Morris Minor Owners Club

don58van wrote: It can probably be disconnected in summer.

If you plumb it through the return from the heater then it'll get shut off when you turn off the heater.

bmcecosse wrote:Does anyone still make that twin downpipe for RWD cars ? Still available for EW installation in Mini/Metro of course - but not easily adapted to NS engine !

Yes it's still available. http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/pro ... 42e3ca5788

I think with a couple of standard minor downpipes cut from systems and a 2 into joiner its a weekend job if you want to do it on the cheap. But then it's probably worth the money as Vizard rates the twin outlet manifold very highly!

paulhumphries wrote:I've got an aftermarket alloy inlet that I'm going to use on the 1275 A Plus Ital lump after I'd cut the cast iron inlet off the exhaust.
Whats the pro & cons of connecting the water heated aspect of the MG etc inlets ?
I would have though you are then back to square one the same as if the cast iron with hot spot was used

Paul H

Paul the hot spot is caused by the inlet and exhaust manifolds being in one piece cast iron so it causes a very direct heat transfer path just seperating the two halves brakes the transfer path from the exhaust and you know how hot that can get.

minor_hickup wrote:

bmcecosse wrote:Does anyone still make that twin downpipe for RWD cars ? Still available for EW installation in Mini/Metro of course - but not easily adapted to NS engine !

Yes it's still available. http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/pro ... 42e3ca5788

I think with a couple of standard minor downpipes cut from systems and a 2 into joiner its a weekend job if you want to do it on the cheap. But then it's probably worth the money as Vizard rates the twin outlet manifold very highly!

Yep, certainly is do-able! I've never seen the "proper" twin downpipe set before- so please don't think I deliberately copied theirs! Just great minds and all that.

I am re-raising this thread because I have been inspecting the joined manifolds and, notwithstanding the generous help offered in previous posts, I still feel uneasy about the separating them. There seems to be a very small margin for error with the cut to avoid damaging one or both sections.

And, yes, I am determined to separate them so leaving them as they are is not an option.

To explain my circumstances in more detail than my original post, these manifolds are practically unobtainable here. I was only able to get mine with the generous help of a club member in Scotland. By the time freight is paid to Australia, they become a fairly expensive item. For this reason and more, I want to keep each manifold (intake and exhaust) intact.

In view of the above, I am hoping for some further words of advice from a member with experience in separating two the sections. What I am hoping for is an indication of what precise path to follow with the hacksaw/cutting disk and what traps to avoid.

What would be helpful, for example, would be a indication of whether more than one angle of cut (or a curved cut) is needed so as to follow the curvature of the exhaust passage without breaking into the intake passage.

Lastly, if I do break through one of the passageways, is there a practical way of repairing it?

Cheers
Don

Don,
I went about doing this last Friday. As a newbie, I'm by no means an expert but I cannot see it being done cleanly without damaging either the inlet or the outlet or having to do a repair. Look at the photo below and you can clearly see the concave curve of what was or what's left of the inlet. I did not try and save the inlet as I'm taking the advice posted here and fitting the alloy inlet. I can however understand your problem being so far away and sourcing parts.
FYI
I used an angle grinder and a 1mm stainless steel cutting disc which fairly eats through it. It took approx. half an hour in all as I made several angled cuts to avoid damaging the outlet and just getting there bit by bit. I don't think a hacksaw is the best tool for the job but I didn't try it. Just as I had finished it started to rain so I had to run for cover before I could clean up-only to find the patio covered in rust the next morning. The domestic authorities not being impressed. I should have separated it on the grass and I would have had free fertilizer. I don't think you'll have the rain problem in Oz. Sorry I can't offer more advice.
Declan
(DEC 1964H /formerly HMP 960B) <br><br>

Hmmm. Confirms what I thought. It appears to be close enough to impossible to separate them without sacrificing one.

Thank you Declan for showing me how to avoid sacrificing both! Very useful indeed.

Has anyone actually succeeded in preserving both?

Cheers
Don

Very difficult to save both halves. Maybe you could get an X-ray taken - and from that decide a cut-line ? Also relatively easy to make your own inlet manifold - so if in doubt - save the exhaust!

I split mine with a hacksaw (took about an hour) and only *just* broke through into the inlet!

I patched up the hole in the inlet with a piece of thin brass sheet on the outside and some "chemical metal" on the inside, and it's done going on for 20,000 miles like that.

I tried very hard some years back, and could not realistically preserve both! The exhaust is the one NOT to sacrifice! What would be the freight charge on an ally inlet manifold from UK? Surely one of the good sorts on here could source a reasonable inlet for you?

Plenty of alloy inlets about - for the Mini. Surely you can get one without paying silly freight charges ? Or - make one ! A simple Y shape of two steel tubes does fine !

linearaudio wrote:I tried very hard some years back, and could not realistically preserve both! The exhaust is the one NOT to sacrifice! What would be the freight charge on an ally inlet manifold from UK? Surely one of the good sorts on here could source a reasonable inlet for you?

Don has sourced an inlet manifold and as others have said take of the inlet in stages if need be and then clean the remainder up nice and neatly.

bmcecosse wrote:Plenty of alloy inlets about - for the Mini. Surely you can get one without paying silly freight charges ? Or - make one ! A simple Y shape of two steel tubes does fine !

As Don said before these items cost serious money down under, and a question are you sure your suggested method is correct as a lot of work goes into getting the flow right on manifolds and in Vizzards book there are mentioned the designs that done work with the best being Oselli & Howley neither of which is a tubular Y design.

The reason Wizard doesn't 'like' the Y design - is it won't fit a Mini - but it will fit a Minor! Alternative is simple bent U of pipe - with inlet flange welded on the middle at suitable angle. These ideas not worth considering of course unless NO OTHER manifold is available off the shelf!

All

Thanks again for your contributions.

I have spared you the detail up to now, but let me give you additional context to clarify what I am doing and why. The current status of my 68 Austin Minor van (I also have a 58 van, which explains my name on this messageboard). I acquired the bodywork and engine in pieces. In the rebuild, I want to keep the vehicle true to the original. I do, however, want to make some improvements to performance and safety where the visual impact is reasonably subtle. So what I have in mind for the engine is a 940 head (thanks Jeff), improved (but factory 'standard looking') intake and exhaust manifolds and a 1.5 SU (probably a HS4).

Kevin has kindly helped to to find a metro alloy inlet manifold (and BMC also contributed some info--thanks to you too BMC), but I nevertheless want to keep the inlet part of the Ital combination functional if possible. Then, as well as the improved exhaust system, I would have a cast iron inlet manifold that is known to contribute to improved performance and is a genuine factory component--both properties that I value highly for the type of rebuild I am doing on my Austin van. If and how I ultimately use it is another matter. If I decide not to keep it, there would be others here in Oz eager to use it. I just don't want to waste it, if, with a bit of effort, research and planning it can be saved.

Intake manifolds for A series motors are plentiful here. What we don't have is the later, better performing factory ones. This of course is because the BL cars so equipped never came to Oz.

So. Returning to the purpose of this thread, I think we have established that it is unlikely that I can preserve both parts of the combined manifold fully intact. The best I can hope for is that the intake manifold will be usable with some patching. In separating them, I need to err on the side of protecting the exhaust manifold.

Once again, thanks to all who have contributed.

I'll let you know how I go with the 'surgery' on the manifold. I'm not expecting any miracles.

Cheers
Don

Hi Don if you intend using an HS4 (1 1/2") to keep things looking more original that opens up another option as the original ital combined manifold is designed for an HIF44 (1 3/4") but the mini 998cc combined cast iron manifold is made for the HS4.
So if you got hold of one of those and cut it to keep the inlet half this would then give you the effect you want, I did a similar thing and seperated the 2 halves from 2 manifolds a few years ago and cleaned up the areas on a bench grinder to keep things looking smoother and after a bit of use it discoloured to normal and it was only apparent on close inspection that I had seperate cast iron inlet & exhaust manifolds.

The reason Wizard doesn't 'like' the Y design - is it won't fit a Mini - but it will fit a Minor! Alternative is simple bent U of pipe - with inlet flange welded on the middle at suitable angle. These ideas not worth considering of course unless NO OTHER manifold is available off the shelf!

My point is Roy its a waste of time even suggesting this as an option when as far as I am aware none of us on here have a flow bench to try and build such a manifold even the likes of Janspeed who did one 40 odd years ago have not produced one for many years.

Kevin

I am aware that the Ital and Metro alloy intake manifolds are not designed to accept the HS4 type mounting. I was assuming that it would be simple enough to adapt the mounting for the HS4. Am I mistaken in thinking this? I haven't had the opportunity to get these components together to see what would be involved.

I agree that the 998 intake manifold would look more 'standard' but its airflow performance probably is too.

Cheers
Don

Ok Don sorry if I have confused things a little there will be no problem fitting the HS4 instsead of the HIF as it has 2 diagonal stud fitting against the HIF's 4 its the other way round that causes problems due to the inlet having a smaller hole than the output of the carb and the extra studs required.
I will have to see if I have any data that quotes the difference between the alloy inlet and the cast iron one but it will still be better than the standard Minor ones as its designed for an HS4 carb.

The MG Metro inlet manifold is WAY better than the cast iron section you may cut off the combined unit. Just paint them both - and no-one will know it's alloy!. kevin - the simple Y shaped inlet manifold is very well known - it has excellent flow characteristics - since there is little or no 'bend' in the inlet path to either port - it's just not practical on a Mini! But was used extensively on Formula 3 etc cars that used the A series engine and had to have a single inlet through a fixed size venturi! Simple to make too - but in this case, since 'originality' is wanted - it would obviously be non-standard looking!