Morris Minor Owners Club

RogerRust wrote:Now Bill that is a very good idea!

I'll try that next.

Can any one tell me the correct way to adjust the engine steady? I have fitted new poly bushes.

When correctly adjusted, the engine steady can be rotated slightly with the fingers. In other words, it should be adjusted so that the inner bushes are in a 'neutral state' of compression, neither pulling on the engine or pushing on the engine. To do this, adjust the centre section length with the two end nuts removed or slackened right off. After adjusting the centre section, tighten the end nuts, but do not over compress the outer bushes. The alignment angles between the two brackets needs to be correct, so if the bracket at the battery box end is slightly out of whack, slacken the cylinder head nut that holds the engine bracket, fit the engine steady tie bar, then re-tighten the cylinder head nut.

I noticed you are thinking about replacing the engine mountings. Be aware the new ones are extremely hard, and tend to make the engine feel rough for a few hundred miles. To avoid this, you can drill a 5mm hole through the centre of the new mounting, then fill the hole with copydex adhesive, this allows a bit of flex to the new mountings.

The gearbox steady cable should never be under tension when correctly adjusted, aim for a little slack, as it is only intended to act under heavy braking.

"As I think I mentioned Roger, if the steady is not correctly adjusted it can in fact make matters worse. Have you tried running without the steady fitted?"

Yes and this applies to the gearbox steady cable if its too tight.

If you have some nice spongy front engine mounts I would hang on to them! Fitting new replacements completely ruined my nice smooth Minor.
Does the vibration at 60 mph only occur when you have been driving at that speed for some time or does it occur even if you briefly reach that speed? I ask because I had a high speed vibration on a Mini when using the M1 which turned out to be an egg shaped bulge which only appeared on the tread when it was really warmed up.

If you have some nice spongy front engine mounts I would hang on to them! Fitting new replacements completely ruined my nice smooth Minor.

Mine too

To avoid this, you can drill a 5mm hole through the centre of the new mounting, then fill the hole with copydex adhesive, this allows a bit of flex to the new mountings

Brilliant!
What sort of drill bit is best? I remember really struggling to open out the antiroll bar bushes before.

5mm doesn't seem much of a hole. If you picture the mount is that front to back or top to bottom (or both)

Are you sure this vibration isn't caused by uneven running of the engine itslf - because normally it should be 'sewing machine' smooth. Even in Minis where the engines are clamped up almost solid - they don't put much vibration into the car!

BMC has a point, a few years ago I had a vibration at 50mph in the traveller, in the end the vibration went after replacing a burnt exhaust valve. I.e the car was running on 3 1/2 cylinders. back on 4 its smooth again.

Try a compression test.

For those interested in modifying the 'New' hard engine mountings. The 5mm hole gets drilled through the side of the mounting. You need to clamp the mounting into a vice, as the drill bit tends to grab at the rubber, and causes the mounting to twist if held by hand. I use titanium coated drill bits. The copydex adhesive is simply used to protect the drilled out hole in the rubber.

A 5mm hole may not sound like much, but the mod is based on the volume of rubber removed.

MoggyTech wrote:
I noticed you are thinking about replacing the engine mountings. Be aware the new ones are extremely hard, and tend to make the engine feel rough for a few hundred miles.

The last ones I got were extremely soft, and tore as the engine was mounted
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bigginger wrote:

MoggyTech wrote:
I noticed you are thinking about replacing the engine mountings. Be aware the new ones are extremely hard, and tend to make the engine feel rough for a few hundred miles.

The last ones I got were extremely soft, and tore as the engine was mounted
a

That's even worse news. So sourceing new engine mountings, is going to be a bit of a lottery Seems to be anything made from rubber on a Moggy, is pot luck when it comes to new items.

It does. I ended up using an old set that I'd kinda given up on...

RogerRust wrote:Now Bill that is a very good idea!

I'll try that next.

Well????????????

I'll repeat my question. Does your vibration occur when you hit 62mph and above even if the tyres are cold or does it appear only after sustained driving over 62?

Sorry Willie, no its not only a problem only when warmed up It happens within the first few miles.

Today I'm going to take the front panel off, change the mounts, replace the crankshaft pulley for one with a damper, repaint the fan, torque up the head bolts, reset the engine steady and clean my already clean engine bay!

Then after lunch .........................

PS the new engine mounts look to be good quality - neitther hard nor spongy. Perhaps there has been an improvement in quality control.

Roger

I'll also repeat my question Have you tried running without the engine steady

Not yet but I will Bill!

No need now, - problem identified.

One of the engine mounts had come away from it's metal backing plate. So it was only gravity holding the engine on one side!

Now all I can hear at speed is wind noise because the quarterlights don't shut tight!

And I've plumbed in the heated manifold and done away with the standard copper pipe.

I'm not sure, but I think it runs better with the manifold heated. Its only heated in the winter though - The heater is really hot so it will be switched off until it gets cold.

Still got to retorque the engine - tomorrow is another day!

Well done That'll be a modern rubber, then...