Welding at last!!!

[Multiphonikks]

So the other day Pyoor and I had a go on my new welding toy I've been lent for the course of the restoration.

She also brought over her camera so...



I've since learnt from a friend that I shouldn't have been leaning over the weld so I won't do that again.

I am glad however that I've got all the right equipment. Welding gets pretty hot! I can highly recommend the helmet style visors as oppose to the "hold in front" type (I have both). It's amazing how much light I needed though. These things get pretty dark.

Hebe's old wing is in a much worse state than it looks in the picture which is why we're using it for welding practice. There's some other photos I'll dig out later


Any other tips anyone would like to give me?

Thanks!!!

Nikki

[chickenjohn]

I think the Jerry can two feet from the welding sparks with "flammable liquid" sticker on it is a nice touch. Especially on April 1st ;)

[Cam]

Any other tips anyone would like to give me?

Practice, practice and... oh yes, practice!

You might find it easier (assuming you are right handed) to use your left hand as a 'steady' to rest the torch on. If you hold the torch how you are in the picture then you won't have accurate control of the tip.

Where you stand doesn't really matter as long as you are close enough to see the weld pool clearly and the torch is not in your line of vision. Don't be afraid to get close to the weld pool as it really helps with accuracy and neatness.

Use LOADS of light, it really helps.

Once you can do neat 'runs' on the wing, try attaching some steel to it. Practice lap joints, T-joints and Butt joints.

Also, just as important as welding is being able to use a grinder properly.

A bit later on as a practice, cut a 2" square hole in the wing (neatly) and butt-weld in a 2" square patch. Then grind it down and when you get it perfect the join should be invisible when looking at the bare steel.

You might also find that wearing a baseball cap backwards under the visor protects the top of your head and your neck from sparks & bits of flying molten weld!

[bigginger]

I'd recommend a cotton boiler suit, preferably fire 'proofed' - the nylon is tricky to get out of a burn on your skin (how DO the sparks always manage to find the way to skin?) when you get one

[Cam]

The down the shoe/down the gauntlet/in the ear sparks are always amusing as they make you shift a bit sharpish!

[bigginger]

My personal best was on the inside of my leg, two inches below the groin... Does make one think carefully about ones posture and proximity to the weld

[chickenjohn]

Agree with the above posts! A decent fireretardant overall, like the "Dickies" ones can cut down on the sparks hitting bare skin!

here are some tips is posted a year or so ago...

I was in almost the same position as you- traveller needed welding, needed to learn to weld! In fact thats what i've been doing the last 3 months. Cutting, shaping metal, welding...

First of all- don't get a gasless welder- I've heard they are oops I typed a naughty word, the Clark turbo 250 te is a good one, 150 amps gives plenty of power in reserve.

I'd say you also need to get a few other things:-

1. pub gas bottle- can be refilled for ~£20 (needs a regulator-about £50 ish)
2. angle Grinder with cutting discs (I like 1mm cutting discs)), and grinding disks.
3. decent weldin g helmet, by that I mean an automatic one that darkens when you strike the arc- well worth the £100.
4. Decent leather gauntlets.
5. decent fire retardant cotton overalls
6. fire extinguisher
7. a spot weld cutting drill is ideal if you decide to remove the whole inner wing.
8. Lots of clean degreased steel of about 1mm thickness to practise on.

It took me about two years of occasional practise, and lots of asking tips and advice from professional welders in the local MM club, before I felt confident enough in my welding to work on my car.

Practise lap welds (a small overlap between the two pieces of steel to be welded) to start with as they are easier to master without blowing holes. Then try butt welding. (where the two edges of the pieces are "butted" together).

On the turbo 150 TE, I set the voltage to 2/ minimum for thin metal (inner wings etc) and two maximum for thicker stuff (chassis). wire speed to around 4. Don;t overtighten the wire feed rollers, set the co2 on your regulator so when you pull the trigger you can just hear it hiss. Use 0.6mm mig wire and 0.6mm contact tips. Have a supply of contact tips because they do knacker up and need replacing. Some folk prefer 0.8mm. I've used both.

Steel needs to be absolutely clean and de greased and free of paint, underseal, rust, waxoyle ect before welding it. I use a rotary wire brush attachment on my grinder which takes everything off in seconds, leaving you with bare steel. If there is an overlap or you are welding the last piece closing a box section, then use weld through primer this is zinc based and you need to let it dry before welding with it.

What else?? dont try to weld to pitted metal, even if all the rust is removed, as you will end up blowing holes.

Take your time, and don't skimp on materials, equipment or preparation time!

I'll post more when I think of it.

[bigginger]

Shout if you want to borrow joddlers/grinders/clamps etc - or even if you run out of gas when the shops are shut. Which you will Oh, and also if you want to use the spot welder - though it needs a 30A supply, so the job may have to come to it unless you happen to have one...

[chickenjohn]

Yes, when you've finished welding for the day ALLWAYS double check the cylinder valve is switched off.

[rayofleamington]

Any other tips anyone would like to give me?

I was going to recommend the baseball cap backwards to protect your hair.
Well, I find less is more. Wearing lots of protection and thick leather gloves etc can make the job worse - you need plenty of free movement.
I prefer to weld in a T shirt instead of old jumper etc... as the only time I've had nasty burns is when the weld spater gets under clothes. If it lands on skin it will fall off.
Obviously, burn proof overalls are good if you've got them.

DONT wear leather gauntlets with open cuffs - this is far more likely to cause naty burns as spatter will drop down the cuff and embed itself in your hand/wrist making a serious burn before you can get the gloves off. Either don't wear them (and put up with a little bit of pain, not to mention dodgy suntan) or make sure the cuffs are not open.
Same goes with boots - open ankles will sooner or later lead to a nasty burn when the weld spatter gets down there, so if I'm wearing trousers, they need to be long enough to cover the boot ankles.

Ears - if you are welding underneath a car, make sure your ears are covered (same problem as open cuffs - they act as a funnel for spatter). I have had burns in my inner ear once too often and therefore make best efforts to cover my ears unless I'm upright (I expect there are one or 2 people out there with seriously damaged hearing when spatter got too far into their inner ear).

Bucket of water and a cup. Most small fires (e.g. burning paint nearby etc..) can be put out just by blowing on them. If that doesn't work, spraying a mouthfull of water has always worked for me. In ther event that you've accidentally set fire to something else in the garage, the bucket of water is going to be needed in a hurry.
best bet is to move anything flamable at least 10 feet away from where you aremwelding.

[Multiphonikks]

Thanks guys And yes, that flammable jerry can hasn't ever been used for petrol... and if I get my own way it never will be now ;)

Oh, and as a side...

If I'm needing more current to get a penetration in the steel than the manual suggests (I got one with the welder which states what the current and voltage should be for a given metal thickness) and my earth return strap is a bit grotty is that what could be causing the problem?

I think I need a new clamp - this one has been cleaned up but isn't the best!

[rayofleamington]

If I'm needing more current to get a penetration in the steel than the manual suggests

Ignore the manual - turn upm the current until you blow holes then turn back down a bit until you can weld without quickly blowing a hole. This way you'll get good weld penetration. After a while you'll learn your favourite settings. The speed which you move the torch will affect how high the current can go, therefore is is partly an individual thing,.
For anything regarding 'technique' mine is still a bit poor

[bigginger]

Compared to mine, his is PERFECT

[jonathon]

Nikki, you should really use a welding mask too as the fumes given off are patriculary nasty. Keep the earth as close as possible to the job too, you could also invest in a leather arm shield. Keep a check on weld splatter clogging up the end of your welder, and only use the minimum amount of gas, it does not need to gush out. I'd recommend Argonshield light or universal over Co2 any day as it allows a better weld.
Try eventually to have a flat weld on the welded side and have the majority on the weld on the reverse side. Everyone has a preferance on how to weld, Schools will teach a weld run but often the best solution can be a succession of short burst welds almost like a plug weld that run into each other, giving a very flat weld with better control over penetration..
Good luck !

[JimY]

Re sparks down the back of the neck - I have modified my visor with a bit of thin leather (similar to the leather of the aprons) rivited to the top edge so that it hangs over the top and down the back of the head 'Laurence of Arabia' style' It has two advantages - no sparks in the hair or down the neck but better still no reflection on the inside of the lens from overhead lighting - makes it much easier to see what I am doing.

[chickenjohn]

I did think the jerry can was April 1st humour! ;);) Actually, I can't criticise anyone as, like others on here, I've welded near to a half full petrol tank- not to be reccomended, though!

The distance between torch and work piece are quite critical for getting good penetration. You want to be hearing that satisfying "frying bacon" sound when everything is just right.

[Multiphonikks]

I know john I was teasing everyone Drats to you for getting it so quickly!

Yeah - we got a bacony sound some of the time. I guess the thing is to get it all of the time!

Someone told me that the angle is about 45 degrees from the horizontal...I just need to practice!!!

I have a nice big fire extinguisher too. I did set fire once to some paint on the wing when I went beyond the bit we'd taken the metal off!



On second thoughts - isn't he bacon sound bad? I'll just want to go and eat some!

[Multiphonikks]

So andrew, are you coming over for a play? It's a nice big welder!

[bigginger]

That'd be fun - I could bring my *new* ones over to meet it I could bring my reactolite mask - have you tried one?

[Multiphonikks]

No! But it sounds like an idea!