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Re: Front damper knocking
Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 12:18 am
by taupe
BMC
No more difficult than drilling and tapping larger as you have suggested

Re: Front damper knocking
Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 9:58 am
by bmcecosse
I suggest a whole lot more difficult, I think the plate is too thin - but bon chance!

Re: Front damper knocking
Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 10:38 am
by taupe
BMC
Why more difficult?
The plate is 5/16" thick plus 3 x16 SWG panel layers in front ie 1/2" overall.
The standard insert is 1.5D or 15/32" which would fit ok- a 1D insert is exactly 5/16" and would fit perfectly in the original plate thread length.
Rolls Royce fitted inserts as standard in their engines because of their superior finish, strength and reliability.

Re: Front damper knocking
Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 4:44 pm
by bmcecosse
You really only have the plate thickness - you can't count on the steel panels doing anything. But - carry on! It's not what I would be doing - but each to their own.
Re: Front damper knocking
Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 5:37 pm
by MarkyB
My guess is that you will need to remove the shock absorber to make a nice job of the thread insert.
Drilling and tapping might require this too, but could be done with everything in situ.
Re: Front damper knocking
Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 6:02 pm
by Dryad
I ordered the 'kit' before this debate kicked off so it's too late to to change my mind (nearly £30 with postage and VAT!!!). Yes, I know you can buy the rethreads separately, but to be honest I can't be a*#ed to look for and buy the right sized tap etc. so I've done it the lazy and expensive way.

Anyway, I've not done this before but I feel it will work, speaking as someone with 30 years+ working on cars. I will be taking the damper off to do this as I want to get it right first time, and will let you know how it goes.
Re: Front damper knocking
Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 6:16 pm
by simmitc
If the kit doesn't work, another way is to go in through the inner wing - cut a flap over the end of the cross section and bend it back. You can now get nuts on the end of the bolts (longer bolts may be needed). Do up tight, blob of weld to hold nut in place. Then fold flap back and weld closed - better than going in through the top of the cross section. Good luck with the kit, it sounds OK to me.
Re: Front damper knocking
Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 12:23 pm
by Kevin
I just wonder how much of the knocking was down to the stripped threads on the 2 bolts, something that does not seem to have been mentioned, were there any tab washers fitted ? as this may have been the reason for the bolts being loose and the threads becoming worn.
Re: Front damper knocking
Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 1:57 pm
by Dryad
The damper was tight against the body of the car with no movement there, and yes there were tab washers fitted correctly. The movement was the shaft coming from the damper to the arm, where it moved about 1mm in and out of the damper body. Haven't done the repair yet, hoping to do that tomorrow morning.
Re: Front damper knocking
Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 3:48 pm
by bmcecosse
Ohhh - well, sounds like new damper required.
Re: Front damper knocking
Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 4:01 pm
by Dryad
bmcecosse wrote:Ohhh - well, sounds like new damper required.
I refer the honourable gentleman to the answer I gave earlier...

Re: Front damper knocking
Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 5:42 pm
by bmcecosse
Originally you said 'small amount' - now it's 1 mm !!
Re: Front damper knocking
Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 6:41 pm
by Dryad
1mm IS a small amount! It was an estimate anyway, and probably nearer 0.792mm.

Re: Front damper knocking
Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 7:07 pm
by MarkyB
Context is everything, 1mm either way on clutch free play is irrelevant, on something as highly engineered as a shock absorber, it's life and death.
"Small amount" is a relative term.
Re: Front damper knocking
Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 9:40 pm
by bmcecosse
I had assumed only a very small iue negligible movement. 1 mm is a LOT! Definitely scrap.
Re: Front damper knocking
Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 10:20 pm
by Dryad
I know it was dangerous, which is why I replaced it.

Seriously though, when I said 1mm I didn't mean I had measured it, just that there was a very small amount of backwards/forwards movement - enough to make a knocking noise when going over bumps. So what do they do to 'refurbished' a unit then? Surely it's more than just refilling it and painting it?
Re: Front damper knocking
Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 10:25 pm
by bmcecosse
You would hope so......... but - who knows ! I would expect new seals to be fitted and a good clean out - but if the bearings/bushings are gone, I suspect it goes in the bin - at least it should! Is anyone making new lever arm dampers these days - or is there a finite supply of new-old-stock - and then that's it ???

Re: Front damper knocking
Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 10:48 pm
by Dryad
The one I bought looked and felt like new, and works perfectly, so it's clearly a thorough job. Back in the eighties I used to have a Hillman Avenger and bought a "reconditioned" distributor, I was suspicious when I saw it had been crudely painted with silver paint but decided to give it a go. It turned out to be worse than the knackered one it was supposed to replace! Got my money back though.
Re: Front damper knocking
Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 10:52 pm
by bmcecosse
Well done getting a 'new' one - did DSN find it for you ?
Re: Front damper knocking
Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 11:06 pm
by Dryad
It was from Bull Motif, and advertised as "fully reconditioned". I'm very pleased with it but I was charged £20+vat surcharge until they receive my old one. I have sent it but not yet received my £20 back. Cost me £7 to post 2nd class.