Morris Minor Owners Club

it didn't, I swapped the rubber around so the raised rubber portion entered the filter element and it reduced the height enough to fit. It's the first time Ive fitted the filter up correctly, so far it's been running unfiltered, lucky Ive had so many oil changes. I'm now test running and looking for leaks, so far so good. Thanks for the tip Gents.[frame][/frame]

Personally I wouldn't have done that, If any bits break off they may clock oil ways up and cause damage and even more likley is the oil will perish/rot the rubber pad into a gloop that will do the same

I agree, you must have had a brainstorm to do that! If you're that desperate I'll have a look for a plate and send it to you!

Ive taken it out and replaced it with a large metal washer till the real thing arrives from ESM. Thanks for all the input and advice fellas.

Fit a 'spin-on' oil filter and be done with it!

I had considered fitting one of those spin on filters Millerman, but it means removing the housing and re-fitting the modified one, it took ages to re-fit the oil takoff last time, so I'm exploring this first. This is the part thats been missing all this time, At the moment a wide steel washer is doing this parts job, when I come to renew the oil filter next time this will replace that washer.[frame][/frame]

after fitting the washer the oil has been actually travelling through the filter element. First time since the rebuild that has been happening, today I went for a long drive and so far oil loss has only been minimal, a great improvment over the pint per hour I was loosing on long runs. the one large washer has done quite a lot. Nice clean dry exterior of the engine.
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or so I thought.... after a dipstick check this morning I discovered I was down by a pint again, so off came the rocker cover.[frame][/frame]

the cork gasket was all crushed and compressed..[frame][/frame]
the breather pipe was all gunked up like it has a cold[frame][/frame]
the new cork gasket has this strange cross piece that simply gets in the way, it would bridge over the rockers and distort the gasket[frame][/frame]

the new gasket modified to remove the centre cross piece.[frame][/frame]
once that was carefully bolted down to lightly squeeze the gasket without crushing it's oil proof ability, I checked out the gearbox filler plug to check the oil level there.
The oil spilled out when I undid the plug spewing oil out onto my garage floor. I didn't overfill it last time, could oil increase in volume when it gets older?[frame][/frame]

the oil is still brimming at the filler plug hole, so I just replaced the plug and left it at that, strange why it would flow out like that. Guess oil expands same as any other fluid as it warms up. This was after a short drive to test my new cork gasket[frame][/frame]

the cross peice on the gasket is for storage only
pretty obvious you take it off when assembling

I didn't know that and I bought one with the cross piece.
Good idea as they do tend to develop a waist over time.

That breather pipe didn't take long to clog up!

I've never had one of those gaskets myself, but I imagine you could get away with just cutting one slit in the 'bridge' piece. Then tuck it around the rocker shaft so it touches itself when in place. It would help keep the sides of the gasket spread out to ensure ideal positioning.

Not such a problem on the standard rocker covers, as they have little plates on the inside edges to hold the gasket out, but on my alloy one, there's not such facility and I end up have to hold the sides of the gasket out with a little screwdriver while I tighten the bolts!

Chris, would be terrible if the cut end got caught up in the rockers, "Disaster" as that camp judge on stricktly would say.
Les has highlighted on Jallen's pickup resto thread that my one piece floor may be the cause of my banging every time I go over the speedbumps at the office carpark. I could either cut the floor in two and fit the metal band Les mentioned, or fit a strip of timber under the floor over the rear suspension cross member, and use wood screws to attach the floor to that. But I still need some insulation between the steel floor either side and that same cross piece. Who makes them? Can't see it on Bull or ESM'S website[frame][/frame]

If you could get hold of some leather belt material about 6mm thick and 50mm wide then cut to 150mm in length you would be pretty original. The belt I'm thinking of is/was used to drive industrial machinery, maybe not too easy to come across but you may have some contacts.

(1) Photo of bar for the top of rear crossmember
(2) Photo of packers ( chassis to floor sides)

Thanks Les that simple solution has fixed the problem, no more bumping when I encounter speed humps. Great. Mind you on the test drive I fixed one thing and two things went wrong. The indicators stopped working, a loose/broken connection at the steering cowling, then just as I managed to get home, a serious rattle from underneath, sounds like the exhaust bracket needs a nip up. Lucky I'm off Tommorow to fix them both.[frame][/frame]

David
I can see from therecent posts that the little pick up is giving you endless hours of fun ?
Your mechanical and electric knowledge is improving and there are less mysteries to solve, as each little problem unfolds.
Part of the enjoyment of running a classic car.
( Having fixed my horn, I'm back into the garage to see if the bonnet release cable repair on my car has worked ? The glue should have dried and hopefully the outer cable will not part company from the fixing / pull handle again. )
Regards
Bob

thanks Bob, it's a strange coincidence that you mention your horn fix and glue drying, we are connected there today. After wobbling the exhaust from manifold to tail end,I discovered the rattle was caused by my home made bracket coming adrift, so with the welder cranked up to it's highest setting for more penetration into the metal of the Chassis, I replaced the bracket with a stronger weld.[frame][/frame]

With the end bolted up it now holds it away from the suspension, cracked my hand a "goodun" with the spanner slipping off at full load, youch! Still, never mind, thats completed now.[frame][/frame]

So onto the disconnected indicator wire, the actual dismantling of the steering wheel, ignition cowling took seconds, and I was able to get a good look at the problem. As you can see by this shot looking at it from front to rear, the electrical eye connector has broken off.[frame][/frame]

The fixing is pop rivetted by the looks of it, so I reconnected it, re-connected the battery and operated the lever to see if that was the correct location, all worked fine, a spot of well mixed two part araldite expoxy resin, just to hold it in place.
Quick test to see if it's still working while the glue dries. yep thats fine...[frame][/frame]