Morris Minor Owners Club

Posted: **Thu Sep 23, 2010 7:51 pm**

I used high gloss thinners when i did mine.
btw I agree with other on paint quantity, I used 2 litres on mine in June and that was on a blow over with 2 wings and boot lid from bare metal and a further 1/2 litre last month redoing a few panels I was not happy with.
You need to have enough paint to complete the job, my 2nd tin, whilts mixed at the same supplier has gone on a solightly different shade even though it was mixed by the same person in the same way as the previous tin.

Posted: **Thu Sep 23, 2010 7:59 pm**

I dont know the make,(we have different makes here) but you usually use a fast thinners for the topcoat and if I recall you thin the paint with about 60% thinners.
Usually just use the standard thinners for primer and gun cleaning.(because its cheap).
If the shop told you it was suitable for cellulose they should know.

Posted: **Thu Sep 23, 2010 10:21 pm**

ptitterington wrote:I would say 2l is not going to go very far. When I sprayed the 2 door I used 5l and afterwards wished I had put a lot more paint on. I am sure I read here folk putting 12 coats on.
I am sure a good painter will be along to advise, all the hard work is in the preparation. priming sanding, filling sanding prining, sanding filling and even when you think it is perfect the tiniest blemish, pit will show up after you top coat it with the colour.

Lots of cost involved with wet and dry papers, tack cloths, thinners different fillers its a long list.

It is worth doing yourself, just to appreciate how good the pros are that can a proper job.

I agree with this! Absolutely.

When I painted my convertible, I'm glad I bought 5L of top coat and primer. After allowing for a few mistakes (we do make some!) and putting on several coats to as to allow for wet sanding of the occasional run and orange peel patch, I ended up using 4L of primer and top coat to paint the convertible inside and out. Still have 1l to re-do the engine bay and for touch ups and I have the comfort of knowing the paint will match!

Posted: **Thu Sep 23, 2010 11:09 pm**

I bought high gloss thinners also, it make the whole polishing cutting process much easier! I do think you will need a lot more paint though, I also used 5l of top coat on a 2 door saloon (that included painting under the bonnet, door shuts and dashboard) on the pick up you will have to do inside and outside of the pick up sides and inner wings etc. I would also recommend buying some high build primer as you will want a good depth of primer to paint on.

Purely being nosey here, how much did the top caot cost per litre? The last I bought was £36 per litre and they said they no longer had a full range of colours.

Posted: **Thu Sep 23, 2010 11:38 pm**

Seems 5L is the right quantity for the amateur when doing a good re=spray with cellulose.

Please, all log in to the Migwelding.co.uk site and stick up for me as I was ridiculed by various "sprayers" on the site who insisted you only need 1L of primer and top coat to do a car. Yes, maybe for a cheap and nasty 2K blow over, But not for a good quality DIY cellulose paint finish.

Posted: **Fri Sep 24, 2010 7:49 am**

That is probably because they have never actually tried to paint a car. Even using 5l I wished I had used a fair bit more as I had to sand down for a few touchups where I had caused damage fitting windscreen and a few other bits and was quite shocked how thin the top coat actually was.
The most depressing thing was once finished, and having spent ages killing rust, after a year, rust was back in all the same places. I shall never again use that rubbish that turns it black and says it has gone!

Dave I did a google of that thinners and it is fine for cellulose.

Posted: **Fri Sep 24, 2010 4:47 pm**

We use ordinary thinners for using with the highbuild primer and anti-bloom thinners when spraying the cellulose. Get enough thinners as you will need some for cleaning out the spray gun, after each use and when chainging from primer to cellulose.

Posted: **Fri Sep 24, 2010 5:46 pm**

ok then, 5l minimum, the guy in the shop said I could order the same again any time, I'll order the other three litres together, that way they will match, hopefully I'll be able to spray the last three litres as the last layers. And finish using high gloss thinners. Once this project is painted it will come together at a rate of knots, everything speeds up once the paint has dried.

I found this early image of the pickup, this is how it looked when I first laid eyes on it. Seriously overgrown
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Posted: **Fri Sep 24, 2010 9:19 pm**

You and the pick up sure have come along way since then!!

Posted: **Tue Sep 28, 2010 3:11 pm**

The masking up has started, the glass is now covered, the bonnet needs removing, the engine is covered, lots more still to mask up before I can start spraying the first coats of grey primer. Probably on thursday as the forecast is sunshine in between all this rain[frame]

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Posted: **Tue Sep 28, 2010 3:15 pm**

The grill is cleaning up ok. Sure there's a hint of white under all this, I was wondering what colour it would have been originally, there you go Archaeological evidence of OEW.[frame]

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Posted: **Tue Sep 28, 2010 4:22 pm**

Are you not taking the glass out to paint?

Posted: **Wed Sep 29, 2010 12:34 am**

the front windscreen glass is out, and so are are the quarter lights, the rear glass and wind up window glass have good seals and secure locations so they stay put. Probably not perfect practice, but this is what I'm doing. The weather forecast is good for thursday, so watch out then for some cellulose primer spray results. Probably won't be perfect, but lets see.

Posted: **Wed Sep 29, 2010 8:14 am**

Lets hope you get very light winds also David

Posted: **Wed Sep 29, 2010 5:14 pm**

davidmiles wrote:the front windscreen glass is out, and so are are the quarter lights, the rear glass and wind up window glass have good seals and secure locations so they stay put. Probably not perfect practice, but this is what I'm doing. The weather forecast is good for thursday, so watch out then for some cellulose primer spray results. Probably won't be perfect, but lets see.

Even if there is good rubber, you can still take the glass & rubber out. Belive me, you'll get a far far better finish.

Posted: **Wed Sep 29, 2010 6:20 pm**

agree with rich or it will look like a quick blow over job, and you need to cover the priver behind the seals and rubber glass with top coat or if any water penetrates it will rot the metal

Posted: **Thu Sep 30, 2010 8:05 am**

Thats good advice, its easy to get out and people always look to see if glass has been out on a respray!

One thing, even if you have to hire the compressor for longer, dont topcoat until you ger the body as perfect as possible or you will kick yourself for rushing later. There are some really good paste fillers that sand down much thinner than 2 part bodyfiller for filling all the little scratches and pinholes.

Posted: **Thu Sep 30, 2010 1:51 pm**

I agree with the above advice, take all the windows out before even the priming stage. And after priming use a 1K stopper to fill any scratches visible in the primer or pinholes from the filler ( there will be some!).

And when you have primed a few times, stoppered and flatted and primered again a few times (say 4 coats) then dust the whole car with matt black and flat the whole car down with a block and 600-800 grit paper. Any low areas, scratches etc will be revealed as matt black paint that was not sanded off.

Posted: **Thu Sep 30, 2010 5:03 pm**

Several coats of primer and the first layer of Smoke Grey, Tommorow will be better and I'll achieve more, Ive realised my mixing wasn't involving enough Thinner, it was 50/50 and was still too thick, the HVLP wasn't putting out enough paint in the spray pattern, when I tried increasing the proportion of thinner slightly things moved on far smoother. Flatting back tommorow then further coats, if the weather permits.
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Posted: **Thu Sep 30, 2010 5:15 pm**

Guess Frank Sinatra was not wrong.

Morris Minor Owners Club

Pick up Restoration (Part 2)

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