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Re: Time To Change Engine

Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 8:48 pm
by hotrodder13
right thanks. just have to get the gauge now, whats the best gauge electric or capillary.

Re: Time To Change Engine

Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 9:07 pm
by bmcecosse
Capillary! Better by FAR!

Re: Time To Change Engine

Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 9:09 pm
by hotrodder13
thanks im watchin a couple now. gona get a water temp gauge as well hopefully. :D

Re: Time To Change Engine

Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 9:17 pm
by bmcecosse
Good idea -again capillary is best - but need to be SURE the tube isn't burst - otherwise useless.

Re: Time To Change Engine

Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 9:20 pm
by hotrodder13
just asked the guy selling it and he said he tested it by puttin the end of it in a cup of boiling water and the needle moved. so i think i will be bidding thanks for you help :D

Re: Time To Change Engine

Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 9:22 pm
by bmcecosse
Should be ok - good luck.

Re: Time To Change Engine

Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 10:17 am
by hotrodder13
found out cylinder number 3 i think isnt getting a spark. i took the ht lead off and tryed running, when i take it off there no diffrence unlike the others.. but when i take the spark plug out there is a spark, what could cause this,
thanks tom

Re: Time To Change Engine

Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 10:33 am
by bmcecosse
Bad plug ? Burned valve - or valve gap closed up ?

Re: Time To Change Engine

Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 5:44 pm
by linearaudio
Sounds like a burned valve- compression check will show if it is.

Re: Time To Change Engine

Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2010 8:03 pm
by hotrodder13
just an update psl was right. the head gasket had gone but it not just that. it has made a hole on the block in between the pistons. ive bin told this cant be fixed so i am better putting new engine in.[frame]Image[/frame] you can see the mark on the pik

Re: Time To Change Engine

Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2010 8:27 pm
by rayofleamington
[[oops - didn't notice page 2 of the thread!]]

I'm pretty sure someone already said head gasket...
That would explain low power, knocking and running very rough.

Crankshaft wear i.e. a damaged big end wouldn't make it run on 2 cylinders - unless the crank is broken!

Re: Time To Change Engine

Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2010 9:05 pm
by bmcecosse
Well - that 'hole in the block' was either there before - or you ran the car on two cylinders for more than a couple of minutes! It can be fixed - but will involve a complete strip down - and then skimming a few thou off the top of the block. If the pistons then stick up (but they won't unless you take off more than ~ 20 thou) - then they too would need a slight skim to keep them at best flush with the block. The head will need skimming too! New engine time - meantime!!

Re: Time To Change Engine

Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2010 9:11 pm
by hotrodder13
almost got all the parts for it. just need the bends for the manifold and a dizzy cap and a crank rear oil seal. :) :)

would this be the right cap http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/pro ... 33864d3bf5
thank tom

Re: Time To Change Engine

Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2010 9:29 pm
by bmcecosse
Should be! The crank doesn't have a 'rear oil seal' - it's just the same scroll/labyrinth arrangement as other A series - and relies on good crankcase ventilation to work properly.

Re: Time To Change Engine

Posted: Thu Feb 11, 2010 7:57 pm
by hotrodder13
sorted the cap. just finished stripping the 1098 so its easier to come out, :D