Morris Minor Owners Club

No, there shouldn't be any space between the damper arm and the trunnion. I'd suggest that perhaps the lower portion of the kingpin, maybe the lower trunnion, is misaligned somehow, and thusly preventing the trunnion from seating correctly.

What doesn't make sense is, both nuts look done up...but how can that possibly be?! Perhaps if you used another thick washer?

hello I put new trunnion bushes on and put a new pin in to and tightened it all up and I have the same gap

hello I put new trunnion bushes on and put a new pin in to and tightened it all up and I have the same gap

The shaft is tapered to fit the tapered hole in the arm, you can't pull it through any more no matter how tight you have the nut! Once the tapers meet, that's it. to reduce the gap you would need to skim the taper. It may be that the tapers vary with pattern parts.

I think it's probably a problem with the reproduction part, I'm afraid...

You'll find if you drive like that, the steering will be very heavy (keen to self-centre) due to the increased castor angle.

I don't know what to suggest as a solution though. Short of asking the supplier if they've had any other complaints.

Yes it' seems odd Fin & Greeney, but Les's explanation makes perfect sense, The taper is locked in place it's not going anywhere.
The hub is back from the garage, the bearings correctly seated, everything nice and tight and waiting for tommorows re-test.[frame][/frame]

Chris, just noticed your post, will the MOT tester have an agenda to fail it on this point? If I can get it through I can work on it without the ten day deadline for the retest.

Great she passed her MOT. the only advisories are Bolts missing from the timber bed, the rear leaf spring rubber bush looks worn, and engine oil leak. Great I get a rest from cycling to work and remonstrating with silly motorists who go right across roundabouts without looking ahead. A few bits to put right this spring, I'm taking the wood bed off and re fitting with ALL new fixings. Change the rear bushes for Polys and later this year might get the engine out to stop that leak from the oil pump.[frame][/frame]

Congrats!

Well done David....the smile says it all !!
Bob

I thought they all leaked oil and it was regarded as a form of rustproofing!

Well done on getting her through though. Now enjoy!

Thank you all for the moving comments, now she's passed I can relax a little and get on with those non essential tasks, and the first of these is the annoying oil leak, I know Jagnut, it gives rustproofing underneath, but it's expensive on longer trips.
The newspaper gives me the idea it's not just one place, so before I go off and blow the whole £20 on a screw on oil filter kit. I'll just do a few checks first.[frame][/frame]

so off came the Chest cover that is attached to the breather pipe, someone wisely commented somewhere in the many pages of the noticeboard, that internal pressure can cause oil to be forced out...[frame][/frame]

So the pipe is my prime suspect here.[frame][/frame]

David
Stating the bl_ _ _ _ obvious, its a good clean up of both surfaces, a new gasket and a new fibre washer under the bolt head.
Check condition of the rubber hose and if OK, clean up in a bath of degreaser.An old bottle brush is useful, otherwise a strip
of cloth ,held by a length of wire twisted around it and pulled through the pipe.
Don't over tighten the bolt holding down the gasket otherwise you will deform it.
Bob

Thanks Bob, that old gasket has seen better days, it's the original one, never been changed, so after a clean up, of the steel breather pipe inside and out, and that's the point of the whole excersize, to let gasses and pressure vent out to atmosphere from the crank case. A scrape of the mating faces and new gaskets and washer, away we go
[frame][/frame]

during the test drive over my favourite test route, North Lancing & over the South Downs, the steering was responsive and light, the front suspension was firm.Now she's back in the garage with a sheet of newspaper in the drip tray, I wonder if cleaning out the pipe has helped with regard to oil drips?[frame][/frame]

David,was wondering about your canvas tilt, do you know if it's waterproof ?

yes it is Les, it's been out in the rain on several occasions this year, Ive added two shaped battens to span across the back and prevent sagging due to water collection. My next move is to give it a coat of dubbing to prolong it's life.

well, this was a clean sheel of paper earlier on, the drips of oil look like the oil filter (top left) Ive ordered a spin on kit from ESM.[frame][/frame]

and here it is, the spin on kit I ordered from ESM, unfortunately I ordered it too late in the morning for it to arrive the following morning, so I'm out of time to fit it today, next Thursday is earmarked for this challenge. If I remember correctly, fitting the oil header pipe back onto the engine block took me well into the night, holding it against it's natural tendency to spring back out of the screw position. This time I may leave the pipe attached and spin on the filter mount, might be less trouble. Might also be a good moment to replace that header pipe altogether, easy to fit on it's own.[frame][/frame]

Be careul not to break the pipe too - they are very delicate! Will need two spanners - one to hold the union that goes into the filter head and one to undo the union on the pipe itself. Going back a couple of photo's - did you change both tappet cover gaskets or just the one? may also be worth doing the other if it is in the same condition as the first one was

Thanks Bruce, Ive got it noted down for next thursdays workathon, as you say, It's just as bad as the one with the pipe. Ive added a video that my son Harry took of his journey in the pickup last night...

http://youtu.be/dXpogL_2IV0