Morris Minor Owners Club

or with a hone tool in leccy drill)

do you mean one of these.[img][img]http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc17 ... C01042.jpg[/img][/img]

I have measured the bores which are standard and are in tolerance.[img][img]http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc17 ... C01043.jpg[/img][/img] The big ends and mains are 20 thou undersize they are smooth and just require a quick rub with fine emery.

this is the worst bearing shell[img][img]http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc17 ... C01017.jpg[/img][/img]

I have already ordered the parts including new oil pump and timing chain kit, the only thing I am nervous about is setting the clearance of the rear main and crank.

That's the hone - you should use it to 'bust' the glaze on the bores. Or just use emery on your hand (if it will go up the bores - mine won't on a 1098 - but will just on a 1275) and work up and down the bores twisting as you go to create fine 45 degree cross-hatch pattern. If you don't do this - the new rings will struggle to bed in. Also make sure the piston lands are clean - and not damaged in any way. I wouldn't rub the crank journals with anything over than a clean duster! If that's the 'worst' shell then there is absolutely nothing wrong in there!

The only other concern is that the engine has stood for years, it wasn't seized or anything, but by standing the cast parts of the conrods and cranks had a later of rusty particles. I have a set of conrods from another engine, is there a problem using these or should I just clean up the originals.
These are the two different ones side by side.[img][img]http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc17 ... C01022.jpg[/img][/img]

Shouldn't be a problem, as long as the caps and rods are the matched pairs that they were in the original engine
a

I think I would use the NON rusty ones! But pick the best of the pistons - PROVIDED they are all the same bore size and same 'dish' in the top. Interesting that the rusty one seems to have the later/newer Mini type bolts. Also - note the rods are right and left hand - don't get that wrong! And as 'a' says - DO NOT mix up the caps. You need to get ALL the hard black stuff out of the ring grooves - a broken ring makes a good scraper - but be careful to not scrape away any metal. You may find 'Carb Cleaner' from Poundland works quite well - but it is almost pure Toluene and so extremely flammable! I've also used the Alloy Wheel Cleaner foam spray from the same source - it's good on anything Aluminium - use it with a tooth brush - but wash the brush out well afterwards!

thanks both, the bolts were subject of an earlier post, the engine has previously been rebuilt, and has a label,

I bought it as a running engine to be bolted straight in, but I thought it would be prudent to remove the head and the sump to check its condition, good job I did. All in all it appears to be a good unit, and as a bonus the gearbox that came with it has also been rebuilt and a quick check shows the gears are in exceptional condition.[/img]

Just an update, the dirty pistons are the best ones, there is very little room either side of the new rings, whereas the other pistons ones are quite slack. I gapped the new rings in the bore halfway down, they were just in tolereance so I just gently honed the bores so as not to make them too big.