Lowering

Post by **DFrit** » Wed Nov 20, 2002 10:13 pm

Whats the best way to lower a Morris 1000? Also, what are the recommended tyre pressures with radials on, I can only find pressures for crossplies.

Dave

Post by **blue van 727** » Wed Nov 20, 2002 10:17 pm

take the wheels off

tyre pressures will be what is best for your set up.
there has been a lot about this subject on the message board.

Post by **Willie** » Wed Nov 20, 2002 11:39 pm

The early rule of thumb used to be add 2lbs to whatever the recommended
pressure was for cross plies.
Willie

Post by **Cam** » Thu Nov 21, 2002 1:09 pm

I use about 25-26 PSI on radials (145 14").

The moggy is really easy to lower compared to a lot of other vehicles.

FRONT:

You can use the torsion bar rear adjusters (plates) to lower the car small amounts. If you want to go over about 1 1/4" then move the adjuster arm off the torsion bar and replace it one spline lower, this should give you about 1 1/4" (if memory serves) of lowering.

REAR:

You can purchase lowering blocks which fit in between the axle and the leaf springs, you will also need extra long u-bolts. I think that most minor specialists can supply these.

I think that the moggies look good if you lower the front by one spline and leave the rear standard to create a slight 'stance'. This also seems to improve the handling slightly, although if you go mad with it you can destroy the handling, so be careful!!

Cam.

Post by **downsey** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 7:48 am

On mine i used lower profile tires, lowered the vernier plate all the way down, and then lowered the torsion bars by one spline. In the back i moved the rear axle back about 5/8 of an inch and then lowered it about an inch in order for the rear wheels to fit the back fenders nicely. I had to cut the front snubbers down slightly to keep from bottoming out. Overall sits fairly good with a slight forward rake.

Post by **paulk** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 8:36 am

I think that the moggies look good if you lower the front by one spline and leave the rear standard to create a slight 'stance'.

Mine has this look due to 165 sr 14's on the back and 145 sr 14's on the front

Looks good

handles like a tug boat

But at least the fronts are nice shiny new Bridgestones

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 1:12 pm

Usually the saggy rear springs lower the car quite enough without fiddling around with lowering blocks! Don't lower the front so far that it's hitting the bump stops all the time - this will soon crack/buckle the inner wings. Same at the back - if it's sitting on/hitting the bump stops it will soon carck the chassis. You can also use 13 " wheels - or even 12s. I did once sit my Minor on 10" Mini wheels - and drove it up the road - just for a laugh. With all these smaller wheels/tyres the car looks odd with big gaps around the wheels in the arches. Looks better on 15" Minilites - but this is raising not lowering.
Downsey - how did you move the axle back ??

Post by **IslipMinor** » Fri Mar 31, 2006 10:56 pm

If you have 7-leaf rear springs, the easy way to lower the rear is to take the bottom leaf of the spring, turn it upside down and fit it on the top of the remaining 6 leaves. Did this 35 years ago on our 1958, and still working well! Obviously lowered the front through adjusting the torsion bar setting.

Very effective and zero cost.

Post by **IslipMinor** » Sat Apr 01, 2006 12:07 am

Dave,

This is the result of the previous post. The wheels are 5 1/2" x 13" and the tyres are 185/70x13. Location is a track day at Silverstone.

Richard

Post by **Judge** » Sat Apr 01, 2006 8:18 am

IslipMinor wrote:Dave,

This is the result of the previous post. The wheels are 5 1/2" x 13" and the tyres are 185/70x13. Location is a track day at Silverstone.

Richard

Very nice!

Post by **salty_monk** » Sun Apr 02, 2006 7:31 am

I use to use around 24 PSI all round. 24 - 26 should be fine.

Dan

Post by **downsey** » Tue Oct 23, 2007 11:00 pm

Usually the saggy rear springs lower the car quite enough without fiddling around with lowering blocks! Don't lower the front so far that it's hitting the bump stops all the time - this will soon crack/buckle the inner wings. Same at the back - if it's sitting on/hitting the bump stops it will soon carck the chassis. You can also use 13 " wheels - or even 12s. I did once sit my Minor on 10" Mini wheels - and drove it up the road - just for a laugh. With all these smaller wheels/tyres the car looks odd with big gaps around the wheels in the arches. Looks better on 15" Minilites - but this is raising not lowering.
Downsey - how did you move the axle back ??

Looking from the side of a stock morris, the rear wheel is obviously not centered in the fender which in my opinion is a very aesthetically weak characteristic. The axle needs to move back 5/16 of an inch to look right. I made the u-bolt mounts with the center hole offset 5/16 of an inch. The lowering block (which is required to do this) \ is also offset 5/16 of an inch as well. I have noticed no ill reprecussions from this in terms of handling and the aesthetic benefit is definetely worth it.

Post by **eastona** » Tue Oct 23, 2007 11:06 pm

I've never noticed this, but will look for it tomorrow.

I can't believe you did all that work to move the axle 5/16" backwards. You must be a real perfectionist.

Even if I do manage to spot it, it's staying as it is!!

Post by **downsey** » Tue Oct 23, 2007 11:20 pm

Well my car is a '52 with the really weak rear end. I pulled that out and put an mgb rear end because i wanted the strength, gear ratio, and most importantly the much bigger brakes. I had to remake the upper and lower u-bolt mounts as well as the axle perches, shock mounts, and emergency brake cable mounts. It involved no extra work besides a little measuring. I wouldnt have done it otherwise. Also the difference was much more noticeable on my car because i'm using very tall tires in the back and the distance is more easily noticeable. Keep in my mind that the shock also has to be offset 5/16 from its original position as well.

(

all this car talk makes me miss my car. Im in college right now and cant work on it 'til christmas)

Post by **minor_hickup** » Wed Oct 24, 2007 10:20 pm

Long time no post..

It is worth considering that lowering blocks increase the leverage the axle has over the springs thus increasing tramp. As if the moggy needed help with that.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Wed Oct 24, 2007 10:54 pm

Good point mh!

Post by **downsey** » Thu Oct 25, 2007 1:01 am

It is worth considering that lowering blocks increase the leverage the axle has over the springs thus increasing tramp. As if the moggy needed help with that.

Are you referring to the height of the lowering block? or the width? I'm assuming the height because a wider lowering block would decrease axle wrap.
Speaking of traction control, has anyone made traction bars which connect to the sping hanger? or connect to a modified spring hanger. PM me please.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Fri Oct 26, 2007 12:46 pm

Various anti-tramp bars are around - basically they attempt to stop the leaf spring winding up into an S shape. As far as I know they all run forwards - not back to the hangers which would do no good at all.

Post by **downsey** » Sat Oct 27, 2007 1:17 am

Yeah i was referring to the front spring mounting location, is it not called a spring hanger as well?

Post by **bmcecosse** » Sat Oct 27, 2007 7:44 pm

Well not really - since it doesn't 'hang' down - but see what you mean. If you make something up - check the geometry is dead right - or you could rip the floor out the car.