Torsion bar
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Peetee
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Torsion bar
Joe's torsion bar doesn't line up with the rear hole. I've undone the nut and given it a wallop but it doesn't budge. What have I missed?
Older and more confused than I could ever imagine possible.
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rayofleamington
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Peetee
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Side to side IIRC. Come to think of it this has probably come about as a result of me fitting new suspension bushes. Will it just be a case of pulling it free of the eyebolt and then ensuring it is located before replacing the lower suspension arm back in to the eyebolt?How doesn't it line up? Side to sidely or up and downly
Older and more confused than I could ever imagine possible.
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rayofleamington
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I'm still not 100% sure of which bit you've got that doesn't line up.
The suspension arms (front and rear) are mounted to the torsion bar via splines. The front arm needs to be pretty freely sliding on the splines in order to get proper alignment with the eyebolt bushes.
I tend to tighten up up the eyebolt pin a bit before loading the suspension to ensure it is roughly in the right place as it tends not to want to slide when it is loaded.
The rear arm itself has to slide into the correct place to pull up on the c shaped washer, although if it ha stuck in the correct place you can get away without moving it.
The suspension arms (front and rear) are mounted to the torsion bar via splines. The front arm needs to be pretty freely sliding on the splines in order to get proper alignment with the eyebolt bushes.
I tend to tighten up up the eyebolt pin a bit before loading the suspension to ensure it is roughly in the right place as it tends not to want to slide when it is loaded.
The rear arm itself has to slide into the correct place to pull up on the c shaped washer, although if it ha stuck in the correct place you can get away without moving it.
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rayofleamington
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Ah ok - That's a bit of a pain! - Did you get it sorted?it's the rear of the torsion bar. The sholdered washers were'nt sitting in the hole in the crossmember.
If not,
You need to release the load off the spring (by splitting down the front suspension). Then you will be able to realign the rear arm / torsion bar with the hole in the crossmember.
Bear in mind that the misalignment can make artound 1" difference to the front suspension height on that side (if it is sitting on the thread not the shouldered washer).
Stripping down the front suspension gives ideal opportuniity to get the torsion bar off and make sure the suspension arms slide on the splines. (on Monty this involved a lot of plus gas over a few days and a sledge hammer)
If you are making adjustments to the suspension arms (e.g. relocating the shouldered washer, replacing bushes etc..) one good way to get the suspension height as it was is to measure the gap between the trunnion pin and the mating hole in the end of the front suspension arm. (best to lift the front suspension arm with your fingers to remove any slack and make the measurement more repeatable).
This distance will determine the suspension pre-load and therefore determine the suspension height when assembled. Adjustment is via the multiplle holes in the plate at the rear arm, or for bigger adjustment you can slide off the rear arm and move it around on the splines.
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