Fitting a 1275 Engine! Jons dubious guide.

[dunketh]

Having just fitted a 1275 engine I thought I'd share my experience.
Hopefully it'll help any other 'Minor Newbies' who are thinking of doing the same.
I have this as a PDF but nowhere to host it so here goes - mammoth post of the year award stuff.

I'm open to comments, criticism etc...

Fitting an inline 1275 A Engine to a Morris Minor:
First things first, the bonnet needs removing or raising enough to be out of the way.
I removed the split pin on the bonnet stay and used a length of wood to hold the bonnet open as wide as it would go.
On a Minor this is 90 degrees vertical, well out of the way!

You need a jack under the gearbox, not lifting it at all, just suppporting it.
Now you need to remove all the small 13mm bolts that hold the engine to the box, these are easily accessible, some from up top and some from underneath. You can find these around the engine backplate that joins to the gearbox.

Now remove the starter motor. There are two bolts, remove the bottom one first. On mine these were 17mm.
You shouldn't need to disconnect its thick cable, just place it out of the way on the floor of the engine bay.

Now, find the other wires in the bay. There'll be two going to the coil, one to the distributor, one to the oil pressure switch and two to the dynamo. Mark these so you know where they all go and disconnect them.

Disconnect all the water hoses, the fuel hose from the carburettor, the throttle and choke cables and the earthing strap (10mm nut and bolt). Also remove the engine stay bar (Nuts: 1/2" at one end, 9/16ths at the block). Don't forget to remove the water tap cable too!

Remove the front bumper. Two large nuts hold this on.
Now remove the front panel. There should be bolts going all around the outside of the panel. There are also two chrome grill trims to remove. The bolts for these are under each wing. 3 bolts for each trim, each one a different size in my experience!
Lift away the front panel and let the coolant run all over your feet, its all part of the fun.
The reason we've waited this long to do this simple job is so you didn't have to lie in water when undoing the engine/gearbox bolts!

Now you need to unbolt ONE front engine turret from the engine bay floor. Only one is needed, which is good as they're a pig to undo. Undo the single bolt inside the opposing turret (15mm) holding the engine mount.

Unbolt the exhaust clamp and drop the pipe from the manifold.

Now you can lift the engine clean out of the car, lift it at an angle sloping down towards the gearbox and gently wiggle it free off the gearbox spline.

Bits you need to take off from the Minor engine:
Exhaust/inlet manifold.
Clutch and clutch housing, these unbolt from the end of the flywheel and are attached by 1/2" bolts.
(Also unbolt the flywheel itself, we might need it later and its not difficult to remove).
Heater radiator water tap. The MG one is rubbish.
Thermostat housing as the MG one points the wrong direction!!

Preparing the 1275 Engine:
Remove the clutch and whilst it’s off check the flywheel. If it’s connected with six bolts you're in trouble. If it’s four you're fine, the Minor clutch should attach and if it doesn't simply remove the flywheel and attach the Minor one.
Make sure the clutch is lined up central. To do this you need a thick bar wrapped in masking tape, I used a wheel brace. This bar is passed through the clutch center and into the engine, there must be enough tape wrapped around it to be a tight fit so as not to wobble. Now using this bar you can move the clutch around as you tighten down the cover making sure its central in the thrust ring.
Another option would be to BUY a clutch aligning tool, but we don't like spending money do we!

If you have a six bolt flywheel you either need to buy a 'marina-to-minor' flywheel conversion kit, usually around £40 to £60 or you can bodge it like I did!
Two opposing bolt holes on the Minor flywheel line up with two opposing ones on the 6-bolt 1275 crank. Also one stud lines up. One other stud needs cutting/grinding completely off.
Bolting the Minor flywheel on here is perfectly possible but it does mean your flywheel is only being held by two bolts and one stud. As this is effectively 3 holding devices I left it at that. Many people will tell you NOT to do this, I leave it up to you; don't lynch me for giving this advice!

Replace the MG water tap with the Minor one; you'll notice it’s slightly at an angle on the MG engine. Also replace the thermostat housing.
The MG engine needs the Minor exhaust manifold fitted but not the inlet part. The inlet parts will need to be ground off with a grinder. Do not use a hacksaw, the steel is 4mm thick - you'll be dead before you finish!
You'll need a carb/carbs and inlet for the MG engine. You’ll also need an alternator and all the ignition components connected.
Remove any MG turrets from the rubber engine mounts and fit the one you removed from the Minor bay, still attached to the old Minor engine.
Remove the radiator fan and spacer ring behind it.
There's a small breather pot on the front of the engine, this needs flattening on its front side. It’s only as strong as a coke can so a few knocks with a hammer should see it done. Be careful NOT to damage the cover it’s attached to!
Now fit the Morris Minor fan bade, you really need two of these for cooling. Turn this around and make sure it doesn't hit the flattened breather pot, if it just catches carefully bend out the blade that catches.

Preparing the Minor Bay:
The only prep work needed is to cut a small notch out of the battery tray. This is to accommodate the heater tap on the 1275 engine as it now sits at an angle and fouls the tray. A bit of measuring and cutting is alls needed.

Fitting cont'd:
Now you can lower the new 1275 engine straight into the Minor bay, lower it at an angle and gently wiggle* the clutch over the gearbox spline. (*Frantic wiggling and swearing)

TIP: If you are left with a large gap you can pull the engine and box together using a couple of long nuts and bolts fed through the joining bolt holes around the backplate tightened up slowly.

Once the engine and box are pulled together and you've wiggled the engine mounts into position bolt down the front turret you removed and attach the bolt to the other side mount.
Now attach the starter motor and all the other gubbins, hoses, cables etc. It’s obvious where it all goes. Don't forget the earthing strap and engine stay!
Make sure the pipes connected from the front breather on the MG engine to the two carbs are very tight. If they leak the carbs will never run right.
Fit the Minor exhaust to the manifold.
Fill up the engine will coolant and oil and we'll go onto the wiring.

Wiring:
If you've fitted the Morris dynamo to the MG block the wiring will be all the same. Lucky you, although don't cry to me when your wipers slow down and your lights are too dim.

If you have done the decent thing and chucked it in the bin in favour of an Alternator....

Fit the BIG cable from the dynamo to either of the two BIG terminals on the alternator.
Fit the SMALL dynamo cable to the SMALL tab on the alternator.
Now we need to examine the voltage regulator box.
On Terminal E there should be one or two thin black cables. Disconnect this/these and earth it/them to the body.
There should be a thin brown and green wire on Terminal F, disconnect this and connect it to the THIN brown and yellow cable (or plain yellow in some cases) from Terminal D.
Connect the remaining THICK wires from Terminals A, A1 and D all together.

There should now be no wires attached to the voltage regulator. This box can now be removed.
All the other wires in the engine bay can be connected as they were on the Minor engine before.

NOTE: With the dynamo removed there's now nowhere to mount the starter coil. Mount this somewhere in the engine bay, if the leads are long enough mount it to a wing or the bulkhead.

That’s it, barring anything daft that I may have accidentally left out.
This is how I changed my engine. I was sold an 'MG' engine which turned out instead to be a Marina engine so some tiny details may be slightly different. I am not responsible for you doing anything stupid; this is not a definitive guide!

[bigginger]

Two comments I'd be VERY reluctant not to be certain that the fly wheel is connected properly, and be careful when holding the bonnet back - if you use rope to hold it you can snap the hinges very easily...

[rayofleamington]

Lots of useful info there

I leave it up to you; don't lynch me for giving this advice!

two bolts in a flywheel is a pretty bad idea!
Just take it to an engine machinist / rebuilder and explain you need 6 holes on that PCD and it'll be money well spent.
BMC didn't upgrade from 4 holes on the small A series to 6 holes on the 1275s just for fun....
And make sure you use the tab washers too!

There's a small breather pot on the front of the engine, this needs flattening on its front side. It’s only as strong as a coke can so a few knocks with a hammer should see it done. Be careful NOT to damage the cover it’s attached to!

or just cut it in half and weld/braze a plate on the front to make a neat looking job.

A twin fan blade isn't needed unles you are running a highly tuned engine - a standard 1275 will generate not much more heat than a 1098 and a Minor is already overcooled.

[bmcecosse]

Aye - all the 1275 flywheels are held on by 6 bolts. I would be worried about only 2 - I would certainly drill through and get 4 bolts in there. But I think the 1275 flywheel and clutch can be used complete - anyone able to confirm ?? Nit-picking from me is that the bolts holding the engine to gearbox should not be metric - this was a BRITISH car ! So - 1/2" AF spanner - and 5/8" AF for the starter.

[dunketh]

Nit-picking from me is that the bolts holding the engine to gearbox should not be metric - this was a BRITISH car ! So - 1/2" AF spanner - and 5/8" AF for the starter.

I wasn't going to mention sizes to start with as most Minors will have had nuts and bolts replaced with any old clobber over the years - mine certainly has! I mentioned 13mm instead of 1/2 purely because the majority of my tools are metric, I only delve into the pile of old spanners when I really have to. My lack of proper english tools is something I really need to address.

two bolts in a flywheel is a pretty bad idea!
Just taker it to an engine machinist / rebuilder and explain you need 6 holes on that PCD and it'll be money well spent.

I agree, theres a lot of weight spinning very fast but I just thought I'd get away with three fixings (one being the stud) rather than 4 on the Minor.
I have a spare minor flywheel and the marina one for comparison and will be getting the minor one drilled as soon as I can afford it. (I'm totaly broke atm)

But I think the 1275 flywheel and clutch can be used complete - anyone able to confirm ??

Nope, certainly not the later 70's on cars. The clutch and housing is tiny. Although the splined area is the same there's not enough adjustment in the clutch pedal to move the thrust washer into contact with the 1275 clutch. The bigger minor clutch housing won't fit to the 1275 flywheel. You'd have to drill and tap every hole needed.

[rayofleamington]

Nope, certainly not the later 70's on cars. The clutch and housing is tiny. Although the splined area is the same there's not enough adjustment in the clutch pedal to move the thrust washer into contact with the 1275 clutch

AFAIK the midget clutch is roughly the same size as the 948 minor.
As regards the thrust bearing - the 1098 has a short one due to the bigger clutch, so one from any other Minor should fit the 1275 clutch.

I have used a midget clutch on a 1275 mated to a 1098 gearbox - so it is possible. The midget clutch doesn't have a good reputation for smoothness but I didn't really notice.

[bigginger]

two bolts in a flywheel is a pretty bad idea!
Just taker it to an engine machinist / rebuilder and explain you need 6 holes on that PCD and it'll be money well spent.

I agree, theres a lot of weight spinning very fast but I just thought I'd get away with three fixings (one being the stud) rather than 4 on the Minor.
I have a spare minor flywheel and the marina one for comparison and will be getting the minor one drilled as soon as I can afford it. (I'm totaly broke atm)

Hmm, I know the feeling When I say "reluctant", I really mean I wouldn't under any circumstances. I'm not altogether fond of my legs/face/life, but they're what I've got, so I may as well keep them

[Peetee]

A lot of useful info there.
But I would disgree with the bit about separating the manifold. It is possible with a senior hacksaw - but it is hard work!

[dunketh]

Took long enough with a grinder!

I hope it helps some folk, I hadn't a clue what I was doing when I started. I've changed the diff and done basic mechanical jobs on other cars before but nothing to this scale.
The information's out there but never in 'one place' when you need it.

[bigginger]

No, it's great to see it Could be headed foor 'useful tips', I reckon...

[bmcecosse]

I'm sure the Spridget flywheel and clutch will be fine - the marina version surprises me - but it was mated to a completely different box, so i suppose i shouldn't be surprised! Yes - I too have cut exhaust away from inlet - trick is to cut into the inlet - to be sure of NOT cutting into the exhaust if that's the bit you want.

[rayofleamington]

I too have cut exhaust away from inlet

me 3 - I can't remember using the angle grinder so it was probably a full size hacksaw.

[minor_hickup]

If you have done the decent thing and chucked it in the bin in favour of an Alternator....

Fit the BIG cable from the dynamo to either of the two BIG terminals on the alternator.
Fit the SMALL dynamo cable to the SMALL tab on the alternator.
Now we need to examine the voltage regulator box.
On Terminal E there should be one or two thin black cables. Disconnect this/these and earth it/them to the body.
There should be a thin brown and green wire on Terminal F, disconnect this and connect it to the THIN brown and yellow cable (or plain yellow in some cases) from Terminal D.
Connect the remaining THICK wires from Terminals A, A1 and D all together.

There should now be no wires attached to the voltage regulator. This box can now be removed.
All the other wires in the engine bay can be connected as they were on the Minor engine before.

So if i was to get hold of an alternator and a bracket to hold it thats all I need to do to fit it?

[rayofleamington]

If you've fitted the Morris dynamo to the MG block the wiring will be all the same. Lucky you, although don't cry to me when your wipers slow down and your lights are too dim.

If you have done the decent thing and chucked it in the bin in favour of an Alternator....

There are still some people who prefer reliability over getting towed home by the AA.... Dynamo's are not dead by a long shot.
If you do join the bandwagon, then there's no need to chuck the dynamo away - keep it in a draw ready to re-fit when the alternator packs up 3 months later ;-)

[aupickup]

you can buy from esm a special adaptor for the heater valve , this is basically a tall spigot so you can use the original morris minor heater valve, saves all that cutting.

i would be concerned as others are about the fly wheel, i would buy the proper one and be safe.

i have seen a lot of flattened breather pipes, best to cut the front off and weld a flat plate

[Peetee]

So if i was to get hold of an alternator and a bracket to hold it thats all I need to do to fit it

The pulley is a different size so you will need a different fan belt.

[Onne]

that's easy. Any motorfactor should be able to help. Halfords may not know what a fan belt is though

[les]

don't lynch me for giving this advice!

Ok electric chair then.

[minor_hickup]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CAPRI-CORTINA-ESC ... dZViewItem

So is this one right?

[minor_hickup]

Also would I just need an adjustment bracket, because I looked on the ESM site and It has a mounting bracket as well.