Morris Minor Owners Club

Spag wrote:The cutter I have has a parting cut of 12mm, 2 sheets and a gap is a bit different, though if the gap is only a couple of mm, and you crank up the amps, then the jet of hot stuff out the back of the first sheet is still pretty fierce !!

Cool. I suspect if I had one I'd get carried away and chop the whole car in half! ;)

If anyone's interested I'll do some scientific 'gapped sheet' testing at the weekend ???

To be strictly accurate, it should be a sandwich of rust, underseal, a cornflakes packet, mud, hammerite, rust, fibreglass, chicken wire, bathroom sealant, rust, filler, an aluminium road-sign, screwed up newspaper, and rust...

To be strictly accurate, it should be a sandwich of rust, underseal, a cornflakes packet, mud, hammerite, rust, fibreglass, chicken wire, bathroom sealant, rust, filler, an aluminium road-sign, screwed up newspaper, and rust...

Alex,Just a quote

If it doesn't work, you're not hitting it with a big enough hammer.

Oh my, what a horrible mess.....and this thing had an MOT??? Crikey!
I particuarly like the dexion angle over the sills, pure genius that.

Still, i should confess to the odd bit of bodging myself.......the jack went through the floor of my rover today! So what did i do? Well i did exactly what any self respecting rover owner would do, and covered the hole with a bit of ally plate and some self tappers then filler it with roof sealent............i really cant be bothered to start cutting up and welding another car, especially as its 1. Totall rubbish and 2. Will fail its next MOT anyway!

YG

youngun wrote:Oh my, what a horrible mess.....and this thing had an MOT??? Crikey!

Several bits have been badly patched and will take a lot of work to restore properly, but it's relatively solid at the moment and I wouldn't be surprised if it could get through another MOT once I've fixed a few little bits and pieces (and bolted the sill covers back on! ).

The cutter I have has a parting cut of 12mm, 2 sheets and a gap is a bit different, though if the gap is only a couple of mm, and you crank up the amps, then the jet of hot stuff out the back of the first sheet is still pretty fierce !!

Yep ours is rated upto about 16mm (And will cut 20mm plate )

But its the rust in the gap that kills the plasma (I think its cos its non conductive) also it tends to deflect the jet.

The dexion under the sill covers is quite amusing. Does this mean his shelves are held up with boxing panels?

Does a plasma cutter give your arms and neck the same steel impregnated blotch-pattina that you get from angle grinding?

Nope - it'll cut your finger/hand off just as easily though
a

Molten metal oxide sprays quite a way, so a few 'blast shields' can prevent the garage from burning down.

I haven't yet found a cure for the Manic grin and the hysterical giggling when you've just cut through 1 foot of 3/4" (20mm) of steel plate in under 2 mins though

Don't worry Ray. There are a whole new bunch of fun and exciting ways to set light to your self/workshop/car/family or even blind yourself.

Personally I find accidently filling my safety boot with molten metal oxide never fails to enliven my day.

Got her up on the ramps to take a look underneath last night:


Patched crossmember ends:



Horrible patch on the front of the nearside sill:


Here's what happens when you poke at loose underseal:


Overall it doesn't look too disastrous underneath though.

Is it just the angle of the photo, or is one of the crossmember ends welded on squint?

MoggyTech wrote:Is it just the angle of the photo, or is one of the crossmember ends welded on squint?

The second crossmember photo? I think it's a careless patching/reconstruction job after the 'specialist' chopped off the jacking points.

bigginger wrote:Nope - it'll cut your finger/hand off just as easily though
a

Quite the opposite with oxy-acetalene though. You can go through an RSJ with it, but you try cutting through a pizza with it!!

You've tried then?

Quite the opposite with oxy-acetalene though. You can go through an RSJ with it, but you try cutting through a pizza with it!!

So thats why Pizza Hut use those round knify things . I always wondered

Here's the inside of that inner wing bodge. It's lucky the car didn't go up in flames - the carpet is badly scorched because it wasn't removed before welding.


A close-up of the corner where the sill, wheel arch, and inner wing meet up:


I should know better than to lift carpets up!
A rotten-through patch in the floor over the nearside crossmember:


A much worse one on the offside:


Whoops, I seem to have taken a screwdriver to the rust:


In other news, I discovered the reason the heater wasn't working very well was the power connections hadn't been swapped over when it was converted to negative earth, so the fan was going backwards. I've made a start on replacing the leaky water pump and flushing the rust out of the coolant system. For some reason it was fitted with a 68C thermostat, which also can't have been helping the heater output.

I know I've said it before, but this is far more what I'm used to than most of the cars I see on here Good luck with it - I think it may be a bit of a long haul, but I know you're capable of it
a

It's the very least of the problems on that car - but the heater fan doesn't go backwards when the wires (or polarity) are swapped.

'swhat I thought, but assumed that Alex would know with his electronic brain. Which is correct? I've never changed them when swapping polarity
a

bmcecosse wrote:It's the very least of the problems on that car - but the heater fan doesn't go backwards when the wires (or polarity) are swapped.

It quite definitely does on this motor. I tried it both ways!