Morris Minor Owners Club

and not such a good spark
timing may need advancing unless dizzy is knackered
as suggested go back to points and try again

----and put the old carb back, I was a bit puzzled as to why you bought a new one, maybe I missed the reasoning. A good starting point is usually to put the spec back to when it was running ok.

I agree, but do one at a time or you still wont know where the problem is coming from!

changing the wires over as suggested has given a little more power, she drove me home reasonably smoothly, so long as I didn't rev too hard. Still more slight adjustment needed on the timing there, but getting better. The other contribution to better engine running today was changing the oil. I found it was slightly overfilled nearer 7 pints, not the 6 and a half pints of fresh oil in there now.[frame][/frame]

But, and these days there's always a But, there's a clonk. I guess it's another detail in my long running restoration that needs attention. The clonk on taking up the clutch was caused by worn universal joints, I renewed them and they're fine, no movement there, but the propshaft can be turned half an inch by hand, this must be what causes the clunk on taking up the drive, anyone advise what needs to be replaced here?
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that play is ok
unless you want to change the diff

Over here "mechanics" would just add some wood shavings to the diff oil to stop the clonking noises. (don't do that)

You can go quite a few miles like that but it will need to be changed in the future.

If it isn't whining, it ain't broke!
Mine has at least as much play, not an issue.

mines like that after 120000 miles no probs

That play is backlash between the pinion & crown in the diff. There should always be play there perhaps not that much, but should be ok like that.
For the clonking I would look at loose bolts or play in the engine mountings/towers, The top engine steady bushes & bolts drivers side bulkhead to block. Gearbox side mounts and rubbers for loose bolts & play. Use a 18" ish bar to lever them checking for play etc

thanks for the info on the rear diff/propshaft guys, useful, I'll leave it alone as it's not broken, But I will take your advice Steve and have a general tighten up of engine and gearbox mounting bolts. Ive been quite busy on her lately, My Friend Kev has a strobe timing light with a clamp that clips to the HT lead and gives an indication if there's a correct pulse travelling along it. There are inconsistencies on two of the four ht leads, did an OhmS test and all leads check out ok, checked fuel supply, carb timing, all ok. I am beginning to suspect the Distributer. I called ESM for a price of a new one with points and condenser, including p&p and vat it would cost me nearly a ton, So I checked out on here, and a name came up ending with the letters BBC, not Aunty Beeb but a respected dealer who does a electronic d25 for under thirty quid including p&p and vat.
I don't think I can go far wrong at that price, I'll keep you all posted[frame][/frame]

also I'm going to learn from other parts of this helpful website and mount my coil on the inner wing away from the heat and vibration of the engine[frame][/frame]

accuspark are also good
ad simonbbc
I have the accuspark and its good

Just check your electronic ignition wiring. As you have an alternator fitted you now run on negative earth. The "+" & "-" symbol on the COIL have no relevance to the polarity of the electronic ignition as you should have reversed the coil connections when you changed over from a positive earth dynamo.
So just ignore any symbols on the coil body for now. Check you have the negative (black) wire from the electronic unit fitted to the points side of the coil and the positive (red) wire to the switch side of the coil.
It does make a difference if the electronic ignition is wired the wrong way round.

"There are inconsistencies on two of the four ht leads, did an OhmS test and all leads check out ok"

Try swapping your spark plugs! Fit some NGK BP6ES

a strobe timing light wont find ht faults as such it's only meant to go on No 1 ht lead to check the dynamic timing It lights up the timing marks on the crank front pulley and gives the illusion of it being stood still. The timing advance and retard can be observed at the timing mark the light will make the notch on the pulley appear advanced or retarded in relation to the pointer on the block

The timing advance and retard can be observed at the timing mark the light will make the notch on the pulley appear advanced or retarded in relation to the pointer on the block

When you rev the engine up.

MarkyB wrote:

The timing advance and retard can be observed at the timing mark the light will make the notch on the pulley appear advanced or retarded in relation to the pointer on the block

When you rev the engine up.

Well yes I thought that was obvious, must be my Wigan accent lol....

I would defo look at the electronic ignition, particularly the polarity paying extra care as youv'e got an alternator conversion AND it was faulty/blown iirc.

Remember your points wire on the dissy is always same polarity as yer earth IE on alternator set up NEGATIVE.

I just looked at Akusparks site they list a POSITIVE earth and a NEGATIVE earth kit for the morris

You may be right about it being obvious, it is when you understand how things should work.

finally the problem is identified and the engine is running smoothly. The Carb is at fault, with this carb fitted I changed the distributer over to a brand new Lucas D25 with points, still no change to the misfires. So it's not the Dizzy. Then swapped over the Carb to the old one and she works perfectly. Can't get over it, they're so simple, what can be wrong. Well the cylinder lifts fine, or so I thought. With so many adjustments made to see if the cylinder oil was wrong ect, it's the unit itself, maybe some manufacture fault. That's going back to Bull Motif for refund or replacement. Caused me weeks of headscratching. But problem solved, and I'm keeping the points Distributer fitted as well.[frame][/frame]