Morris Minor Owners Club

i can tell you that it is an ital 1.3 engine so you should be able to get the proper dipstick and tube

good evening Gentlemen
thank you so much for all your words of wisdom.
I dropped the timing case vent from the carb to below the engine, blocked off the carb hole and changed the rocker cover cap for one with wire in it.
we have been out for the afternoon and in the course of approx 10 miles it has emptied the crank case out of the dipstick hole.
so next question must be................................. is it a huge job to re ring the pistons and do you think it will it need reboring? because that (to me) now seems to be the problem as it never happened before the new head went on.
I don't have access to a compression test at the moment, so do you think an engine flush is worth doing under the circumstances and is engine flush, an oil with cleaner in it?
as an after thought, as i said this has been since we changed the head for what I believe is a midget head with double valve springs.
the oil leak problem has been a gradually increasing problem.
i must say i feel such a cluts having to ask all these questions after having run A & B series engines as a lad about *** years ago
i have a 1300 in my (the "hay bale") pick up, would you recommend just swapping it over while i do the work required?
i'd just like to add how great it is to has access to you all for help "and understanding" I am deeply indebted to you all!
Thank you all again so much
Norm

I agree its probably excess crankcase pressure but have you checked your dipstick tube as mogwai suggests, both of my engines have a short plastic tube which seals the dipstick - did yours have one thats snapped off? If you had one you should be able to see a ring of plastic in the hole when you take out the dipstick.

New ones are available from Bull Motif but there is no image on their web lists.

I suspect there is a problem with the head.
Was it your own head or an exchange?
If there wasn't a problem before and there is now, which there is.
Then the head has to be prime suspect.
I'd put the breather back as before and take it back to the garage that did the head.

My Ital engine doesnt have a plastic tube, and there isnt a problem

No mine neither Matt.

Is there plenty of oil getting up to the head? Wandering if the oil supply to the head is obstructed. To empty the sump so quick something is really amiss. Perhaps whip the head back off and go over everything carefully.

Rod

I know it sounds obvious but your not overfilling it with oil?

Hey, gang, I have a Midget 1275 with the timing case breather that goes into the carbs, plus there is tube from the rocker cover...should that just "T" into the timing cover hose or do I need some sort of PCV valve there? Does it go somewhere else? Thanks.

Vents from timing cover usually go to carb or manifold to be "burnt" away in combustion.....

Can't see the 'head' causing this problem, other than because it now has good sealing valves where the old head may have been leaking at the valves. When the engine is hot and idling - take the oil filler cap off - is there a plume of smoke and fume ?
You say it's worse with the breather hose not connected to the carb - this is exactly what I would expect - you MUST have a breather (preferably from the rocker cover) connected to the carb - or even directly to the inlet manifold via a 1/8" dia hole - I had to do this with a Mini engine to keep it oil free - it worked! It is quite possible that the breather 'can' on the timing cover is partially choked - it's a bit of a pain to take the cover off, but it may be worth doing so you can clear the breather can out and make sure it's able to pass fume !
You ask about re-ringing, but this is rarely worthwhile - the piston ring grooves are usually worn and/or broken. If you can't fix it by clearing/adding more breathers - you had better budget for a rebore and new pistons.

i must admit i haven't checked the amount of oil getting up to the head, an no i havent been over filling it only putting to bl***y much in cos it keep throwing it out
theres no oil in it at the moment but i'll check to see if its getting up to the head ok,
re the head i had a friend change it for me so i think i'd better check it myself this time,
it just getting time to do this stuff an earn a living as well
bmcecosse, i did blow down the hose on the timeing can and it felt clear.
last question for the moment, any rough idears on cost of rebore an parts please, its ok im sitting down
good night gentlemen
norm

Rebore cost is likely to be ~ £60 and pistons ~ £120 the set. The 'fun' part is getting the old pistons off the rods and the new ones on - so you may have to pay to get that done ~ £20. But you may find the crank also needs regrinding (£60) and even if it's ok you should put new shells in it anyway (£40). A new oil pump and timing chain are always wise, along with gaskets etc ~ £40.

Just to add my version of costs on an engine that I have recently rebuilt..... Head - £150 (reseat valves and converted to unleaded...), regrind crank £50, big ends and shells £50, pistons £150, rebore £50, oil pump £15, water pump £15, gaskets in stock but £40 is about right. Labour is all my own so thats about £520 ????

PSL184 wrote:Just to add my version of costs on an engine that I have recently rebuilt..... Head - £150 (reseat valves and converted to unleaded...), regrind crank £50, big ends and shells £50, pistons £150, rebore £50, oil pump £15, water pump £15, gaskets in stock but £40 is about right. Labour is all my own so thats about £520 ????

Scary when you add it all up isn't it? Makes a professionally rebuilt engine seem like not such poor value after all...

I agree when you can get exchange recons for about £800. Makes them good value considering.

You miss out on the deep satisfaction derived from driving an engine that you've re-built yourself, though......

Not to mention the blood shed

PSL184 wrote:Not to mention the blood shed

Hehe - oh yes, I always found that dried blood made a pretty good subsitute for engineer's blue, actually!

Without the head - 'my' estimate works out at ~£340 - not so bad really - and an absolute bargain compared to any 'modern' car replacement engine. Perfectly good heads can be picked up for ~£20 or so! And are not critical anyway - since easily changed at any time.

When you had the head swopped by your mate ask him if he checked the wear lip on the bores. I doubt many mechanics don't do this as a matter of course. It seems mighty strange that this problem has only come evident after the head job. If the engine is ok otherwise I would do so more checking before tearing it down. As previously mentioned a compression test is the first option, then If everything is ok then off with its head. If you have the old one put that back on, it's worth a head gasket surely. Having said all that a rebuilt engine is a piece of engineering beauty and will last you many many year

What symptoms did the engine have before the head was done?
Was it wheezy and lacking in power and blowing blue smoke?
If not the head must be suspect.
Maybe it is cracked or some part of the machining wasn't done right causing compression or exhaust gasses to pressurise the sump.
Possibly there is a fault on the head gasket?
Try another head before you start throwing money at sorting it out.