Morris Minor Owners Club

Yes think so it looks ok bought it from Bull motif so I assume its correct !! will check in morning

Well - I think there are some long and some short neck rads out there.

Kevin wrote:As mentined the correct water level is an 1" or so below the bottom of the radiator neck to allow for expansion, if possible what about taking a photo of the level and popping it up on here then we can comment if its normal or not and put your mind at rest.

Hi

Previously I have filled my radiator to the bottom of the neck. I now gather this is incorrect. When I have done so in a short time ( a day or so) i'm left with this, hopefully you can make it out.



On another subject, I have been out in my traveller tonight in the rain, when I have jst checked the radiator I noticed a drip that appears to be coming from the thing (sorry don't know what it is called) that the fan belt is attached to. It looks like water.

Any Idea what I need to do.



Thanks for your help
Andy

Yes thats the seal gone on your water pump.

Ive just replaced the one on her mini, leaking at exactly that point.

Theyre not too expensive and much easier to get at on the Minor

Do I just need this
http://www.morrisminorspares.net/shop_item.php?ID=1766 or do I also need
http://www.morrisminorspares.net/shop_item.php?ID=1765

How easy is it to fit ?

Cheers
Andy

Bully links never work - but yes you need a new pump - and a gasket and a new bypass hose. DO NOT get the convoluted rubber one - get a solid rubber tube. It's only a 30 minute job.

bmcecosse wrote:Bully links never work - but yes you need a new pump - and a gasket and a new bypass hose. DO NOT get the convoluted rubber one - get a solid rubber tube. It's only a 30 minute job.

Any idea where I can get the bypass hose from Bull don't seem to sell them.

Thanks

DSN have it (and the other parts) - only £1:50. http://www.dsnclassics.co.uk/acatalog/D ... ion_7.html
In general - DSN's prices are very good - always worth checking if they have the part you need.

Hi

Thanks very much for that.

Sorry to be a pain, but I don't really know what I am doing !!

Is this everything I need

WET7014H £1.50 ( Excl. VAT )
Bypass Hose - rigid (includes clips)

WET7006 £12.25 ( Excl. VAT )
Water Pump - late 948/1098 (includes gasket)

I have a 1970 Traveller.

Cheers
Andy

I have a water loss with my 1275. On short runs it finds its way into the sump oil and on a long run it is all boiled off and the sump oil is clear again. I will sort the problem out when I rebuild the engine

Andy

Those bits should do you.

When you fit the gasket, carefully scrape clean the block where the pump bolts on and use a smear of gasket sealant such as blue Hylomar.

Regards

Taupe

Yes - these are the parts!

Water in the oil is really really bad news.........Best sorted out right away - it will only get (much) worse if ignored......

use a smear of gasket sealant such as blue Hylomar.

On one side, and a smear of grease on the other works very well.
Nothing was used originally, there was no time, and it isn't really needed for the gasket to seal.
However if, or when, the joint needs to be split again people who stick the gasket to both sides curse themselves, or get cursed as DPOs (dozy previous owners) as the gasket is always ruined and both surfaces need plenty of scraping to get them ready again.

No treatment at all results in pot luck, the gasket will stick to one surface in one place, and somewhere else in another place.
At least it doesn't take much scraping to remove.

When you replace that bolt, that was such a pain to get out will you put a dab of grease or Copperslip on the thread?

I put my rockerbox on using this method and don't expect to have to replace it ever, as long as I take a little care when I remove it.

The drip from my water pump is quite fast (so much so that the radiator is now drained).

If I was to fill up the radiator with water (and just water) set off straight away would I be able to get three miles in the car.

Cheers
Andy

Of course!

grumpydad wrote:how ?

Magic ! No seriously, provided overflow pipe is immersed in overflow reservoir as the rad cools the contraction of fluid will tend to pull back any water up the overflow pipe. Basic physics.

I dont know if any one has had this problem ,with 1275 m g engines.
they had brass plugs in the cyl heads because the cylinder bores came out to
close to water holes in the head.The plugs would get pushed up in the head by
the gasket.Then would leak into cyl'.

They don't get pushed up by the gasket! But - it is not unknown for the plugs to come out/go loose. Especially if the engine gets a 'roasting' with no water in the head.........

Just had a horrible thought.

I've bought the water pump but my traveller doesn't have the original engine. I don't know what sort it is.

Is the pump likely to fit.

Cheers
Andy

It should fit, only the Series 11 A Series w/pump was different, just check if you need a by pass hose and if the pump has one.
Maybe the brass plug is the problem with mine. I have never had the head off.