Sill and Cross Member repair

Discuss Bodywork problems here.
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Lux_Moggy
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Post by Lux_Moggy »

Hi,
Ray what roller do you use. And good luck in the rally, one year I think I would would like to do it, wife and job allowing. ;-)
Iain
rayofleamington
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Post by rayofleamington »

I've got a Grumpy's roller - Grumpys recently stopped trading but I got mine second hand anyway, but didn't save much on the price of a new one. It takes 3.5 people to roll the car complete, or 2.5 people to do it with engine + box removed. (the extra bit of person is required at the start of lifting and at the end to put the stays in place)
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246gts
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Post by 246gts »

there is a roller on eBay at the moment Item 8018246437
Dave
SR
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Post by SR »

http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?folder_id=1070767
Chris Morley
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Post by Chris Morley »

Went for £215.01! :o :-?
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Packedup
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Post by Packedup »

SR wrote:if replacing the whole sill, i would strongly recommend not cutting the inner sill right out, its really thick metal anyway and the top half dosent normally rust,i did cut the whole thing out on one side but had problems , it didnnt go back spot on, myself i would go the way of the "lindsay porter" book and weld in a plate of thicker metal, the bit that came attached to the floor panel was flimsy so i cut it off, like so, its your choice mate, just my experiances,steve
I've only got really up close with the pickup, but aren't you missing the seatbelt anchorage on that inner sill? :-?
SR
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Post by SR »

weld a seatbelt bolt / nut in
http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?folder_id=1070767
Lux_Moggy
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Post by Lux_Moggy »

Hello,
Wife won't let me buy the roller. I have to get the car back on the road as cheaply as possible. Appart from the cross member. Is it possible to do all of the other panels with the car as high as possible on alex stands. The inner wing and hinge panel, can be done with the car upright?
Thanks
Iain
Lux_Moggy
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Post by Lux_Moggy »

Hello Steve,
How easy/cheap was it to make your roller? May be I can get that past my wife.
Thanks
Iain
SR
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Post by SR »

ello iain, took about 7 hhours, but that was design and build, reckon the next time to do it in 4 hours ,just lucky it worked, i can send u a diagram if u PM your address my friend, i dont think it could work any better on a stripped shell,took 3 men 10 -15 seconds to flip over easily, pure luck i formed the right radius, steve
http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?folder_id=1070767
chickenjohn
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Post by chickenjohn »

Lux_Moggy wrote:Hello,
Wife won't let me buy the roller. I have to get the car back on the road as cheaply as possible. Appart from the cross member. Is it possible to do all of the other panels with the car as high as possible on alex stands. The inner wing and hinge panel, can be done with the car upright?
Thanks
Iain
Yes, its possible to do sill replacements and floor edge repairs lying underneath the car. I did that on the Traveller as I had no room to roll the car on its side.

As you say jack the car as high as possible and if you can work with just your head (protected by welding helmet and baseball cap) and arms /shoulders underneath the car.

It is more uncomfortable and you do get some small burns from welding sparks, but it is certainly possible.
Cheers John - all comments IMHO
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Lux_Moggy
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Post by Lux_Moggy »

Hello,
Do you think that it is better to replace just the front half of the outer sill or is it better to do the whole lot.

Should I wait until I have the panels (3 weeks) and the welding stuff to start removing the outer sill?

Regards,

Iain
Cam
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Post by Cam »

Lux_Moggy wrote:Hello,
Do you think that it is better to replace just the front half of the outer sill or is it better to do the whole lot.
Just replace what is rotten. Doing half the sill is perfectly fine if the other half is OK.
Should I wait until I have the panels (3 weeks) and the welding stuff to start removing the outer sill?
If you know what you are getting then you can remove the lot but if you are not sure exactly then if you wait, you can make sure you don't remove too much and are left with gaps or tricky situations. Of course you should cut ALL the rust out back to good steel, but don't remove TOO much steel! :wink:
Lux_Moggy
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Post by Lux_Moggy »

Hello,
What should I look for in a Welder A friend and myself are going to buy one between us.

I will wait until I have the panels before I cut anything so I can be sure. I probably will by a small drill that has a wire brush and cutting disk attachments. Anything I should watch for?

Thanks
Iain
bigginger
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Post by bigginger »

I'd buy an angle grinder, if I were you. You can get cutting and grinding discs and wire brushes for them, and it'll be much easier to use than a drill.
Can't drill holes with them though!
Last edited by bigginger on Fri Dec 09, 2005 9:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
paulk
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Post by paulk »

I'm with the Big G on that one.

A grinder will be of more use and, if like the Uk, Cheaper than a drill too.

You can get some really thin cutting discs (1mm) but to be honest I just butcher my way through with a 3mm disc.

A 115mm angle grinder seems to be about the best size for most things, while not eating disc quite as fast as a 100mm unit.

If you get a wire brush just be careful that you don't wear away what you are trying to clean.
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bigginger
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Post by bigginger »

...and wear gloves and goggles when you're using it - wire strands can come out and lodge in your skin/eyes :D
Cam
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Post by Cam »

Lux_Moggy wrote:Hello,
What should I look for in a Welder A friend and myself are going to buy one between us.

I will wait until I have the panels before I cut anything so I can be sure. I probably will by a small drill that has a wire brush and cutting disk attachments. Anything I should watch for?

Thanks
Iain
Machine mart is pretty good for welders/grinders and safety equipment.

Ths welder is one which I use (and so do a lot us on here):
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=010114060

Image

The angle grinders are essential when doing car body work and you can't really do without one.

I have used loads of different types over the years but I have found this one to be pretty good:

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=060512125

Image

It's not a 'quality' item as it's only £15 BUT the main advantage is that it's lightweight. REALLY useful when working upside down on cars. The bearings go after a while but it's really light to use. I have another high quality one with overload protection and all the features you could want but it's just too heavy and bulky for under car use really. Plus if you really grind hard then the overload protection cuts in and it stops! REALLY annoying, so it's just used for sanding now. :(

Oh and definately get a full face mask if you are grinding and especially when using a wire brush attachment or you'll end up looking like this:

Image

I kid you not! :lol:

I use one of these:

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=040433610

Image
Lux_Moggy
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Post by Lux_Moggy »

Hello,
Thanks for the advice.

What wheels did you use to make the roller?

Where should I jack-up the car to weld in the outer sill? If I start on the car before I do anything with the roller.

Thanks
Iain
Cam
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Post by Cam »

Jack up and then place axle stands under the car:

Rear axle (close as you can to the wheel)

Front chassis leg (nearish to where the bottom suspension leg joins it)
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