Morris Minor Owners Club

Good idea - and reset valve gaps.

I do know you should always replace head studs on modern engines, didn't know the older engines needed new ones too

Probably a wise move, but, as others say, how often does it actually get done?

I have never heard of replacing studs on an A series engine. What would be the point in replacing them with second hand ones that you know nothing about?
On modern diesel and maybe petrol engines they use stretch bolts and novel torquing techniques like 2 stages of torque then turn the bolt another 90 degrees.
Some people will measure these bolts and reuse if still in spec.

MarkyB wrote:I have never heard of replacing studs on an A series engine. What would be the point in replacing them with second hand ones that you know nothing about?

Sense of humour needed in aisle 4!

But yes, in theory mains, con rod and head fasteners shouldn't be re-used. I say in theory, because in practice who actually does when throwing new bearings or gaskets on an old engine? So long as the threads are good and the fastener winds up to the correct torque I re-use every time and have never had a problem doing so (I've also never had a problem simply going "bar tight" when I've had no torque wrench).

Sorry, I missed the smiley.
I was worried that someone looking for useful information would think it was true
Is that better

Competition units would have new studs nuts and bolts throughout as a matter of course. For road use - a quick check over the threads and it's fine.

It actually needed a new head in the end as there was a hairline crack in the head!!!!! :-S wonder what caused that??????
Oh well, trip down the dump, metro head off and hey presto! was from a 45,000 mile one (20 quid so not too bad)

Only problem i have now is the clamp that joins the manifold to the exhaust is blowing, i always seem to have this problem when changing a gasket, think i need to buy a new one!


Is it wise i be careful driving for a few hundred miles , or just use it as normal?

Was it a head from a 998 Metro ? If so - it will have slightly smaller inlet valves - so expect a slight power drop, but it's also likely to be UNLEADED - so that's a bonus. Yes - I would drive it a bit carefully - then re-torque and set gaps - then leather it as normal !

bmcecosse wrote:Always best to check your nuts.

Ahem

Said the squirrel, anyway!

Don't forget to change your oil filler cap at 12,000 miles as well.

Change oil filler cap ?????? Aye right !

Don't forget to change your oil filler cap at 12,000 miles as well.

That only applies to the later, vented type though I presume.