Difftastic?

Post by **Willie** » Mon Feb 13, 2006 8:18 am

Good result but I will be surprised if the pinion oil seal doesn't start leaking
now, but at least it is an easy job.

Post by **Stig** » Mon Feb 13, 2006 8:52 am

Good result but I will be surprised if the pinion oil seal doesn't start leaking
now, but at least it is an easy job.

I was amazed to get away with just tightening the thing up, though there was a bit of oil between the two flanges. Thought I'd have to put the old diff back in once I saw how much slack there was. I wasn't inclined to spend much time on it yesterday as I was lying in a puddle.

Post by **rayofleamington** » Mon Feb 13, 2006 10:10 am

Stig28,
Well done for spotting the problem - it's amazing what kind of secondary problems cann occur after having a u/j failure!

Post by **Kevin** » Mon Feb 13, 2006 2:16 pm

would you not be able to fit the 3.7 diff from Wolsley 1500 or Riley 1.5.

Sorry to nit pick but the 3.7 was only fitted to the Riley the Wolsley had the 3.9, as Matt says the Midget one from a 1275cc not 1500cc is easier to get but good uns seem to make £100 ish.

Post by **ianselva** » Mon Feb 13, 2006 4:23 pm

But bearing in mind how old any of these cars are you need to check the diff itself ( Either etched on the crown wheel or stamped on the diff casing) in each case whether its a Riley or Wolsely as it may well have had its diff changed over the years.

Post by **Matt** » Mon Feb 13, 2006 7:15 pm

The diffs from 1275 and all 1500's (except the last 2/3) years were 3.9s. The last few years had 3.7s they are all interchangable. Ie. you can fit the diffs from 1500 midgets to the minor.

Post by **chrisd87** » Wed Feb 15, 2006 8:46 pm

Just came across a 3.71 on ebay if anyone's interested:

Here

Post by **Multiphonikks** » Thu Feb 16, 2006 6:50 pm

So Chris... did Sarah pass the MOT???

Post by **chrisd87** » Thu Feb 16, 2006 8:01 pm

Well, err, only after rather a lot of work. It needed 2 new tyres, a brake overhaul and replacement of the o/s rear spring hanger and chassis rail. It had gone totally rusty and had already been plated over 3 times, so it had to be totally cut out and replaced. Not cheap to say the least, but they did a good job. She's back in service now though

and although the engine is knackered she's still going fine.

Before:
<img src="http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/ ... C00396.jpg" width='320' height='240'>

After:
<img src="http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/ ... C00440.jpg" width='320' height='240'>

Post by **aupickup** » Thu Feb 16, 2006 8:12 pm

well done another years motoring.

just have to say my van passed first time no work needed 2nd year running as well

Post by **Cam** » Thu Feb 16, 2006 8:14 pm

Well done to the both of you!

Keeping the Minors on the road where they belong.

Post by **aupickup** » Thu Feb 16, 2006 9:45 pm

hello cam
got the breathing sorted on the 1275 all as you suggested and works a treat,
i am going to fit an old stock rubber rear sump seal, you know the half moon shaped one.
my question is this, do i need to put any instant gasket goo on the rubber.
also they are different lengths, one is longer than the other, do you know which one is which

Post by **Cam** » Fri Feb 17, 2006 12:49 am

Glad you got the breathing sorted.

I don't think you NEED the Hylomar gasket compound but I use it just in case. Also, it's just luck of the draw that the two pieces of rubber are different lengths. Mine were the same. They have to be trimmed a bit anyway so they just stick proud of the half-moon shape in the sump so that they compress when being done up but they don't stick out too much to prevent the sump going fully up. I think they recommend that the stick up a few mm (maybe 5?) proud of the sump.

Post by **KirstMin** » Fri Feb 17, 2006 9:42 am

Cam wrote:I don't think you NEED the Hylomar gasket compound but I use it just in case. Also, it's just luck of the draw that the two pieces of rubber are different lengths. Mine were the same. They have to be trimmed a bit anyway so they just stick proud of the half-moon shape in the sump so that they compress when being done up but they don't stick out too much to prevent the sump going fully up. I think they recommend that the stick up a few mm (maybe 5?) proud of the sump.

I followed cams advise for this and it works a treat using a bit of hylomer blue. Not had one drop of oil leak in 3 months so far. Mine were the same length and didn't need trimming by the way.