Morris Minor Owners Club

bmcecosse wrote:NO - you DO NOT EVER hammer on top of the tre !!!!!!!!!

Well I thought that couldn't be right...see I told you I'd sound like a numpty

So how do you refit the TRE?

I used a tuning fork this afternoon on the Metro, and was quite surprised how little I chewed the rubbers up with it. But they are pretty brutal - Ideal for a single job like this as they're cheap and the old rubber is the problem, but not a great investment if there's going to be many balljoints split in the future that want the rubbers keeping.

I like the scissor type splitters most, but have found sometime they just can't be gotten onto the balljoints, so the bolt type come in handy where space is an issue. Best is to have all three, but then you need lots of different cars so you can use them all

I'd go for the scissor type if given the choice.

For re-assembly the tapers need to be CLEAN and in good condition. If they are ok, you should be able to pinch the taper into place with just a fist thump on top of the TRE - hammering on top of TRE shouldn't be required. The problem arises if the nut is very stiff it can unlock the aper before the nut is screwed up, but if so, then clean up the thread. If you've got one with a nylock nut, then it'll need to have a good clean taper to avoid it turning.

The nyloc nut on new ones can be a problem because the taper does not grip enough to be able to tighten the nyloc.
What I do is use a standard nut first to get it locked on the taper then remove it carefully and replace with the nyloc.
The other trick I used once was to slot the bottom of the bolt and stopped it turning with a screwdriver.

I have more problems with the back nut on the track rod itself. Last time I had to take the whole rack off and get it in the vice to undo it. The best way to do the back nut is to loosen it first before you break the taper, that way at least you have some thing to purchase against.

Loosen the back nut then tighten it so that it is just there so that when you put the TRE back it regains its alignment.

Excellent advice & tips chaps. Thank you to all.
If I have any trouble, I'll know where to come ;-)

cheers,
[dave]

IF you use the big tuning fork type that you just insert between the steering arm and TRE and then hit with the biggest hammer you've got, I find if you grease the fork end to lubricate it as it slides in, you can generally get away without it ripping the boot. Obviously not a prob in you case as that already needs replacing, but worth knowing if you want to take a good one off...