Morris Minor Owners Club

Ian - STOP !!!!
The tank may be empty but the fumes last for ages and will still explode - I'm being serious !!!!
I would not recommend geting heat anywhere near a tank that hasn't been washed out - leave it to the pro's. I have heard that running an exhaust pipe into the tank will help but I've not tried it. Use chemical metal or adhesive sealer but NOT solder.....

Have had an airline blowing for awhile no smell of any petrol. i work on cars for a living so know risks of petrol fumes more explosive than liquid petrol

ian.mcdougall wrote:will be attempting to solder

Will this be strong enough? Why I ask is I have a very cool set of 1/2 gallon tins which my grandfather collected, painted & labelled. Anyways; the one marked petrol got dropped & dinged. I straighten it out but ripped the skin. I managed to solder it ok, and it appears to hold water ok. I'm hesitant to use it for petrol. Thus the question. Will be interested in seeing how you go.
PS: Sorry for hi-jackking the thread.

-GRant

Is it worth all the trouble rather than dropping another tank in?

Have blown all my spare MM money on some new door cards, quarter panel trims, front seat covers and door apeture seals so no spare money for a while unfortunately, so have to go the repair route this time

Hello all,

the suggested route of welding after washing out or using exhaust gas to purge the tank is rather hit and miss, simply fill it with water with the damaged area to the top, and it will weld with no chance of an explosion, as the tank is full of a very good heat sink and no air.

I have gas welded a few tanks in my time with that method.

Alec
Alec

Yes - i agree - tank should be 90 % filled with water - that's what i did. the 'exhaust gas' method sounds very dodgy to me !!
But surely a new tank is v much more important than door cards etc - you need to prioritise more carefully I think !!

bmcecosse
If I had the forsight to know that the tank would start leaking one and a half weeks after receiving the trim for the car of course I would have prioritised the purchase of a new tank instead of prioritising the trim, but then if I had the forsight i would buy a lottery ticket and win the Jackpot and would not have to worry about the prioritising of funds.
forbesq
I would think that old petrol cans were originally soldered together, if they were then the solder should be OK
By the way I have derusted the tank soldered the holes (i hope, am testing with liquid overnight ) and will be painting same tomorrow did not blow myself up but got covered in rusty dust even with a mask on still had a rust coloured tissue when i blew my nose

ian.mcdougall wrote: forbesq
I would think that old petrol cans were originally soldered together,

Cheers for that.

Update on tank
sand blasted/wire wheeled whole tank found tinworn holes soldered them up used rust converter primed and top coated left sitting with petrol inside to check for leaks none after 4 days refitted and car back on the road. Thats not to say will not leak elsewhere
Whilst tank was undergoing repair I noticed end of pick-up pipe has a metal fine mesh filter on yhe end so thought if I had used tank repair kit from Frosts, would the sealer have sealed the filter while sloshing it around the tank worth while anyone thinking about before using product<br><br>
tinworm holes
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another one
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shiny tank bottom<br><br>
shiny tank top
not I may add the item of clothing worn by me in my late teens early twentys