Morris Minor Owners Club

Matt I hope these are ok, love to see the finished chassis when you've built it[frame][/frame]

the van alignment check as well matt. Marky, yes it would be a fiddle trying to weld on splash covers under the floor holes, any ideas on that, I can't let water build up inside. Just re read your comment and thats quite an idea, I'll practice on some scrap metal see If I can get that to work.
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the drain holes under the cab, very carefully designed to let water drain out from above but road spray from below is kept out as well. I'm not rushing into punching in something to drain the cab floor just yet, need to take a considered and carefully planned course of action.[frame][/frame]

started to dismantle the better of the two heaters. There's always one screw that defies the screwdriver, little bit of heat added with the blow lamp and....[frame][/frame]

ooh! its dead grotty in there, still it kindly obliged and opened up its insides for me to gaze on in horror, another micro habitat disturbed. This was as far as I got today, earlier on I made some use of a punch and die set I got from machine mart last month, unfortunatly punched and died my poor old long suffering left thumb.[frame][/frame]

davidmiles wrote:drill a hole then weld in a curved piece underneath the floor where the hole is. surely there's a way?

Just make sure all the door and screen rubber seals are good and no water will get into the cab! Therefore no need for drainage.

Your picture shows drainage holes from the cill if I'm not mistaken, not the main floor which should not have holes, as mentioned by john if the cab leaks you have problems elsewhere, I don't think wet boots would not produce enough water to require drainage !

oh well if it's not meant to have them through the main floor thats one problem eliminated. I wasn't looking forward to making holes in my nice new floor. I need to seal off the cab back to the rear panels, a combination of rubber seals and silicon sealant.

davidmiles wrote:the van alignment check as well matt. Marky, yes it would be a fiddle trying to weld on splash covers under the floor holes, any ideas on that, I can't let water build up inside. Just re read your comment and thats quite an idea, I'll practice on some scrap metal see If I can get that to work.
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Im wondering if you even need to use splash covers ? May be better not having holes in the floor at all and only have simple holes in the sills ? How would water get into the cab area unless it get in on your wellies ? Even if you got some water in the cab from your wellies, surely if you have carpets, the water will evaporate anyway......would have to be a lot of water to cause problems.....

I love the job you are making of your Pick Up. Bet you cant wait until the Spring to finish off the spray work. Im just wondering if its worth your time getting the top coat done professionally so you can be putting it all back together during the winter in your warm garage ? My wife pointed out a load of my paint finish imperfections the other day....makes we wish I had had my top coat done by a pro paint shop.......Ive told her I will drive the car for a year or so and if it starts to niggle me, I will take it in and have it done !!

an interesting idea, as soon as the paint is finished I'll be re-fitting the whole vehicle out and getting the engine tuned up. Anything that'll move things forward has got to be a move in the right direction. Mind you once again Christmas is looming and the call on project funding to once again be diverted to toy castles, knights and plastic swords for dressing up costumes, and thats just me, Ive also got my kids to think of.
Anyway, Ive still got a lot of pre paint prep to be getting on with, those body panels won't flat themselfs.

Having recently seen a very sound pick up that had rotted away the passenger side seat belt mounting point and hardly anything else, I think a drain hole in the floor itself next to the seam of the sill isn't a bad idea.

The reversed scoop might even drag water out, at least it won't scoop it in!

mmmmm something to ponder over during the long winter months, to scoop or not to scoop, that is the question.
In the meantime I'm poking around the heater, the matrix is a brown rusty colour, but appears to be intact. Theres a big crack in the foam rubber spacer. At the moment it looks like it just needs a de-rust and a re-wire and it'll be good to go. [frame][/frame]

Is the heater matrix steel then?
I would have assumed something non ferrous like the main radiator.

Maybe a candidate for a soak in cheap cola, better plan than drinking it anyway .

MarkyB wrote:Is the heater matrix steel then?
I would have assumed something non ferrous like the main radiator.

Maybe a candidate for a soak in cheap cola, better plan than drinking it anyway .

This is an interesting link to DIY electrolysis dipping. Ive not tried it myself, but will have a bash at it next year on a few bits and bobs. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-8vT2mdX ... re=related

Brilliant suggestion swiftland, I'll have a go at this, mind you that yank went on a bit, he could have cut down on "how to fill up a bucket with water" but he got the points over in the end so I Guess thats all that matters. This method would work really well on something where you want to keep the original patina, or, like my heater matrix, you can't wire brush its complex and fine surface. I hope the matrix is ferous metal.[frame][/frame]

This guy explains it rather well. I wish I'd known about this right at the start of my project.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r-nQt9a5IC4

lets try it on the rusty heater front and swivel plate, the black terminal crocodile clip attaches to the piece of work and the red one attaches to the donor metal. its bubbling away quite merrily.[frame][/frame]

like the moped chap on youtube says, don't do this in your house, the hydrogen gas produced will not endear you to your family.
Here's a nice happy scene with rusty bits awaiting their turn in the dip.[frame][/frame]

The surface area of the matrix is huge compared to the lid, interesting that the video says in only works on "line of sight" .

I foresee it taking quite a while and needing a change of water etc. once or twice.

Have you thought about protecting it afterwards?

Im loving this. No mucking around....straight on with the job.... great !! I would love to see how you progress with the front of the heater. Im sure anyone watching this will be having a go too.