sid
Oil pressure gauge connection
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sidsmith
- Minor Fan
- Posts: 153
- Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2005 11:33 am
- Location: South Birmingham
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Oil pressure gauge connection
sid
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Shawn
- Minor Fan
- Posts: 162
- Joined: Fri Apr 08, 2005 5:00 am
- Location: Brisbane, Australia
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Fit a "T" piece in place of the oil pressure sender unit, then fit the copper pipe and the sender unit to the "T"

This can be a lot more difficult than it sounds. On an A series the distributor and oil filter pipe will be in the way. The angle of the "T" can be critical to get a good seal, and the obstructions can limit the available angles.
If I was doing this again, I think I'd take the distributor out to do it.

This can be a lot more difficult than it sounds. On an A series the distributor and oil filter pipe will be in the way. The angle of the "T" can be critical to get a good seal, and the obstructions can limit the available angles.
If I was doing this again, I think I'd take the distributor out to do it.
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Willie
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 3204
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- Location: S E London
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gauge
If your copper pipe is long enough you should form a coil (wrap around a
pipe) between the engine and the bulkhead to allow for the movement of
the engine which would,in time, cause the pipe to fracture OR cut the pipe
and fit a length of suitable flexible pipe between the ends. Out of interest
what is the green oil pressure switch on the dashboard? Do you mean the
warning light? (yes you do, I have just seen your post under 'electrical').
pipe) between the engine and the bulkhead to allow for the movement of
the engine which would,in time, cause the pipe to fracture OR cut the pipe
and fit a length of suitable flexible pipe between the ends. Out of interest
what is the green oil pressure switch on the dashboard? Do you mean the
warning light? (yes you do, I have just seen your post under 'electrical').
Willie
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Pyoor_Kate
- Minor Addict
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- Joined: Fri May 28, 2004 10:22 pm
- Location: Washington State, US.
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Err, actually, I had problems fitting a t-piece with my standard dizzy too - fortunately by a process of carefully adjusting it's position it was possible, but it was difficult to get in there, very tight, and had to be positioned carefully to allow the oil-pressure switch to fit...
...mind, it's worse on the ital engine where I've had to bend the connector on the oil pressure switch just to make it fit.
...mind, it's worse on the ital engine where I've had to bend the connector on the oil pressure switch just to make it fit.
Pyoor Kate
The Electric Minor Project
The Current Fleet:
1969 Morris 'thou, 4 Door. 2010 Mitsubishi iMiEV. 1920s BSA Pushbike. 1930s Raleigh pushbike.
The Ex-Fleet:
1974 & 1975 Daf 44s, 1975 Enfield 8000 EV, 1989 Yugo 45, 1981 Golf Mk1, 1971 Vauxhall Viva, 1989 MZ ETZ 125, 1989 Volvo Vario 340, 1990, 1996 & 1997 MZ/Kanuni ETZ 251s
Desires:
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The Electric Minor Project
The Current Fleet:
1969 Morris 'thou, 4 Door. 2010 Mitsubishi iMiEV. 1920s BSA Pushbike. 1930s Raleigh pushbike.
The Ex-Fleet:
1974 & 1975 Daf 44s, 1975 Enfield 8000 EV, 1989 Yugo 45, 1981 Golf Mk1, 1971 Vauxhall Viva, 1989 MZ ETZ 125, 1989 Volvo Vario 340, 1990, 1996 & 1997 MZ/Kanuni ETZ 251s
Desires:
Trabant 601, Tatra T603, Series II Landy, Moskvitch-401, Vincent HRD Black Shadow, Huge garage, Job in Washington State.
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Shawn
- Minor Fan
- Posts: 162
- Joined: Fri Apr 08, 2005 5:00 am
- Location: Brisbane, Australia
- MMOC Member: No
That's right -it's a modified Hitachi breakerless unit. I fitted it yesterday. I had the standard dizzy in prior to that and it's clearance is even worse.bmcecosse wrote:Shawn - your dizzy is not at all a standard one for a Minor engine ! And it's in at the wrong angle which is why you had problems fitting the T piece.
I need to sort the timing and stuff today, I might turn it so the vacume advance is a further 90 degrees clockwise and swap the leads around. But so far it idles beautifully.
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