Ignition Suppression
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- Minor Addict
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Ignition Suppression
Greetings Comrades!
I seek your advice on the above. I've got (and prefer) copper plug leads and coil to distibutor lead with suppressor caps on the plugs. But there's always an irritating background of clicking in time with the engine. I'm thinking FM, worst for Radio 4. (No noise from the heater, wipers or pump.) Perhaps, unwisely I've got the ariel on the offside ie the side where the ignition stuff is. (Less of a temptation to passing vandals when parked.)
I'm not keen on the carbon string stuff, but am I wrong?
What do you recommend? Thanks in advance, and regards, MikeN.
I seek your advice on the above. I've got (and prefer) copper plug leads and coil to distibutor lead with suppressor caps on the plugs. But there's always an irritating background of clicking in time with the engine. I'm thinking FM, worst for Radio 4. (No noise from the heater, wipers or pump.) Perhaps, unwisely I've got the ariel on the offside ie the side where the ignition stuff is. (Less of a temptation to passing vandals when parked.)
I'm not keen on the carbon string stuff, but am I wrong?
What do you recommend? Thanks in advance, and regards, MikeN.
Morris Minor, the car of the future. One day they will all look like this!
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- Minor Fan
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- Minor Addict
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No Newage, its not the dynamo. Sorry, I should have included that in my list of eliminations. (And actually have an alternator on now.) The clicks and mush are all in time with the revs so I'm sure (so far anyway) its caused by the ignition system. Perhaps I should look more closely at the distributor.
Do other owners find copper leads with just suppressors at the plugs satisfactory? Its not used on modern production stuff, is it?
Regards, MikeN.
Do other owners find copper leads with just suppressors at the plugs satisfactory? Its not used on modern production stuff, is it?
Regards, MikeN.
Morris Minor, the car of the future. One day they will all look like this!
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I didn't find it satisfactory; no. I've got a radio with a 'built in suppression circuit' until I had that I couldn't listen to the radio at all in the car.
Pyoor Kate
The Electric Minor Project
The Current Fleet:
1969 Morris 'thou, 4 Door. 2010 Mitsubishi iMiEV. 1920s BSA Pushbike. 1930s Raleigh pushbike.
The Ex-Fleet:
1974 & 1975 Daf 44s, 1975 Enfield 8000 EV, 1989 Yugo 45, 1981 Golf Mk1, 1971 Vauxhall Viva, 1989 MZ ETZ 125, 1989 Volvo Vario 340, 1990, 1996 & 1997 MZ/Kanuni ETZ 251s
Desires:
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The Electric Minor Project
The Current Fleet:
1969 Morris 'thou, 4 Door. 2010 Mitsubishi iMiEV. 1920s BSA Pushbike. 1930s Raleigh pushbike.
The Ex-Fleet:
1974 & 1975 Daf 44s, 1975 Enfield 8000 EV, 1989 Yugo 45, 1981 Golf Mk1, 1971 Vauxhall Viva, 1989 MZ ETZ 125, 1989 Volvo Vario 340, 1990, 1996 & 1997 MZ/Kanuni ETZ 251s
Desires:
Trabant 601, Tatra T603, Series II Landy, Moskvitch-401, Vincent HRD Black Shadow, Huge garage, Job in Washington State.
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- Minor Legend
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I found that the radio reception in Phyllis was absolutely dismal until she had a fight with the garage door... She won, sporting nothing more than a snapped aerial which, when replaced with clean new connections, was much improved.
Make sure it's earthed properly under the wing - that's a prime cause for interference.
Make sure it's earthed properly under the wing - that's a prime cause for interference.
Happy Minoring!
Phyllis ~ 1962 Morris Minor 4 Door Deluxe
Black coachwork with Red Duo-Tone Upholstery
Phyllis ~ 1962 Morris Minor 4 Door Deluxe
Black coachwork with Red Duo-Tone Upholstery
It sounds like HT, possibly just one plug / lead. I had a similar problem for years until (under protest) I finally fitted a set of modern leads. Lo, there was peace and no clicking.
Most important is good earth. Try routing the aerial wire without going through the engine bay. Could be worth changing the rotar am and distributer cap. Also try removing (completely) one plug lead at a time to see if you can pin it down to one cylinder. Sometimes fitting resistor plugs (RN9Y instead of N9Y for example) helps.
Most important is good earth. Try routing the aerial wire without going through the engine bay. Could be worth changing the rotar am and distributer cap. Also try removing (completely) one plug lead at a time to see if you can pin it down to one cylinder. Sometimes fitting resistor plugs (RN9Y instead of N9Y for example) helps.
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- Minor Legend
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Hello Mike,
Showing my age but I used to install car radios in the 60's (before FM!!). Ignition noise can be a s*d to get rid of. Like you I still believe in 'real wire' plug leads. We used to use supressed plug caps and a supressor in the coil lead, not always very sucessful. Main thing is a decent aerial, well earthed, make sure the radio has a good earth and not relying on the aerial. The idea is to get lots of signal that you want into the radio. Best cure if all else failed was to fit a roof aerial, looks good and well away from the ignition circuit. Back to main thing, good aerial and earths.
Nigel
Showing my age but I used to install car radios in the 60's (before FM!!). Ignition noise can be a s*d to get rid of. Like you I still believe in 'real wire' plug leads. We used to use supressed plug caps and a supressor in the coil lead, not always very sucessful. Main thing is a decent aerial, well earthed, make sure the radio has a good earth and not relying on the aerial. The idea is to get lots of signal that you want into the radio. Best cure if all else failed was to fit a roof aerial, looks good and well away from the ignition circuit. Back to main thing, good aerial and earths.
Nigel
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Thanks for your advice folks. Will go and check the aerial first -take the point that I need to start with the best signal. Think also that it wasn't a good idea to have it on the offside. Still loath to go to carbon string leads but it may come to that.
But now its dark I'll run it and see if I've any lightning around the dizzy or out of the leads. Should have done that first. Taa again, MikeN.
But now its dark I'll run it and see if I've any lightning around the dizzy or out of the leads. Should have done that first. Taa again, MikeN.
Morris Minor, the car of the future. One day they will all look like this!
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- Minor Addict
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Nope, no thunderstorm. Mind you I've still got the low resistance coil and a 36 watt bulb in parallel so its not as dark as I'd like. Will also do a close inspection of the innards of the dizzy. Again, thanks for advice, MikeN.
Morris Minor, the car of the future. One day they will all look like this!
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- Minor Fan
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"Use a suppressor in the coil lead"- is that a condenser (sorry capacitor) in series with the coil lead I assume you mean on the earth side?
I have a similar HT noise problem, with brand new suppression leads fitted. I was about to resort to resistor plugs, but the suppressor on the coil may be a cheaper answer.
Anyone know what capacity / type suppressor is needed, or a source for ithe right item?
I have a similar HT noise problem, with brand new suppression leads fitted. I was about to resort to resistor plugs, but the suppressor on the coil may be a cheaper answer.
Anyone know what capacity / type suppressor is needed, or a source for ithe right item?
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- Minor Legend
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Just a thought....coil!
I found an old coil and tried it out on the car....no good, after a good drive I got a slight misfire when pulling away and when I pulled up it was red hot. As I was driving it was causing a buzz on the radio which like you mentioned rose with the revs. Put my newish coil on and no noise.
I found an old coil and tried it out on the car....no good, after a good drive I got a slight misfire when pulling away and when I pulled up it was red hot. As I was driving it was causing a buzz on the radio which like you mentioned rose with the revs. Put my newish coil on and no noise.