Morris Minor Owners Club

there is also evidence of a lighter leak coming from the rear scroll seal, now this I have very little knowledge about, it's mentioned in the Tech section under oil leak, but there's no pictures of course.[frame][/frame]

I have a packet of gaskets, far more than I need, sent from ESM, these are nothing to do with the oil pump(oil pump tab washer on the right,) so they must be gaskets for the scroll seal?[frame][/frame]

I'm dealing with the pump first, the old pump came out after a bit of a jog and a wiggle, I used the bolts to pinch it out[frame][/frame]

the oily little hole where it sat, since 1968[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

them gaskets are for the scroll plate which bolts to the rear main cap with three bolts, this is very rarely removed and sometimes have lock wires on them....

a comparison between the old and new oil pumps and their gaskets, I'm wondering if a light smear of gastight blue on both sides of the gasket will help stop a future leak.[frame][/frame]

It was going well, then disaster struck, I was carefully tightening up the bolts when pink! I overtightened them just a smidge and the casting broke through.[frame][/frame]
I considered the old outer case with the new pump, but they are different designs, so, old pump with a new gasket.[frame][/frame]

this time I took much more care tightening the bolts, not that it made much difference, the original pump is made of much tougher stuff.[frame][/frame]

there is a torgue figure for these

modern repro c..p

David
You've been eating too many bacon rolls and don't know your own strength.
The usual trick with an oil pump is to fill the gaps with vaseline but with a moggie you can turn it over on the starting handle
( plugs out , to make it easier ) to " prime " the oil pump, before re-starting the engine.Write note to self and tie note to steering wheel
I haven't done the scroll seals on a moggie before but Paul is right.... the bolts are wire locked finishing on the left hand bolt , as shown in one of your pictures.
There seems to be plenty of room to extract the bolts.Photogragh the locking wire "route" through the three bolts so you can replicate on re-assembly.
Usual good clean up, new gasket,a smear of gasket cement for luck, bolt up and replace the locking wire.Be generous with the length of wire to assemble, you can always cut off the excess later.Form a loop, twist by hand... slightly over length, then use pliers to twist up tight ( not so tight that you snap the wire !! it's only the belt and braces approach to a potentiual problem ) to achieve the " Right length".Then with the remaining wire secure the "Tail " and cut off excess.
Bob

yes you're right Dennis, I exceeded it and payed the price, my next task moving quickly on, is the gasket for this seal, I'm not sure if it's right and I'm looking at the "scroll seal" but in the manual it only shows bolts and gasket, no lock washer, so I guess this wire tab is belts and braces, the shaped cap must be what I'm looking at...[frame][/frame]

so, off with the wire tab and bolts and in with a new gasket, see if that stems the flow of oil from here.[frame][/frame]

that is set to factory tolerances , ad if disturbed can be worse

Bob we posted at the same time so I didn't see yours till after I'd done the wire tab, I took the cap off, it's leaking oil so any- thing that helps has got to be the right way.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

with a glean up with white spirit and a brand new gasket, and sealant as Bob says, for good measure. Trouble is I won't know Ive done it right till it's running again. Thanks for the priming tip for the oil pump Bob and the wire tab advice.[frame][/frame]
all back together and a new Manifold gasket fitted.[frame][/frame]

time for a clean up of the engine bay before the lump goes back in[frame][/frame]

the gap closes, putting the engine back in single handed is double as hard as taking it out, the forces of gravity are all against you. Just want to get the bolts done up before I let myself collapse in a heap.[frame][/frame]

davidmiles wrote:the gap closes, putting the engine back in single handed is double as hard as taking it out, the forces of gravity are all against you. Just want to get the bolts done up before I let myself collapse in a heap.[frame][/frame]

your almost there
if i was closer i would have given you a lift in with it
please watch your back when lifting it
hope you have cured her
and keep posting those pictures

cheers Alex, it's closing, but it's been this way for several hours of pushing shoving, wiggling. So I took out the bolts from the starter motor mount and the gap on the other side closed up a bit more, I'm 1/4 of an inch away now, there's light at the end of the tunnel and a hot Radox bath[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

by raising and lowering the two trolley jacks I'm getting closer together, with a bit of a wiggle[frame][/frame]

If you over tightened the pump bolts the bolts would break or the thread strip. To my mind it looks like the pump rotor was too long and hit the pin in the camshaft before the main body was sitting on the block, then winding the bolts in to seat the body caused the end of the rotor to push the centre of the casing out. It's a pity you didn't compare the new pump rotor to the original because I reckon the new one was longer.