Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 6:42 am
thanks
Morris Minor Owners Club
Promoting the Preservation and Use of the Postwar Morris Minor
https://board.mmoc.org.uk/
hydraulic clutch
Page 1 of 1
Posted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 9:09 am
Ahh - ok - so ball release not absolutely required then! And not self adjusting in that mode. Can't see the advantage then really - my clutch is very light/smooth with the standard linkage!
Posted: Thu Jul 16, 2009 12:46 pm
Finally got the instructions scanned in.....
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Instructions are copied out below as text was very faint. If anyone wants a copy of the original to work from (in case of typo's!) then let me know and I will email it.
"This conversion kit is easy to install and retains the use of the existing Minor clutch pedal. Please read the instructions carefully and understand them before starting work.
Start by removing the gearbox mounting crossmember, all the mechanical clutch linkage and crossover shaft from the car, following the instructions in any Minor manual. It would be advisable to remove the gearbox tunnel cover from inside the car to give easy access for installation. Support the gearbox with a jack throughout this operation.
Fig. 1.
Using the template supplied, enlarge the two half-round cutaways in the crossmember end (driver’s side). Only the rear cutaway needs the two ‘ears’ filed out. (see template).
Fig. 2.
Attach the new master cylinder to the crossmember as shown and refit the assembly to the car. Push the clutch pedal up as far as possible: adjust the clevis on the threaded push rod until the holes in the clutch pedal and clevis line up. Back off the clevis until half a hole is visible and the insert the clevis pin.
Fig. 3.
Using the forward bolt hole in the chassis (one of the two used for the crossover shaft pivot), screw in the long ½” bolt supplied complete with locknut. Hook the new return spring between the bolt and the clevis.
Fig. 4.
Shorten the original Minor adjusting rod to 4” as shown and radius off the end with a file. Use the original locknut and the new ‘ball’ nut supplied.
Now bolt the new slave cylinder onto the bell-housing using the two 9/16” bolts supplied. There are two threaded holes already in the gearbox casing for this purpose. As you do this, insert the shortened rod (Fig. 4.) into the slave cylinder (radiused end) and into the eye of the clutch lever arm coming out from the gearbox. Ensure that the ball-nut is as far onto the threaded rod as possible.
You must now adjust the clearance of the carbon lift race from the clutch. Push the adjusting rod fully into the slave, against the pressure of the internal spring, and hold it there whilst unscrewing the ball-nut until there is about ¼” free play between the arm and the ball-nut. Connect the original clutch return spring in the normal way, pulling the arm towards the slave cylinder.
Fit the long copper pipe between the slave and forward connection on the master cylinder. Secure the pipe against the chassis with two of the ‘P’ clips supplied, clear of any obstructions it may rub against.
Screw the copper adapter pipe into the rearward master cylinder connection. Fix the remote reservoir rubber pipe with clip supplied and run it forward along the chassis leg to the engine compartment where the reservoir unit should be sited in a convenient position.
Fill the reservoir and bleed the system. Check the lever arm adjustment again and lock up the nut.
The clearance adjustment should be periodically checked for correct setting, measurements taken at the lever fork end, NOT clutch pedal free play as is the normal way."
Clear as mud now?
<br>
Instructions are copied out below as text was very faint. If anyone wants a copy of the original to work from (in case of typo's!) then let me know and I will email it.
"This conversion kit is easy to install and retains the use of the existing Minor clutch pedal. Please read the instructions carefully and understand them before starting work.
Start by removing the gearbox mounting crossmember, all the mechanical clutch linkage and crossover shaft from the car, following the instructions in any Minor manual. It would be advisable to remove the gearbox tunnel cover from inside the car to give easy access for installation. Support the gearbox with a jack throughout this operation.
Fig. 1.
Using the template supplied, enlarge the two half-round cutaways in the crossmember end (driver’s side). Only the rear cutaway needs the two ‘ears’ filed out. (see template).
Fig. 2.
Attach the new master cylinder to the crossmember as shown and refit the assembly to the car. Push the clutch pedal up as far as possible: adjust the clevis on the threaded push rod until the holes in the clutch pedal and clevis line up. Back off the clevis until half a hole is visible and the insert the clevis pin.
Fig. 3.
Using the forward bolt hole in the chassis (one of the two used for the crossover shaft pivot), screw in the long ½” bolt supplied complete with locknut. Hook the new return spring between the bolt and the clevis.
Fig. 4.
Shorten the original Minor adjusting rod to 4” as shown and radius off the end with a file. Use the original locknut and the new ‘ball’ nut supplied.
Now bolt the new slave cylinder onto the bell-housing using the two 9/16” bolts supplied. There are two threaded holes already in the gearbox casing for this purpose. As you do this, insert the shortened rod (Fig. 4.) into the slave cylinder (radiused end) and into the eye of the clutch lever arm coming out from the gearbox. Ensure that the ball-nut is as far onto the threaded rod as possible.
You must now adjust the clearance of the carbon lift race from the clutch. Push the adjusting rod fully into the slave, against the pressure of the internal spring, and hold it there whilst unscrewing the ball-nut until there is about ¼” free play between the arm and the ball-nut. Connect the original clutch return spring in the normal way, pulling the arm towards the slave cylinder.
Fit the long copper pipe between the slave and forward connection on the master cylinder. Secure the pipe against the chassis with two of the ‘P’ clips supplied, clear of any obstructions it may rub against.
Screw the copper adapter pipe into the rearward master cylinder connection. Fix the remote reservoir rubber pipe with clip supplied and run it forward along the chassis leg to the engine compartment where the reservoir unit should be sited in a convenient position.
Fill the reservoir and bleed the system. Check the lever arm adjustment again and lock up the nut.
The clearance adjustment should be periodically checked for correct setting, measurements taken at the lever fork end, NOT clutch pedal free play as is the normal way."
Clear as mud now?