Morris Minor Owners Club

Do you work under there with just the axle stands or do you put any blocks and things as well. Just as I have had one skid out once, fortunately I was not underneath but it did some damage to the car. (Not a moggy though, an Austin 1100)

i've had a look at my accelerator pedal. the pad itself seems to sit almost bang on central between the brake pedal and the wheel arch 'dome'. it's hard to see from your pics, it could just be the angle, but yours looks very close to the brake pedal.

Thanks for that Chris, Ive got two options then, bend the pedal bar so the foot pad goes to the right and is generally halfway between them or, sort that cut off bolt and relocate the pedal assembly. It's gonna be decided by the cable positioning I guess.
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That will have to wait until I have the throttle cable sorted, I'm on the handbrake cables today, the little horseshoe shaped bits arrived the next day I ordered them from ESM.[frame][/frame]

the pins in, this went together satisfyingly easy...[frame][/frame]

the handbrake cables run along the middle and through the bottom rear of the cab.[frame][/frame]

they bolt on to the curved part of the chassis. with grease nipples half way.[frame][/frame]

now to tighten the cables and get some tension in the handbrake[frame][/frame]

took a picture of my pedal, it's in a 4 door saloon, can't imagine the pickup would be different:
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the distance between the centre of the brake pedal pad, and the centre of the accl pedal pad is ~105mm on mine.
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Also, your handbrake cables appear to be missing springs and washers too. not sure what their purpose is, they must serve to seat the brass nut to stop it vibrating undone, or trapping carpet as you apply the handbrake.
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unsure if this is the right way up, its shown the other way in the manual with the bridgeing piece of copper pipe at the bottom, but it's better protected at the top and not so vulnerable to road debris.I wonder if it will work ok like this?[frame][/frame]

the heavy engine components are now bolted on, ready for fine adjustment when I fit the belts, wiring, hoses, radiator and so on, the rotor arm rotates when I turn the engine over by hand, but the timing has totally been lost.
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just seen your pictures Chris, great detail, I must have those springs kicking around somewhere, the pedal doesn't look that far out, looks like I could match your pedal location with the slightest bend of the pedal bar, thanks for those.

The brakes pipes wont work out like that, the one coming from the engine bay fits from underneath the flex pipe. The small connecting pipe between the 2 cylinders should fit underneath the stub axle between the backing plate so if you ever need to remove the backing plate you dont have to let the pressure off the brakes.

yes, those brakes are very upside down!

you will probably find that on full lock the flexi pipe pulls tight on the tie rod too!

as for the copper pipe being 'out of harms way' that puts the flexi pipe even more in harms way!

as already pointed out, the flexi should come from above (and mount the other way up on the inner wing) and the copper pipe should loop below, but be bent in in a W shape to it goes between the back plate and the lower trunnion.

ptitterington wrote:Do you work under there with just the axle stands or do you put any blocks and things as well. Just as I have had one skid out once, fortunately I was not underneath but it did some damage to the car. (Not a moggy though, an Austin 1100)

Loads of people have been doing that for years.
the secret to using them safely is to tap each leg of the stand with a jack handle. when they all sound the same, the stand is properly loaded.

right I'll redo them the other way up then, the flexi pipe does strain on full lock, so there's a reason for everything.[frame][/frame]

i have several areas of parts missing, the lock nuts for the flexible hoses and the rear hose bracket is missing, easy enough to fabricate one to weld onto the chassis. That then supports the weight of the hose connection
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found the handbrake springs though, thanks for that Chris.[frame][/frame]

happy to help!

the correct way up, not the worlds greatest spelling of the letter W, probably the worst In Morris History, but on full lock both ways the pipes are clear from any pinching from any moving parts.[frame][/frame]