Morris Minor Owners Club

And there will be a big gap between the bellhousing and the crossmember - BUT - I don't see how the gearbox crossmember could ever possibly be fitted if this was the case! And - as mentioned above - the fan will be buried in the radiator!!

Rad may not be in the car yet - Have you fully built up everything since the engine swap? Was there any issues in getting anything else to line up?

Personally, if the car's had *lots* of work I'd start by checking the simple things - like the engine mounts, etc, make sure that you're not missing something obvious - if it's still not fitting before modifying things I'd be looking at checking the alignment against the alignment chart - lots of measuring, but if your car has ended up with the wrong structure, it'd be better to know now...

Wow, away for a day and I am flooded with things to check. I will do some measurements as the car has been in for some welding. I will also take some photos of the key bits and post them so you can have a look to see if I have them on the right way. I am pretty sure they are OK but as this is my first Moggie rebuild you never know.

I will spend some time on the car tonight and tomorow and get back to you. Thanks again for the suggestions, it's good to know there are loads of helpful people around when you are doing these sort of things by yourself.

It's a pity they don't give any lengthwise measurements in that 'alignment diagram' - just cross dimensions!

Don't wory mate - we'll figure it out one way or another. I have an original unwelded car so I car always take measurements from mine for you of critical areas.....

A picture of the problem, I will post a picture of the gearbox & engine mounts as well.[frame][/frame]

Engine mount[frame][/frame]

Gearbox mount[frame][/frame]

sorry gearbox mount this time[frame][/frame]

Finally the distance back of engine to bulkhead[frame][/frame]

I have attached the measurements for the various fixed alignment points posted earlier in the thread.

The measurements are as accurate as I can get them, hopefully within 1 mm. All points plum bob marked from the points on the car to a flat floor below then measured.

It looks a little off square, but not sure it explains the large distance between the end of the gearbox and the diff flange.

The original car had two new front spring hangers welded in when I got the car. The front had a new engine tie plate as well as new inner wings (ALL 4). The drivers side floor pan was also completely replaced.

Any suggestions appreciated.[frame][/frame]

The engine/bulkhead gap looks about right - the front engine mounts look ok - there is a problem with that gearbox mount, but doesn't explain the problem with the shaft. What's the wheel base on each side of the car - from centre of the front hub back to the centre of the half-shaft? As far as i can see - it should be 86".

The distance on mine is exactly 86 inches as well.

What was the trouble with the gearbox mounting by the way?

Looks like it's sitting off centre ? Can these be swapped side to side - would this help any ? 86 sounds fine - so I guess nothing wrong with back axle location. What happens if you put trolley jack under the diff -and take the weight of the car on the suspension - does it seem to fit better then ?

Just some quick comments from your pictures.

I may be wrong but isnt the front backplate to the timing chain on backwards, shouldnt the nuts that hold the backplate to the engine towers be at the back and annoying inaccessable, instead of at the front. That would give you around 3/4" ish

Also I think the brackets for the gearbox within then gearboxes cross member should be swopped from each side as BMC suggests and I think they're currently upside down as well.

Saying all your bulkhead to head distance looks about right.

Steve B

Sorry just been to check mine the backplate is the right way around, You cant get it wrong of course the dynamos pedestal and the camshafts thrust plate all dictakes that it can only go one way. I fairly sure the gearboxes brackets are wrong though. Sorry for any confusion on the backplate.

Pikey, just popping out to swap the gbox mountings over, funily enough I don't have a picture of how they should fit. The Haynes manual has a picture of a single unit that does both sides, rather than two separate ones.

Back into the depths!!!

So- Engine is in right sort of place judging by water valve/battery tray clearance. Wheelbase is correct. Propshaft length is correct. Gearbox is an unmoveable feast. Is there any way the diff could have come from a diff-erent application and is shorter from prop flange to axle mating flange? Surely can't be any other variable left!

Is there definitely only one length of propshaft available, not possible that Declan has got a-same-length-as-yours prop, but in a different assembly?

Sorry I havent got a picture either, and they're fairly impossible to take a photo of now Ive got the cabs floor screwed down.

Try swoping them side to side and orienate them in the x-member so that they look like a "n" in cross section and not "u" if you get my meaning. The photo you showed earlier they look like "u".

Im not sure that it'll let the gearbox fall rearwards, but I believe that it will lower the gearbox in the X-member a bit and perhaps thats all the propshaft needs.

Hi guys, well swapped over the gbox mounting brackets, even tried lifting the car under the diff.... still no luck.

The diff has been replaced, but as I have just locked up the barn, I will whip out my trusty tape measure tomorrow and do some more measurements on the length of the diff shaft to flange.

I am pretty sure the engine and gearbox is a close to where it should be and looking at the clutch bearing shaft may be a little too far back, so the problem is pointing towards the back of the car, may be I should reverse it into a wall to shorten it, rather than drive forwards as I originally thought!!