Morris Minor Owners Club

"Owen Burton's Manual" ???? Is it available 'on line' ?
Where then should this washer be placed on the bendix ? Can anyone show a picture/explain in detail what this is about ?
I understand bolts in holes - they go into the water jacket.

bmcecosse wrote: I understand bolts in holes - they go into the water jacket.

Nope.... Still confused

I was sure the arly Spridget engines were just 'in-line' versions of the Cooper S engine - they even had the EN40B crank for a while (very rare) and certainly used the S stype con rods (although slightly lesser quality steel) AEG 625. I think they later changed to a '1300' type crank (although in-line version obviously) with the larger big-ends to cope with it now being lesser quality steel too, and the conrods changed to suit of course. Maybe this was when the tappet chest covers were eliminated - or were they never present in these engines ?

Where then should this washer be placed on the bendix ?

This should explain it.<br><br>

I think you will find that all 1275cc inline engines didnt have the tappet covers

Could well be Kevin - although I thought the first ones really were S blocks with rear oil seal added. Thanks for the drawing re starter -hopefully that won't be necessary.

Yes, thanks Kevin. Useful picture.
1 more Q. Should I retain the electric fuel pump or use the mechanical one.....?

All Spridget 1275 engines had no side tappet covers and retained the same crank dimensions right through. I have heard of EN40B cranks, but never seen one.

The only block change was to the bottom flange where the sumps fits - there is a 'thin' and 'thick' flange version. Otherwise the block, crank, rods and pistons stayed the same. 'S' rods should be fitted to a modified engine.

I thought towards the end they moved to the larger big-end of the '1300' engine. But I bow to your words of wisdom Richard !
As for pump - If you go mechanical you lose the security of the secret pump switch - and you have to crank the engine to bring fuel up for a cold start. However - the mech pumps are generally more reliable, and none of that 'vapourising' problem in cold weather. So - your choice really!

hi i only live down the road from you if you want to borow a mod fly wheel no prob neil

marmite love it or hate it [/b]

Why do you need to put bolts in the redundant mounting holes? Go on, somebody tell us

bigginger wrote:Why do you need to put bolts in the redundant mounting holes? Go on, somebody tell us

well leave them out then

neiltomlinson wrote:hi i only live down the road from you if you want to borow a mod fly wheel no prob neil

Thanks Neil - I'll give you a shout....

aupickup wrote:

bigginger wrote:Why do you need to put bolts in the redundant mounting holes? Go on, somebody tell us

well leave them out then

No, really, is there some reason? I can't think of one, and I don't think any of mine have it. I suspect I'm missing a joke though, as per...

See my comment earlier in the thread - " I understand bolts in holes - they go into the water jacket."
At least one each side is right into the water jacket and needs to be 'plugged' with a bolt!