Chassis Holes

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jonali
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Chassis Holes

Post by jonali »

I am working on an austin badged 1/4 ton pickup. Have stripped down the back end and found a few holes in the top of the chassis member they are no bigger than credit card sized when cut back to solid. So shall I just drop and peice of plate in the hole and weld it up? or do i need to start to replace sections :)
aupickup
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Post by aupickup »

just so long as you cut back to sound metal, should be ok
jonali
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Post by jonali »

Thanks :D The back section is full of grease(grease nipple at back) but past the arch in the chassis there is no grease is this as it should be?
J
bigginger
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Post by bigginger »

Nope! Sounds like somebody's been doing a spot of improvised rust proofing to me.
jonali
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Post by jonali »

How bizarre. There is a grease nipple in the the end of of each chassis section. my best guess was that they were to grease to bolt that hold the springs but that didn't make much sense either. J
rayofleamington
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Post by rayofleamington »

my best guess was that they were to grease to bolt that hold the springs but that didn't make much sense either
The rear spring mounting is a tube, so wouldn't get any of that grease anyway - very odd!
The top of the chassis is just plate, but remember that without it the rest of the chassis section is as soft as butter (without the plate to box it in, it'll just bend! - I've seen it happen...)
It should be easy to repair but it needs to be a very good repair.
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.

Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block :(
jonali
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Post by jonali »

It should be easy to repair but it needs to be a very good repair.

I had intended to cut small peices to fit and weld in flush to chassis is this the best or should I over patch? Chassis spotwelds seem solid enough but would it be worth mig welding the seams at intervals?
All advice greatfully received. (unless about the poor spelling) :wink:
wibble_puppy
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Post by wibble_puppy »

bigginger wrote:Nope! Sounds like somebody's been doing a spot of improvised rust proofing to me.
which bit of that is wrong dude? the bit that's packed with grease or the bit that's empty? My local "specialist" recommends packing the chassis of an LCV with cavity wax Image

juliet

PS don't worry one bit about your spelling jonali; as long as peeps can understand wot ye'r on about ye'll be fine :D

jonali
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Post by jonali »

My local "specialist" recommends packing the chassis of an LCV with cavity wax
I like it! makes sense in a way. (shoulda bought a bus pass) :roll:
bigginger
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Post by bigginger »

wibble_puppy wrote: which bit of that is wrong dude? the bit that's packed with grease or the bit that's empty? My local "specialist" recommends packing the chassis of an LCV with cavity wax
??????? Who's saying any of it's "wrong"? I'm just saying a) that it's not original and b) that it's probably there for rust proofing and that I've not heard of using grease for that before!
rayofleamington
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Post by rayofleamington »

that it's probably there for rust proofing and that I've not heard of using grease for that before!
It may have been intended to be 'thick oil' or even engine oil, but when people see a grease nipple they tend to put grease in it. If it was meant to be used for oil, then it is a bit more logical but there should have been a few more nipples to get it evenly distributed.
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.

Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block :(
wibble_puppy
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Post by wibble_puppy »

bigginger wrote:
wibble_puppy wrote: which bit of that is wrong dude? the bit that's packed with grease or the bit that's empty? My local "specialist" recommends packing the chassis of an LCV with cavity wax
??????? Who's saying any of it's "wrong"? I'm just saying a) that it's not original and b) that it's probably there for rust proofing and that I've not heard of using grease for that before!
arrrr..... 'twas that jonali said
is this as it should be?
and you replied
Nope!
which i took to mean that it was "wrong" in some way - wanted to check out which bit was wrong so that i could avoid a mistake :)

bigginger
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Post by bigginger »

Ahem - 'Nope', it's NOT 'as it should be'! :D Nowt 'wrong' with it being like that now though.
wibble_puppy
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Post by wibble_puppy »

ah, ok! thanks for explaining.

so it's not original, but is a good idea nonetheless?

cheers andrew :D

bigginger
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Post by bigginger »

I'm not sure I'd go for the grease option, but Cavity wax or 'thick oil' certainly are.
Last edited by bigginger on Sun Oct 30, 2005 1:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
jonali
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Post by jonali »

Thanks to all for the clarification on that one :-?
Have had to scrape out the wax/grease in order to weld. Can cavity wax still be acquired.

J
bigginger
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Post by bigginger »

I'm assuming by cavity wax Juliet's adviser is talking about Waxoyl, which is available everywhere, or Dinitrol which is nearly as easy to get.
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