Morris Minor Owners Club

B o B,

Thanks for the message, looks like you left it even longer than I did

I finished fitting poly bushes to the front end and also a couple of washers totalling 8mm thickness to shim out the eye bolt on either side.

This has provided the negative camber and absolutely transformed the feel of suspension, steering and the general driving experience

Imvvho, anyone who hasn't done poly bushes and negative camber really should. It's not expensive, not difficult and right up there in terms of payback per £.

It also gave me the chance to grease everything and replace the split rubber boot on the NS track-rod end, an advisory from the previous MOT which has clearly decayed. The ball/socket was in good condition.

I have yet to set the tracking so can't comment on tyre wear yet.[frame][/frame]

Split rubber on track rod end.[frame][/frame]
What's going on inside - strange bent washer.[frame][/frame]
What came out off and what went back.

Having been chauffeured home by the junior mechanic last night I can certainly confirm that her roundabouts-at-speed technique must be contributing to tyre wear.

Wouldn't have it any other way

Next up Hif 38 carb on separate inlet, can't wait.

Pete

Hif 38 - more carb, more petrol, more noise, more go.

I've spent a few weeks gathering the parts and illiciting advice in the mechanical thread on the forum, thanks to all who indulged me, so now the what I did and what I got bit.

Lots of photos because I like other peoples.

I started by cleaning up the Hif 38 1.5" carb won on ebay. It was a bit sticky inside but cleaned up easily. Nothing complicated and no new bits required.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

Next up the standard combined manifold.

The best advice is that the link of the heat of the exhaust to the carb inlet in a single casting is not good.

So as many others before me I cut the inlet from a second original manifold. I have kept the one originally from the car incase I want to revert to it at some stage.[frame][/frame]
Exhaust only manifold after the inlet element was cut off.[frame][/frame]

Then the fun and easy part - fitting the 'new' bits.

Standard 1098 with 1.25" SU on standard combined manifold.[frame][/frame

2 cables, a few hose clamps, 6 nuts, an exhaust clamp and everything came off in one piece.[frame][/frame]

Leaving this behind -[frame][/frame]

Here's what then went on -[frame][/frame]

First the exhaust only manifold.[frame][/frame]
I really should have cleaned up the block and replaced the tappet cover gaskets but the call of petrol was way too loud.

Next up the separate inlet manifold carrying the 'new' Hif 38 carb[frame][/frame]
The hoses top to bottom are:
- servo vacuum pipe
- rocker cover breather
- carb overflow discharging below the exhaust
- petrol supply

The thin clear pipe is a rather dodgy extension for the dizzy vacuum advance pipe (works ok).

Don't look too hard at a further manifestation of my metal work skills - extension pieces for the brackets on the heater pipe.

I retained the existing pipe again on advice that to run water through the inlet manifold is at odds with the plan to isolate it from the heated exhaust manifold

Final installation with k&n filter, again off ebay.

Choke cable not connected as I figured it would be easy to extend but ultimately couldn't work out a solution.

Throttle cable was the only new part and was as everything else v easy to complete [frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

Setting up/tuning was very easy following threads available on the forum and as a value for money half day's work is terrific. A really appreciable change in performance

The downside, plenty of induction noise, too much for the junior mechanic who uses Boris as her daily driver so a further evening's work and everything is now back as was.

Nice shiny Hif38 setup sitting on the shelf for looking at

It is possible to modify the original air cleaner mounting plate to fit the HIF 38. That way you will loose the induction noise.
If you feel so inspired, the new choke cable sold at ESM, and others, is longer than the one on the car and fits the HIF.

Roni,

Thanks for the advice sounds like a good option

Do you have any idea if fitting the modified air cleaner plate takes away the improvement of fitting the Hif38 carb?

Thanks

Pete

The original 1098 air cleaner housing is unfortunately a bit restrictive, even for the HS2. The tube is the main culprit, but this is the main way it silences the intake. You might be better off looking for a Mini or Metro air cleaner that sits horizontally and connects to the carb with an elbow. It will breathe better and silence the intake flow.

Roni,

That's a good thought but my wife has decreed that I've had enough carbs and need to sought out the heater.

An easy fit of 88 degree thermostat is apparently the solution - we'll see.

A quick win will also be to refit the gear lever gaiter as this is still off following fitting the reversing light switch.

I really ought to connect this to the reversing light whilst I'm at it

Pete

I finally got round to changing the thermostat today - 3 months later than planned

Whilst at it I added some antifreeze and in topping up via the heater hose got everything rather damp.

A run round the block to enjoy the improved heating ended in limping home with a chronic misfire

Just for entertainment if the video works and to my renewed embarrassment the result of not cleaning up afterwards

The photo shows the standard set up and the video shows the short (running along the river) from the coil lead across to the dizzy cap retaining clip.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

Shame, the video doesn't work

Any ideas?

Pete

If it's hosted somewhere like you tube, just post a link, not sure that this site allows video uploads.