Morris Minor Owners Club

The 948 diff / halfshafts should be fine with the 1098's 48BHP as long as they are not already knackered!! I think they are the same thickness as the 1098 ones and so should be capable of handling 70BHP (when new). I have some in the garage but I have never made the comparison!! (but the diffs are interchangeable so they should be the same)

If you want to keep the car as original as possible (and be safe) then change the front drums to the 8" 1098 ones, as Chris suggested.

Cam is right. My two cars have 948 rear axles and diffs. One has a 1098 and has coped well, the other has a 948 with large valve head and carb and has snapped a halfshaft. Of the two engines I would say that 1098 still has the greater torque and power. The rear axle should take 70bhp when new but everything deteriorates and if you break a halfshaft, even though you have another, you won't go anywhere

Ok, i'll try and get those brakes.

Do i only need the front drums and hubs? and do i need the master cylinder also?

What is involved in removing them?

You will need 8 inch backplates as well, retain the existing hubs I'm sure they are the same size. I uprated my saloon after fitting 1098 engine etc. and if my memory is right I used the original hubs after fitting new bearings and grease seals.

While you are at it you may as well get everything that will unbolt from the stub-axle, but like '57 says, I think the hubs might be the same (because the PCD is). You won't need to change the master cylinder, but you might want to renew all the rubber hoses and brake seals while you are at it.

I was only able to get the brake assembly off one side, as the cross-head screws on the other side were rounded off.

The one i did get was in very good condition however, with new brake shoes, so thats a bonus.

I guess i'll have to source another from somewhere.

The two crosshead screws holding the brake drums on often get worn down. The solution is to use an impact screwdriver to create a new groove for the screwdriver blade (there's enough metal to do this).

unfortunately the car is being scrapped tomorrow, so theres no chance of getting it

The 1098cc is being scrapped tommorrow? When it's still got loads of mechanical parts which could help other Minor owners? What a waste !

The components for the steering rack, front suspension, diff/rear axle and rear hubs are all worth taking off. Not to mention body panels, especially doors(if sound) and interior fittings. These parts alone would probably fetch £100 or more on E-Bay.

Did your friend offer it for parts to anyone else? If you let us know where it's located it's possible a member of this board will gleefully have it off him for spares. There may even be a local dismantler who will offer a small sum for it.

Winger if you have a problem with the screws slots being mangled I always use a centre punch and this frees them quite easily, but you will need new screws which if the old ones are shot is not a problem

The car is in Great Hayward, just outside stafford. If anyone wants to take the whole car (which is without front wheels) then let me know and i'll pass on your details. It will have to be taken away in one piece, and in the next couple of days.

WINGER....be careful, the brake backplates are HANDED,
they are marked left and right...if you put them on the
wrong side you will have 2 trailing shoe brakes instead of
2 leading shoe!! When i changed mine I left the original
Master Cylinder in place and had no problems. When,later,
I fitted the later Master cylinder( the 1098 master has a
SMALLER bore) I noticed no improvement whatsover.

thanks for that tip, i'll be on the lookout for a LH one then.