Morris Minor Owners Club

I don't see how Cams idea of a carb type butterfly valve would
accomplish what is needed, it would merely shut off the incoming
fresh air.

Yes, that's what the discussion was centered around at the time. Obviously it would only shut off the incoming air.

Sorry if I mislead you to a 'magic solution' but folks were talking about pulling the end of the pipe off the heater in the cab to allow the recirculation.

My 'solution' was only really to prevent Ray shoving his socks down the pipe! something which I think we should all try to avoid

whats going on, what second type of heater? i thought there was only a round type, a square type, and no heater like in my side valve.

Yes, Brixton! what's this 3rd heater??? if this heater can perform both functions then why not fit this one??

My round heater has a fresh-air flap that I can shut off to return the heater to recirculate, or open, to draw (damp, oily) air from within the crossmember...

Is this arrangement what you meant, Willie?

I've had 3 types of heater in Minors....
The oldest one was an original 50'2 'tudor' type heater which is round and only takes internal air (I don't know if it was factory fitted). Then there's the early 60's heater with the air control flap, then the late 1000 heater with the pipe from the front panel.

Come on BRIXTON, with your knowlege you didn't know
that the first round type of heater was recirculatory only,whereas
the 2nd type had the option of a fresh air inlet which was not
carried on to the last type. Your pulling my leg. From what I've
seen you have an example of all three in your collection.

It seems to me that the biggest obstacle to you handy chaps
coming up with a simple 'swop over air vent' is that the original
fitting is tubular. This complicates making a flap valve which
uncovers one inlet whilst closing the other at the same time.
BUT if the valve unit was housed in a RECTANGULAR section pipe
it would be simple to fit a flap valve which merely swung through
90 degrees and performed the change from 'fresh' to 'recirculate'
in doing so. Come on Ray or Brixton you still have access to
well equipped workshops.

I thought that the first/second heater (Smiths??) was the same, just that some cars had the fresh-air attatchment added. It's a bolt-on accessory, isn't it?

You can make a circular flappy valve too.....

what sort would a 64 car have?

GARETH.yes, I call your type the 2nd type because to have
the option of fresh air at will was quite a radical advance. IT
is useful to have fresh cold air coming in during the summer
but it is also useful to be able to shut out the exhaust fumes
too. The last type of heater doesn't have this facility,you can
only shut off the fresh air by shutting the heater off completely.

the 3rd type - a square one im gonna make a recurculating valve then.....

Matt..depends on which part of 1964! You will either have
the round heater with a cardboard housing or the latest type
which has two pipes blowing air down through the parcel shelf
on to your feet.

This complicates making a flap valve which
uncovers one inlet whilst closing the other at the same time

Not if you can use something along the lines of my previous post - a carb inlet pipe that has a valve to control the choice of two possible inlets. The VW one certainly does have round intakes.[/code]

I've just recon'd (replaced foam, flushed core & rustproofed) my heater and it is superb. For the 1st time in my life I was actually thinking "Gosh, it's getting hot in here" whilst driving to my parents, just 3 miles away!

Granted, last Friday wasn't the coldest day of the year, and getting the back of the Traveller warmed up takes a bit more effort. I'm off to my garage to find a square box to cut round holes in - this oughta be easy...

Ben

Go on BENJY..let's know how you get on. (I'm not bothering
because I don't have a fresh air inlet pipe) If it gets too hot
in the summer I'll open the quarter light as far as it will go and
get blown out of my seat!!

removing the air inlet pipe and sticking 2 scrunched up carrier bags in the front end is very quick. If it wasn't done in seconds I'd consider making some kind of valve too.

OK, the Mk I is installed. I can't say I noticed any extra heat output, but then it wasn't that cold outside. I can however confirm that the air was all being drawn from the parcel shelf, inside the car.

It's a proper Blue Peter job using a cardboard box (no sticky black plastic though, just Gaffa tape), with no remote lever for altering air flow yet. When I get a little more time, I'll write up some details & post them, there are a couple of points to watch. Now that I've proved the pricipal, I might have a go at making something a little more professional, perhaps using drain pipe / waste pipe fittings?

Ben

perhaps using drain pipe / waste pipe fittings?

I have just replaced the pipes running to the windscreen vents with 38mm corrugated plastic pipe from a garden centre/DIY place. This stuff comes in different diameters, by the half metre and you can usually find it in the garden pond area. I looked at the plumbing areas first and the stock was very expensive.
Hope that helps.

My final comments on fitting the later type heater to my '57
convertible. Today is pretty cold in London, wind chill factor
of about minus 3, so I took it for a test run. Oh joy, with a unit
which has been treated with kettle descaler, had all the old
foam seals replaced, had the radiator matrix defluffed, with
an 82 degree thermostat, and NO fresh air intake it was very
good and quite capable of making my feet 'cook'. I do not
think that it would have been half as good with a fresh air
pipe Connected, as the makers intended. As this is on a
convertible I would expect even better results on a tin top.

On the subject of heaters.... I've put a sock in it.... & it works! Thanks........... BUT

When the car is stationaty & idling with the heater fan running we very quickly get zero heat. Rev it a bit for 20 seconds or so or start driving again & it all comes back.

There's plenty of fluid in there although I've got a new water pump ready to fit as I think the gland seal has gone.
Is it possible that the pump is getting insufficient pressure up to move the water through the system at idle??

Is it possible that the pump is getting insufficient pressure up to move the water through the system at idle??

Yes! Rare but can happen 2 ways:
1 - corrosion destroys the blades
2 - frozen water jacket blades ripped off
Both mean the car was left without antifreeze (poor servicing). A pump with no blades will still pump water when higher revs, but the heater will be poor and next to nothing at low revs.

So it looks like that disconnecting the fresh air pipe makes a lot of difference then, has anyone else tried as mine is off road at the minute.