Morris Minor Owners Club

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When is this thing going to be finished dad because i want to go a run in it
GLEN

getting there
the old girl
breaths new life
here is to another 20 years of happy motoring[frame][/frame]

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Beautiful! Come help me now? Coolthanks

cheers many thanks
just stick at it
your just starting out in life and seem to have the right frame of mind to see it through
only wish i had started a lot earlier on this restoration route so satisfying at the completion of all those days and nights working in the garage to produce a fine working machine
there are a lot of things that you cant see in the photos that are far from pleasing me but======== but
hey ho we are not perfect
if we were nearer i most certainly would give you some help

jagnut66 wrote:Looks really good.

cheers getting there one day at a time

Been looking at your jig trying to link but having problems any chance of sharing your measurements so I can build one for my morris 1000 cheers

Yea no problem,
will try for pictures and sizes tomorrow for you,only too glad to help.
pity your so far away, because you could have borrowed it,still if you go to your blacksmiths , as I did, I didn't pay anymore than 35 to 40 pounds for the steel.

Thank you for your time and help appreciate it a lot

here is a close up of the angle iron at the bumper iron
[frame][/frame][frame]this shows the block and tackle it is needed to raise the car to the required height as jacking it up is too much for the trolly jack ,which is okay for the rear end
[/frame][frame]a close up of the rearmost stand
unfortunatly the cross section that bolts to the car is at my brothers garage as you can see in the photo its just an angle iron but the upright that is welded to it need to be 40 x 40 mm on the inside and about a foot long ,this slides up and down and has several holes along its length to vary the balance point
the square tube on the stand is outside size is 40mm x 40 mm
the overall height to the centre pivot point needs to be about 47 inches(mine was only 43 inches and it being a traveller it needed some 4 inch blocks to raise it clear of the floor

[/frame][frame]the spread of the legs is 4 feet and i found the piece of wide scrap metal bolted to the legs was the strongest way the stop any side to side movement
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above pic is of the front stand as you can see the circle plate has taken a bashing this is due to the balance not being spot on and should have been made slightly heavier steel( and it dosent need to be round) there was a slip bolt welded to the stand which allowed you to lock it in whatever position was required[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

the feet were detacable and were slid in or out of the slightly larger square section ,this is superb for storage space ,if you select the proper sizes of tube sections there is no forward or backward movement
this is easy when you go to your blacksmiths workshop and try them out.

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I can't thank u enough for this it helps me a lot let u know how I get on cheers. Steve

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Manic morris wrote:I can't thank u enough for this it helps me a lot let u know how I get on cheers. Steve

Hi Steve again struggling with bits for front of jig any help would be appreciated thanks.

Manic morris wrote:Hi Steve again struggling with bits for front of jig any help would be appreciated thanks.

just seen your post, ,,, send me some pics of how far you have got too
what's missing , or at least not showing on the pics is the slip bolt but that is welded on to suit the holes you have drilled in the front plate send photos of it please

http://m.youtube.com/results?q=rollover%20jig&sm=3
here is a good view of this jig and give you some guidance