Morris Minor Owners Club

Dave
Phew !! and breathe

Bob

I think you may have trouble in the future with that arrangement, to save doing things twice, I'd seriously consider finding the right under bulkhead rubbers, they will seal better against water leaks as well

i have some

I'll take 10% Dennis if I've convinced Dave!

ok

I take your point there on the correct parts under the dash. Bob kindly mailed me a few pages of very handy advice re wiper systems. I'll have a good read Bob and digest the info over a cup of tea.[frame][/frame]

Ive started and already fitted these bits before I read Les and Dennis advice re fitting the correct bits. Shame, because it looks like they work rather well.[frame][/frame]
the wiper spindle threads are further in now, so they won't snag on the bonnet when it's raised[frame][/frame]

with my new replacement rack greased up and sliding home, slight adjustment on the drivers side wheel box angle and it was in and sliding back and forth with ease. I think the internal embellishers help hold the wheel box at a constant angle. I'll take Les's point and keep an eye on them over time.
[frame][/frame]

Now to connect up the new wiper motor, when as Bob says, the red wire is soldered to the cap, (pre fitted inside the top plate) do you rotate the cap to get the correct position for parking the blades?[frame][/frame]

Dave
Yes.
Don't refit the actual wiper blades at this stage.Make some small pointers out of cardboard and tape them to the spindles.
That way you can check the sweep stop point and the furthest part of the sweep point.
Re-attach the arms when you are happy, wet the screen and check out again, adjusting the dome position slightly, if necessary.
Just leave the main cover bolts " just " gripping, so you can move the dome by hand.
Once you're happy tighten up fully.
I'd slap more grease on the gear wheel perimeter and sliding arm area, if I were you .Hopefully it won't being seeing the light of day again for a couple of decades !!
Bob

like the idea of the cardboard pointers on the spindles Bob, I'll use that idea thanks. But I'm not there yet, shock and disaster, this part won't go into the new rack I got from ESM some time ago, This is why Les is getting so annoyed with replacement parts, they sometimes simply don't fit. So some emery cloth polishing needed here..[frame][/frame]

over an hour of polishing and test fitting later, a nice loose fit, not too loose mind, just loose enough to prevent heat buildup through friction. Now to grease up the works.[frame][/frame]

so, bolted on for a test fit, wires in, ignition on, wiper switch turned down, and...nothing, half expected the wiper motor to kick into life for a moment there, but not even a twitch of movement. Might be a problem at the switch I guess.[frame][/frame]

so first check, disconnected the motor from the wiper assembly by removing the link, just to narrow down the problem. even with just the internal cog wheel to turn there's still nothing, next, is power getting to the motor and if so, is the switch on the dash faulty? So using my multimeter how do I check if it's the switch itself.[frame][/frame]

just connect the wiper motor to your battery

Dave
Whoa, whoa......stop.
Was the link arm and the electrical contact arm, inside the dome, all connected up first time ?
It must be in situ for it to operate electrically.Dis-connect the rack part if you like / must but with all the testing beforehand on free movement, it shouldn't be the problem.
Remember that the wiper motor operates differently to most things on the car.

The Green wire is the permanent LIVE feed to the motor ( should be Terminal 2 ).
The Black wire ( earth ) should be attached to Terminal 3 / " E " .
The Black / Green wire ( the second active "earth " Terminal 1 ) goes to earth, via the switch

Test the switch by removing the switch earth wire black and the Black / Green wire...set to ohms Multi meter wire to the two lucar male connectors.If it's OK you should have resistance in the On position and no resistance in the off position.

Power to the motor ? Test. set to 20 volts range and with ignition on,Multi meter Black lead to a good earth and Red lead to the Green wire (removed from the motor ) you should get the same battery voltage reading figure, confirming power in.Put the Green wire lead down safely, without shorting it until you have switched off the ignition and replaced the Green lead on the motor.
The wire you have soldered onto the dome should lie horizontally left to right above the 2 rivets.The left hand part of the external clip should " crimp" and hold the wire in position, whilst the wire itself should go under the right hand side part of the clip to be soldered.
Both the earths , motor and switch must be clean and sound.Multi meter test set to volts 20v range Red lead to battery positive and negative to the earth point.Battery voltage reading circa 12.6 ' ish should register.
Check it out, wet the screen and try again.
Bob

P.S.reviewing the pictures , I can't see anything of the 3 mounting bolts/ rubber washers/ grommets which should insulate
the " live " metal wiper body from the car body ( and therefore a path to earth !! ).How are the fuses...in tact ? or did they pop ?

Surley the rubber mounts are to reduce noise and vibration. If it were an "isolated from earth" motor then the wheel boxes and the rack tubes would need to be isolates as well. If the rack tubes touched the bodywork anywhere it would compromise the insulation from earth

I'm thinking the same, the studs (screwed into the motor) that the rubber grommets fit over are 'earthed' by way of the nuts that secure the motor body to it's metal platform.

I stand corrected guys.
Bob

ok, so for the purpose of the test I'm ok with the legs temporarily fitted that way, so using Bob's list, wires in that order on the terminals, link connected, top back on and still no sign of motor power.[frame][/frame]
switch next, marked the green black terminal with a green sticker before unplugging and removing the switch, first test with OHMS set at 20, switch set to off position[frame][/frame]

then set to on position[frame][/frame]

is 1 ohm enough of a result here, or does the switch need replacing?