I`VE GONE AND BROKE IT

Post by **alex_holden** » Thu Nov 06, 2008 9:48 am

MoggyTech wrote:Oh er misses, steady now.

Is that what you say to your glamorous assistant when she's helping you to get it up (the gearbox, that is)?

Post by **Shawn** » Thu Nov 06, 2008 11:50 am

I 've just done my first gearbox only swap in the last few weeks. Working from inside the car, I found that it wasn't too bad re-fitting the box if you lowered it in from the inside, rather than lifting it up from underneath.

It still wasn't a plesant job, but I think I'd do it the same way again, rather than disturb the front panels.

Post by **mike.perry** » Thu Nov 06, 2008 2:31 pm

I'm definately in favour of separating the engine and gearbox and lifting the box out from inside the car using a jack under the back of the engine to adjust the tilt and another to support the gearbox. As long as the gearbox cross member is removed there is plenty of room and no need to get under the car althougth I do have the pit if necessary. The awkward bit is, once the engine is tilted back, twisting the gearbox to clear the steering rack without getting the clutch linkage caught up. This is more difficult on the 1275 as the head extends further back and so will not tilt so far before it catches the bulkhead. Refitting the gearbox is a case of sliding the shaft into the clutch with the box twisted 90 deg., turning it upright and adjusting the engine and gearbox tilt until it slides forward into place, sometimes easier said than done.
To lift the engine out I have 3 scaffold poles which I lash together then strap a chain lift to the tripod.
You said something about adjusting the steering rack. I wasn't aware that there was any adjustment in the rack, just lubrication, tracking and replacing damaged gaiters.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Nov 06, 2008 4:21 pm

The track rods can be adjusted - and the 'damper' pad can be adjusted by reducing/adding shims.

linearaudio · Post by **linearaudio** » Thu Nov 06, 2008 9:09 pm

Mr Ecosse, regarding your novel (and excellent) use for a redundant swing frame- I've heard you carry all kinds of tools in your Moggy, but keeping an engine hoist in it? How seriously do you take your roadside breakdowns??

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Nov 06, 2008 9:13 pm

Ah the hoist is only loaded by prior notification - to assist others! But I did change my Mini engine with it - to the considerable amusement of my neighbours' children (and some of the parents)!

linearaudio · Post by **linearaudio** » Thu Nov 06, 2008 9:31 pm

I'm eyeing up the swing in the garden right now... What am I going to tell my 10 year olddaughter, though!!

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Nov 06, 2008 9:36 pm

It's still perfectly useable as a swing! The wide tube I fit to straddle the car is just a slide fit -the original tube can be installed in minutes!

Post by **pegasus** » Fri Nov 07, 2008 6:41 pm

Hi all
Well the gearbox is now swapped, i didn`t have much time yesterday so i just removed the starter and the floor panel. It was then i noticed just how much play there was in the pedal bushes. So i got some new bushes this morning, and then my dad came over to give a hand. First thing we noticed is that the tensioned cable that is supposed to be there hasn`t for a long time. When the box was out we removed the clutch as i had a new one to fit (the clutch had been very fierce and bit low with no adjustment left). The clutch was on the rivets, but the pressure plate had a large black area to it. When we looked at the flywheel it had the same black mark on it in exactly the same place, and the starter ring had a number of teeth missing so all that got replaced too. Everything is now back in i`ve just got to fit the linkage, prop and then replace the floor panel and hopefully we`ll be running nice and smooth again.
As for the steering rack i didn`t do any adjustments as when i jacked up the front wheels i couldn`t feel any play so the rattling noise when i hit a bump must be from somewhere else.
Mark

Post by **PSL184** » Fri Nov 07, 2008 7:32 pm

Mark, the rattling noise when you hit a bump will prob be trunions... Mine do a similar thing and I feel its their way of telling me to get the grease gun out !!!! The steel cable you mentioned is mostly broken or missing as its only there to stop evrything flying forward in a front end collision, so not required for normal daily driving

Post by **pegasus** » Fri Nov 07, 2008 7:46 pm

Hi
I packed the trunnions with grease a few weeks ago and it didnt help, it may be time to replace the trunnion bushes though. I can`t find any play in anything so i`me betting on a bush.

Post by **PSL184** » Fri Nov 07, 2008 8:57 pm

Did you check for play in the onions when the wheels were on the ground? The don't wobble if the wheels are jacked up... Just a thought

Post by **bmcecosse** » Fri Nov 07, 2008 9:08 pm

The steering rack WILL rattle if it's needing adjusted - but try adding some EP90 or grease to it - may quieten it down some.

Post by **pegasus** » Fri Nov 07, 2008 9:52 pm

I didn`t check the trunnions while it was on the ground i will do that when i get it off the ramps, Thanks for the tip. I will also top up the rack with ep90 i have some of that left, again thanks.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Fri Nov 07, 2008 9:56 pm

The later Mini racks - exactly the same design - were specified for grease rather than oil. Grease is likely to be better at making it stop rattling!

Post by **pegasus** » Tue Nov 11, 2008 7:21 pm

Right guys, the car is finished but i have a problem. The gearbox is nice and not as sloppy as the old one, i fitted the clutch from my recon engine that had done approx 1500 miles. I also fitted the flywheel from the same engine as the old flywheel was bad.
So i adjusted the clutch, started the car and it went into gear great, moved forward a little pressed the clutch and it started screaming. Released the clutch and it stopped, pressed the clutch again all was quiet, moved the car pressed the clutch and it was screaming again. Now when its like this i cannot engage 1st 2nd or reverse. I took it around the block a couple of times and the screaming has now stopped but it crunches the gears when changing down from 3rd to 2nd, changing up is fine. I have checked the adjustments on the clutch and that is ok. I am hoping i havent got a bad clutch, any ideas anyone??
All the best
Mark

Post by **bmcecosse** » Tue Nov 11, 2008 7:30 pm

Crunch from 3rd to 2nd is very normal - indicates worn syncromesh in the box! Best learn to double-de-clutch, or just DON'T change down 3rd to 2nd while on the move!

Post by **pegasus** » Tue Nov 11, 2008 7:43 pm

Hi
I tried the double de clutch and it still crunched but if i sort of feel the gear in at a low speed i can sometimes get it to go in, going up the box is now ok, and it used to judder in reverse that has now gone too.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Tue Nov 11, 2008 7:48 pm

Maybe the clutch is not clearing properly - but I do fear it's well worn syncro. As long as it's not jumping out (that's the next stage of wear) you should be able to live with it.

Post by **pegasus** » Tue Nov 11, 2008 7:53 pm

No its not jumping out of gear thats ok, so i think i will have to learn how to rebuild a gearbox, i have the old one to practice with.
Thanks for the info.
Mark