Morris Minor Owners Club

The new M/C is now in place -this is how I did it.... .

1) Removed front seats, M/C cover plate, gear knob & gaiter, carpets, gearbox cover.
2) Undid the union nut joining the banjo connection & the rear brake pipe (it was steel, but no obvious corrosion). Undid this with ease - perhaps too easily? Was this the cause of the leak?
3) Undid the banjo connection.
4) Undid the nuts and washers holding the two M/C retaining bolts.
5) Levered the torsion bar downwards using a 14 inch crowbar from Wickes, hooking the upper (U shaped) end over the bar & pushed the other end downwards, eventually wedging the lower end against the wheel ramp. I placed some hardboard between the crowbar end and the side of the chassis leg to avoid damage to the metal . Then I just had enough room to withdraw the bolts.
6) Slid the old M/C back and upwards. The pushrod slid out easily, remaining attached to the end of the brake pedal.
7) Cleaned out the brake fluid which had pooled in the bottom of the chassis leg. 10 sheets of kitchen roll did the job nicely.
no8.) Pulled out the (steel) rear brake pipe. Snapped it at the flexible hose end to use a rachet head rather than faff around with a spanner.
9) Slid the new M/C onto the pushrod then inserted into the chassis leg. Torsion bar bent again, bolts slid in and tied up.
10) Partly done up the union nut belonging to the (new copper) rear brake pipe and the banjo bolt. Fitted washer and slid end of banjo bolt through the banjo.
11) Spent about 30 minutes trying to insert the threaded end of the banjo bolt into the hole in the new M/C. Finally managed it by pushing it in with a screwdriver while turning the banjo bolt with a spanner. Very fiddly.
12) Tightened the rear brake pipe union nut into the Banjo nut. Fitted the rubber grommet into the rear end of the chassis leg. Bent new brake pipe, secured it to the floorpan then screwed the union nut at the other end to the flexible hose.

I had to stop then (after 7+ hours) as the light was fading. I'll have to do the bleeding and gearbox cover/carpets another day.

On April 25th Willie posted this excellent advice:

"If you mean the spring on the foot brake pedal you do not have to remove it at all. When you have released the two bolts and undone
the two brake pipe connections the master cylinder will move
backwards and disengage from the pushrod. I take it that you know about 'bending' the torsion bar instead of having to dismantle the
suspension?? (The return spring for the master cylinder is actually
inside it)."

Thats exactly what I did - I didn't mess around with the speedo cable, clutch rod, pedal shaft or the clutch/brake pedals, all of which require removal according to the Autodata manual! Perhaps it was written by masochists who enjoyed dismantling things for no good reason?

Sounds like it

Chris, I am glad my advice was useful but why did you
remove the front seats? Cannot imagine why that is
necessary.

I found it easier if the front seats are removed.

Plus, if you are removing the gearbox cover, then the carpets have to come out, so out come the seats! It may be possible without removing the seats, but access is better if you do.

It may be possible without removing the seats

I did consider trying it, but you would have to contort over the driver's seat and there would be nowhere to put the tools. With the seat removed I could kneel on the ground (cushioned with cardboard) and work in relative comfort. Also I wanted to look as far up the chassis leg as possible to see where the brake fluid went and for evidence of previous waxoyling.

Also the carpet was really filthy and I didn't want to breathe in the dust. To be honest it only took 10 minutes to undo the 2 seats and rip out the carpet, plus another 10 minutes to unscrew the gearbox cover.

the Lockheed cylinders as they are original equipment,

Rofl.
Out of my window here in Leamington I can see the old AP Lockheed site (I used to work there).
Unfortunately it is mainly gone and all that remains is rubble, as AP don't really exist in the UK anymore. A few years ago they sold their trading name to Delphi distribution who can now use AP logo where they see fit.
AP itself moved some business elswhere in the world, and the remaining shoestring of the UK business was sold to a Chinese outfit recently (leaving many people without pensions that they paid 30 years for!! - it's been in the news, but the bastions of Fraud and industry seem to get away scot free)
Donkeys years ago AP hydraulics (Lockheed) moved a lot of the aftermarket machining for the old stuff to joe bloggs sub contracters, so the AP logo on the box, and the actual casting are original but the part isn't really the AP original, but hopefully pretty close. (sorry)

I still bought one myself though and it works wonderfully!

My seals leaked at minus 2° so I was hoping it was just the age of the seals and they had lost their properties, but sadly it had the dreaded pitting (The big boot was damaged, probably speeding up the humidity getting into the assembly).

Chris - Glad you got the hard bits done.
I hope you made sure the boot is fitted nicely..

11) Spent about 30 minutes trying to insert the threaded end of the banjo bolt into the hole in the new M/C. Finally managed it by pushing it in with a screwdriver while turning the banjo bolt with a spanner. Very fiddly.

Sounds very familiar

Yes, I've done that too, and it's not a pleasant job! and just how tight is tight?.............just one more nip.....