Morris Minor Owners Club

The W front brake set I am using at present are standard W cylinders - and the Minor repair kits fit them just fine, so they will go on 'for ever'. My spare set are on new Minor cylinders - yet to be needed. Can't decide whether to fit them or not!!

Ive put a comment about the minor cylinders, also split the very long 3 pages into 7 much shorter pages... so now it doesnt take ages to load.

Picky

Come on Picky - how about an update on progress ?

He'll be too busy lazing about and getting drunk - i mean he needs the practice as not long till the start of UNI

ive been ill recently, and penicillin is making me drowsy - didnt think troubleshooting the fuel pump would be wise! it appears that I have a fuel pump meant be inside the fuel tank, so even though I have it connected via rubber hose at either end there is another small gap that spurts out fuel when the pump is running... the project has been funded by my little ebay business, which is not doing too well recently so I have no money for an "out of tank" pump!!

so thats the update on progress I'm afraid....

Picky

http://www.pickmantechnologies.com/s/page8.htm

I leave for uni this saturday, so unfortunately the morris has to stay at home in my parents garage... I'm not sure when it will be finished, as I cant store it anywhere at uni, but I will be giving it another go over the christmas holidays... thank you to everyone who has offered advice and parts and support towards the project, and the 8,000 hits on this topic!

Picky

It's a great project - I take my hat off to you - what a shame you didn't get the engine running even just without the charger so you could have the use/fun of it. I still think a Mini tank with pump inside will be the way to go - that little leak is probably to keep the pump cool by circulating some fluid all the time.

ive got an old hs4 carb i could fit, and then take off the supercharger belt and it would be driveable, but to me that is not acheiving anything at all!! it would just be an engine..

More progress WILL be made at christmas, or maybe sooner, have to see what happens...

Picky

right got back home this evening, first term of uni all a bit of a haze but will be in the garage first thing tomorrow working on the project. turbo carb has not come through the post yet, bit of a blow but the fuel pump has arrived.. watch this space.

Picky

Well done - keep at it!

ok new fuel pump and turbo carb fitted, fails to start, even with supercharger removed. dont seem to be getting a spark, points flash when opened by hand, ive fitted a new condenser but there is no improvement. going to go over the electrics with a multimetere tommorow, but I cant think what the problem is. ideas??

You getting fuel through?
Have you got fuel?
Remembered to put the rotor arm back on? (just in case youve pickled your brain @ Uni )
If the coils working, and no spark at the plugs maybe the dizzy cap?
Hasnt gotten damp whilst you've been away?
Knocked a wire off somewhere when fitting the carb?

Just need to track it down - ie connect a plug direct to coil then flick the points. If it sparks then points/capacitor/coil are ok and you need to look to the dizzy cap (little carbon brush present and correct?) and rotor arm (is it actually turning when you turn the engine ?) and then general state of HT leads etc. It could be wildly wrong timing - if the spark comes when dizzy is halfway between contacts on the cap - then the spark won't appear!

ill check all those pointers tomorrow thanks bmc, but i still dont understand the points flashing when u pull them apart. with the condenser working correctly I though there should be no flash across the points at all?? there is an easily visible flash. can it theoretically work without the condenser, just with very short life of the points?

Excellent!!! you are back at it again. Hope you get it sorted soon. Really like this project.
all the best, michael.

picky wrote:ill check all those pointers tomorrow thanks bmc, but i still dont understand the points flashing when u pull them apart. with the condenser working correctly I though there should be no flash across the points at all?? there is an easily visible flash. can it theoretically work without the condenser, just with very short life of the points?

I've had brand new condensors that were faulty "out of the box" so suspect that is what you might have.
Without a working condensor I think you will have trouble starting.
Any old condensor can be used pro tem to get it running if you haven't a proper one available. Doesn't have to be inside the distributor the same as original.

Paul Humphries

Yup theres that golden rule - NEVER assume just because somethings new it works.

It can be simply made to run with a radio suppressor tacked on the outside of the dizzy - from terminal to earth! The condenser acts with the coil to store energy which is then released as a pulse - resulting in the HT spark. No condenser = very weak spark.

bit of progress, using a multimeter the centre of the dizzy cap to the carbon brush does not appear to conduct very well. coil is working, since putting the coil HT-out lead near an earth gives good sparks when engine is turning over.

When I connect the multimeter to both ends of a free HT lead, it reckons there is no circuit, yet they must conduct as one of them conducted a spark to earth... weird. Will purchase new dizzy cap and yet another condenser.

Measuring the resistance of HT leads gives different results, depending on the type of leads being used. Copper core leads should measure short circuit or about 5K Ohms if using suppressed type plug caps. Silicon leads with carbon core should measure between 5K to 15K depending on the length of the lead.

A thing to watch out for with the side entry dizzy cap, is to make sure that the lead grub screw bites into the HT lead centre core.

JFYI Even if a HT lead measurers open circuit, a good spark will jump the gap in the lead but provide a weak spark, as some of the energy is lost.