overheating problem
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overheating problem
hi all
i wonder if any one can help me on this one.
my 1098 engine is overheating and losing a bit of water.
this has happened over the past 2 weeks.
i replaced the bypass hose and bottom hose, i have checked the thermostat and it opens and closes.
there is no lack of power or undo noises.
when i take the rad cap off, on my othere engines i can see the flow of water, i fitted a water [pump about about 15 months ago, could this still be the problem.#
i wonder if any one can help me on this one.
my 1098 engine is overheating and losing a bit of water.
this has happened over the past 2 weeks.
i replaced the bypass hose and bottom hose, i have checked the thermostat and it opens and closes.
there is no lack of power or undo noises.
when i take the rad cap off, on my othere engines i can see the flow of water, i fitted a water [pump about about 15 months ago, could this still be the problem.#
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Cam
- Moderator

- Posts: 5109
- Joined: Mon May 20, 2002 1:00 am
- Location: Stoke-on-Trent, Staffordshire, UK
- MMOC Member: Yes
The radiator is easy. Just disconnect the top and bottom hoses and put a hosepipe in whichever end and seal it with your hand then watch the other end until it runs clear. Then swap ends.
The engine works best if you remove the thermostat and put the hosepipe in the top of the thermostat housing and watch the bottom radiator hose for the clean running water. Then swap over. Put the hosepipe in the bottom radiator hose and watch the water coming out of the thermostat housing.
For the heater matrix, disconnect the two rubber pipes going to the engine (heater tap and copper pipe next to spark plugs) put the hose up one and watch the other. Then swap over when it runs clear.
You might find that the heater matrix cleans itself when you flush the engine, but do it separately to make sure.
The engine works best if you remove the thermostat and put the hosepipe in the top of the thermostat housing and watch the bottom radiator hose for the clean running water. Then swap over. Put the hosepipe in the bottom radiator hose and watch the water coming out of the thermostat housing.
For the heater matrix, disconnect the two rubber pipes going to the engine (heater tap and copper pipe next to spark plugs) put the hose up one and watch the other. Then swap over when it runs clear.
You might find that the heater matrix cleans itself when you flush the engine, but do it separately to make sure.
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paulg
- Minor Friendly
- Posts: 47
- Joined: Mon Feb 17, 2003 12:46 pm
- Location: Hampshire
- MMOC Member: No
If the above doesn't work (it probably will) it is worth checking the external condition of the radiator.
I had a similar problem - did all the usual things as above but they made no difference. The solution was to replace the radiator! The little feathery bits of metal that diffuse the heat had mostly fallen off and I didn't realise just how important they are. The radiator couldn't cool the water enough.
I had a similar problem - did all the usual things as above but they made no difference. The solution was to replace the radiator! The little feathery bits of metal that diffuse the heat had mostly fallen off and I didn't realise just how important they are. The radiator couldn't cool the water enough.
hi
tried all the above.
no blockages, so that was ok, checked radiator although it was a new one fitted last year.
ok so took it for a spin today and still overheats.
could it be the thermostat not working properly.
what one do you guys use, i have a 1969 1098 .
thanks
tried all the above.
no blockages, so that was ok, checked radiator although it was a new one fitted last year.
ok so took it for a spin today and still overheats.
could it be the thermostat not working properly.
what one do you guys use, i have a 1969 1098 .
thanks
[img]http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/3212102/1086722735259_small_8cwt.JPG[/img]
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Shmickle
- Minor Friendly
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Thu Jul 18, 2002 7:00 pm
- Location: Cornwall
- MMOC Member: No
I feel all big and clever!! I've never posted 'help' before. I don't know what a Morris Minor engine looks like, but..... When our old BMW 3-series engine was overheating it was the thermostat that had jammed, either open or closed, I dunno which would make it overheat?? What you can do to test if it of the same type as ours was is to put it in boiling water, and see if it opens. I seem to remember you can live without the thermostat in the summer, but not the winter. I dunno, try taking the thermostat out and taking it for a spin, see if it still over-heats!!
- James xx 'much love'
Please tell me what you think of this post, tell me everyone if it makes any sense!
- James xx 'much love'
Please tell me what you think of this post, tell me everyone if it makes any sense!
well it is like the cooling system has a given capacity of coolant (say 8 litres) to circulate around the engine- driven by the water pump, through the thermostat, the radiator and hoses.
If the thermostat stays closed the flow is effectively stopped (the flow is blocked off by the shut thermostat). This is a reason for having a thermostat, so that there is quite a quick warm up time when the engine is started (the engine generates heat by it running, but if it cannot flow and circulate the coolant around it rapidly heats up). A thermostat that is working correctly will open at a given (normal working) temperature (say 82C) and allow the flow to complete the circuit of the engine AND cooling system (radiator, etc). This means that the coolant will be heated by the engine (as a means to transfer heat away from the engine to stop it overheating) and flow through the radiator where the heat is disipated through the cooling fins to the atmosphere. The somewhat cooled coolant continues its cycle again through the engine, etc, etc. So the thermostat kind of acts as a regulator to flow of the cooling system at different temperatures.
Is that any clearer? (don't worry if it is difficult to follow- explaining things has never been my strong point!)
If the thermostat stays closed the flow is effectively stopped (the flow is blocked off by the shut thermostat). This is a reason for having a thermostat, so that there is quite a quick warm up time when the engine is started (the engine generates heat by it running, but if it cannot flow and circulate the coolant around it rapidly heats up). A thermostat that is working correctly will open at a given (normal working) temperature (say 82C) and allow the flow to complete the circuit of the engine AND cooling system (radiator, etc). This means that the coolant will be heated by the engine (as a means to transfer heat away from the engine to stop it overheating) and flow through the radiator where the heat is disipated through the cooling fins to the atmosphere. The somewhat cooled coolant continues its cycle again through the engine, etc, etc. So the thermostat kind of acts as a regulator to flow of the cooling system at different temperatures.
Is that any clearer? (don't worry if it is difficult to follow- explaining things has never been my strong point!)
Dennis,
I've just fitted a new water pump and found it leaked between the block and the flange.
The blind hole in the pump body was not deep enough for the locating pin, leaving a 2mm gap for the gasket/sealant to fill - or not.
This only appeared as a slow drip on standing/idling, probably more when being driven.
Regards,
Colin
I've just fitted a new water pump and found it leaked between the block and the flange.
The blind hole in the pump body was not deep enough for the locating pin, leaving a 2mm gap for the gasket/sealant to fill - or not.
This only appeared as a slow drip on standing/idling, probably more when being driven.
Regards,
Colin
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