Morris Minor Owners Club

I know chris ryder adapted the original kit to have a solid copper pipe, might be worth sending him a pm.

I have the flexible tubing kit and apart from the sweating and local paint marking where the tube touches the bodywork, it all fitted very easily. A short piece of copper tube is included to get the tight 180° bend from the rear of the m/cyl inside the chassis leg neatly, and apart from drilling one hole at the bottom of the bulkhead, fit the grommet to the hole, passing the tube through from the remote reservoir, and drilling a hole in the flitch plate on the inner wing to mount the remote, that's it.

I did it as part of the rebuild, but I would imagine, with great care, that swobbing up some of the fluid from the m/cyl with a lint free cloth would enable the kit to be fitted without needing to drain the existing system? With a nice new full remote, it would be an ideal opportunity to flush through the old brake fluid, and for the first time not having to worry about topping up with fluid every half a dozen pedal strokes!!

I think if I did need to drain the system, I would look at replacing the rubber/plastic tube with either copper or cupro-nickel metal tubing to avoid the sweating and paint marking.

JLH do a copper piped reservoir kit.

i did indeed adapt my own to use copper pipe instead. but it involved the use of a lathe and a bit of fabrication.



the end cap that originally (from the kit) had a stub to push the plastic hose onto, i drilled through and tapped to take the same bolt and banjo fitted to the outlet from the M/C. mine uses a plain banjo bolt to make a 90 degree turn, not a T junction setup that a minor would have had originally, as i have a servo fitted.

if you can't do the fab yourself, best give JLH a call.

It seems to me you are not seeing 'condensation' on the plastic pipe - it must be slightly porous to the brake fluid and it's leaking through! Hence the paint marking where the pipe touches. I think I will continue to lift the carpet twice a year to check the level....

It looks like condensation but it is not-it's brake fluid and it doesn't happen all the time- it's strange. I too have problems with the paint so tied it up wih a cable tie to keep it away from paintwork. It's probably the wrong grade of plastic pipe being sold. The next time I have to go near the M/C I will do what Chris has shown above. That's a good solution.

Real quality kit then - designed for brake fluid and supplied with leaky plastic pipe! If it lets brake fluid OUT - does it let water IN ????? Brake fluid being famously hygroscopic

hygroscopic?

that wouldn't be a reference to the latest Minor Matters would it? I noticed that little gem.

Minor Mutters??

In all honesty, im not that impressed with the kit I fitted. I think after reading all these posts that the pipe is slightly porus. Also, the rubber seal at the top of the reservoir is not that clever either because when the cap is screwed back on, the rubber sometimes slips down into the fluid. I will have a look to see if I can get the copper pipe set up and a decent quality reservoir too......I really appreciate everyones comments on this. For sure the remote reservoir makes life a lot easier ( if it does not leak ) as I can see the levels as soon as I open the bonnet, and faffing around lifting carpet is not a lot of fun...

chrisryder wrote:JLH do a copper piped reservoir kit.

i did indeed adapt my own to use copper pipe instead. but it involved the use of a lathe and a bit of fabrication.



the end cap that originally (from the kit) had a stub to push the plastic hose onto, i drilled through and tapped to take the same bolt and banjo fitted to the outlet from the M/C. mine uses a plain banjo bolt to make a 90 degree turn, not a T junction setup that a minor would have had originally, as i have a servo fitted.

if you can't do the fab yourself, best give JLH a call.

Could not see any on the JLH website, so am going to fabricate my own set like your own.

Ive bought the following just now online :

- Girling Remote Reservoir with a 7/16" screw type fitting
- 3/8" BSF Banjo Bolt ( to fit into the rear cap of the master cylinder )
- Brass Banjo for the above
- 2 x 3/8" brass washers

I also have a roll of 3/16" copper pipe knocking around

What I need now is a pipe nut to go on the end of the copper pipe just under the remote reservoir.....but for 3/16" pipe, I can only find 3/8" UNF Pipe Nuts ( which are just pennies to buy ). What I really need is either a 7/16" pipe nut that drops down to fit the 3/16" copper pipe or brass union 3/8" unf male to 7/16" female to use an an adapter if I go with a 3/8" UNF pipe nut. I found this adaper online in only one shop, but they want nearly 8 quid for the adapter plus another 8 quid delivery plus VAT !!

Have you any idea where I could get an adapter at a sensible price or any other way to connect the 3/16" copper pipe to the girling reservoir 7/16" threads ?

Any advice would be much appreciated, thx.

swithland wrote:

chrisryder wrote:JLH do a copper piped reservoir kit.

i did indeed adapt my own to use copper pipe instead. but it involved the use of a lathe and a bit of fabrication.



the end cap that originally (from the kit) had a stub to push the plastic hose onto, i drilled through and tapped to take the same bolt and banjo fitted to the outlet from the M/C. mine uses a plain banjo bolt to make a 90 degree turn, not a T junction setup that a minor would have had originally, as i have a servo fitted.

if you can't do the fab yourself, best give JLH a call.

Could not see any on the JLH website, so am going to fabricate my own set like your own.

Ive bought the following just now online :

- Girling Remote Reservoir with a 7/16" screw type fitting
- 3/8" BSF Banjo Bolt ( to fit into the rear cap of the master cylinder )
- Brass Banjo for the above
- 2 x 3/8" brass washers

I also have a roll of 3/16" copper pipe knocking around

What I need now is a pipe nut to go on the end of the copper pipe just under the remote reservoir.....but for 3/16" pipe, I can only find 3/8" UNF Pipe Nuts ( which are just pennies to buy ). What I really need is either a 7/16" pipe nut that drops down to fit the 3/16" copper pipe or brass union 3/8" unf male to 7/16" female to use an an adapter if I go with a 3/8" UNF pipe nut. I found this adaper online in only one shop, but they want nearly 8 quid for the adapter plus another 8 quid delivery plus VAT !!

Have you any idea where I could get an adapter at a sensible price or any other way to connect the 3/16" copper pipe to the girling reservoir 7/16" threads ?

Any advice would be much appreciated, thx.

Sorry.....one last question.....

I bought a set of 3 taps for making the 3/8" BSF threads in the rear mastyer cylinder end cap... what size drill bit do I need to buy to drill before using the taps ?

UPDATE

Ive managed to find a brass 7/16" pipe nut that fits to 3/16" copper pipe !

So, the total costs to put this kit together are ( including vat and postage ) :

- Girling Remote Reservoir with a 7/16" screw type fitting - £16.70
- 2 x Copper Washer (Small 3/8" I.D.) - £0.80
- 1 x Banjo Bolt- ( used normally for the Front Brake Cylinder 3/8" BSF MM & Series II ) - £3.95
- 1 x Brass Banjo- ( used normally for the Rear Brake & Master Cylinder ) - £6.50
- Postage & VAT for the banjo bolt & Banjo - £4.05
- Copper Brake Pipe ( 3/16" ) - approx £3.00
- 7/16" brake pipe nut that fits to 3/16" pipe - £3.95
- Set of three 3/8" BSF Taps - £5.95
- Drill bit to drill through the rear master cylinder cap ( not yet bought as im not sure what size that needs to be ) estimated £3.00

Total Cost - £47.90

Seems like a lot of money, but im happy that I will eliminate the plastic pipe and give a long term rigid solution.

Crikey! I'll think of that cost each time i lift my carpet.......

bmcecosse wrote:Crikey! I'll think of that cost each time i lift my carpet.......

Thought that would bring a smile Ah well...will just have to one less Pizza next week

i can't think of the drilling size before tapping. i just used the crib sheet on the wall next to the lathe at my dads work

a quick googling found this though: Tapping Drill 3/8 BSF = 8.2mm
(from http://homepages.tesco.net/~A10bsa/sizesgo.htm)

Yes thanks for that. Just did a google too. 8.1mm. Cheers

Swithland,
Where did you source the 7/16" brake pipe nut for 3/16" pipe?

Declan_Burns wrote:Swithland,
Where did you source the 7/16" brake pipe nut for 3/16" pipe?

Hi Declan

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Pipe-Br ... 8460371638

Cheers, Charles

Thanks Charles,

I just bought one of these for my Allard, which has the same master cylinder as the Jags, and possibly also the morris minors? I think it's a Lockheed one.
https://www.sngbarratt.com/uk/#!/Englis ... S&f=2&m=85