painting fuel tank
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- Minor Legend
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painting fuel tank
hi all,
my fuel tank is all scabby and peeling. While I'm at this restoration I want to rub it down and repaint it. Anyone got any advice on what to paint it with? It isn't going to be body colour.
Also I've read that one should steam clean the inside of the tank, or at least swill it out with hot water, before reinstalling it. Obviously you then have to dry it thoroughly. Is that right? Anyone got any tips for drying it out?
Cheers,
juliet
my fuel tank is all scabby and peeling. While I'm at this restoration I want to rub it down and repaint it. Anyone got any advice on what to paint it with? It isn't going to be body colour.
Also I've read that one should steam clean the inside of the tank, or at least swill it out with hot water, before reinstalling it. Obviously you then have to dry it thoroughly. Is that right? Anyone got any tips for drying it out?
Cheers,
juliet
Rub it down and prime (I use red oxide) then paint with chassis black/ paint. The underside is exposed to the road (as far as I can tell from project pickup) so you want it to be well protected against chipping and general exposure. I get my chassis paint from Brown Brothers (branded Bodyline), about 30 quid a gallon, and use it for all non-cosmetic areas 
As for cleaning the tank out, I'd probably use old petrol, diesel (red's handy if you have to buy some, due to the far lower rate of duty. Means finding a supplier though), parafin, whatever. Plenty of swilling around, rinsing out, then repeat, etc. Not convinced about using water, it won't mix with any remnants of fuel, and seems a bit pointless for any reasons other than it's very cheap. I've heard about stuff you can put in to paint/ seal the inside of the tank, doing a google groups search might point you in the right direction
When the tank goes back on make sure you put a filter in the fuel line somewhere, as there's bound to be some bits of rust you haven't cleaned out.

As for cleaning the tank out, I'd probably use old petrol, diesel (red's handy if you have to buy some, due to the far lower rate of duty. Means finding a supplier though), parafin, whatever. Plenty of swilling around, rinsing out, then repeat, etc. Not convinced about using water, it won't mix with any remnants of fuel, and seems a bit pointless for any reasons other than it's very cheap. I've heard about stuff you can put in to paint/ seal the inside of the tank, doing a google groups search might point you in the right direction

When the tank goes back on make sure you put a filter in the fuel line somewhere, as there's bound to be some bits of rust you haven't cleaned out.
Ah, right. Didn't know there was one, and I've never bothered about painting the inside anyway - Never have enough in there for a decent amount of water to build up at the bottomCam wrote:Careful with that as it bungs up the little plastic filter on the end of the pickup pipe inside the tank.Packedup wrote:I've heard about stuff you can put in to paint/ seal the inside of the tank,

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tank
I cleaned my tank reasonably thoroughly and then painted with
smooth Hammerite because it is formulated to go on to bare metal
and kill rust. I then brushed Waxoyl all over the tank, drove it around
for a couple of months and then re Waxoyled it. The end result is
a lovely waxy, gungy tank which is totally rust free after eleven years!
smooth Hammerite because it is formulated to go on to bare metal
and kill rust. I then brushed Waxoyl all over the tank, drove it around
for a couple of months and then re Waxoyled it. The end result is
a lovely waxy, gungy tank which is totally rust free after eleven years!
Last edited by Willie on Tue Sep 20, 2005 9:33 am, edited 1 time in total.
Willie
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Without wishing to start another drawn out debate ;), I don't rate Hammerite for any part of a vehicle exposed to flying debris and/ or flexing. You'll get away with it thanks to the Waxoil, but when Hammerite is so pricey, and nice, shiny, flexable chassis paint (formulated for chassis of all things
) is cheaper, there's no contest in my opinion.
Hammerite does give a nice finish and has its place, I just can't agree that that place is anywhere near the underside of a car!

Hammerite does give a nice finish and has its place, I just can't agree that that place is anywhere near the underside of a car!
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Put a couple of handfuls of coarse gravel in the fuel tank, give it a shake for a few minutes & this will loosen off any rust flakes that might be inside.
Scott
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[url=http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/9625/19705bp.jpg]1970 1000[/url]
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That's a good idea!Scott wrote:Put a couple of handfuls of coarse gravel in the fuel tank, give it a shake for a few minutes & this will loosen off any rust flakes that might be inside.

I seem to remember reading about using wash powder, water and a 12v supply to remove rust from stuff (some sort of electro chemical reaction, not sure if it actually works), wonder if the principle could be used to get the last of it gone after your gravel idea...
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- cool: had thought of doing that but wasn't sure if it would be a good idea in case i damaged it - i assume you have tried it and it works though, so will do - cheers!Scott wrote:Put a couple of handfuls of coarse gravel in the fuel tank, give it a shake for a few minutes & this will loosen off any rust flakes that might be inside.

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If a lot of rust flakes come out after cleaning & you're worried about the amount of metal left holding the tank together, put a litre or two of diesel fuel in the tank.
Diesel will leak through anything. If you leave the tank overnight & nothing has leaked out, then the tank should be OK.
"Packedup" mentioned the sealant for fuel tanks.
When I made the long range tank for my Van, I used the POR tank sealant just to ensure my welds would be leak proof & to give the bare metal inside the tank a coating.
All the instructions were followed to the letter. After a couple of years the coating started to flake/peel off & blocked the fuel pick up (no filter fitted on the pick up)
.
After my experience, I would not recommend this process
.
Diesel will leak through anything. If you leave the tank overnight & nothing has leaked out, then the tank should be OK.
"Packedup" mentioned the sealant for fuel tanks.
When I made the long range tank for my Van, I used the POR tank sealant just to ensure my welds would be leak proof & to give the bare metal inside the tank a coating.
All the instructions were followed to the letter. After a couple of years the coating started to flake/peel off & blocked the fuel pick up (no filter fitted on the pick up)



After my experience, I would not recommend this process

Scott
[url=http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/523/bo16vy.jpg]1948 Series MM[/url]
[url=http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/2484/dcp001046qp.jpg]1962 1000[/url]
[url=http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/9625/19705bp.jpg]1970 1000[/url]
[url=http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/7259/nullabor25ns.jpg]1959 Van[/url]
[url=http://www.morrisdownunder.com/forum/index.php]Aussie Forum[/url]
[url=http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/523/bo16vy.jpg]1948 Series MM[/url]
[url=http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/2484/dcp001046qp.jpg]1962 1000[/url]
[url=http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/9625/19705bp.jpg]1970 1000[/url]
[url=http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/7259/nullabor25ns.jpg]1959 Van[/url]
[url=http://www.morrisdownunder.com/forum/index.php]Aussie Forum[/url]
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I've got another concern on this topic: Heat reflection
We aren't offered Gasoline...we are sold Motor Fuel. The difference being additives. Ethanol is usually added under the guise of reducing emissions. It's really a subsidy boondoggle but that's another topic. As a result, I experience vapor lock at the drop of a hat.
I'll be replacing the correct front mount fuel pump with a rear mount pusher pump as that reduces the problem. <I'm leaving the lucas pump in place on the bulkhead and running the plumbing so it appears as though the correct system is in place> I'm also insulating the lines to reduce heat pickup from the road surface.
This thread has made me wonder about reducing the temperature of the fuel in the tank by using a different coating.
Hmmm...
Peter
We aren't offered Gasoline...we are sold Motor Fuel. The difference being additives. Ethanol is usually added under the guise of reducing emissions. It's really a subsidy boondoggle but that's another topic. As a result, I experience vapor lock at the drop of a hat.
I'll be replacing the correct front mount fuel pump with a rear mount pusher pump as that reduces the problem. <I'm leaving the lucas pump in place on the bulkhead and running the plumbing so it appears as though the correct system is in place> I'm also insulating the lines to reduce heat pickup from the road surface.
This thread has made me wonder about reducing the temperature of the fuel in the tank by using a different coating.
Hmmm...
Peter
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I asked Harry at ESM about the cleaning issue when I picked up my tank a couple of days ago.
He advises using nuts and bolts instead of gravel to swill it out with - that way you can use a counted number of items, and count them again when finished to make sure they have all come out!
As far as the outside goes, he would advise:
1. Rub down (getting rid of any rust with a wire brush)
2. Coat it with Curust or similar, rather than red oxide
3. Undercoat it
4. Paint it with chassis paint
5. If you like you can then paint it with Waxoyl or similar.
There you go - from the horse's mouth
juliet
He advises using nuts and bolts instead of gravel to swill it out with - that way you can use a counted number of items, and count them again when finished to make sure they have all come out!

As far as the outside goes, he would advise:
1. Rub down (getting rid of any rust with a wire brush)
2. Coat it with Curust or similar, rather than red oxide
3. Undercoat it
4. Paint it with chassis paint
5. If you like you can then paint it with Waxoyl or similar.
There you go - from the horse's mouth

juliet

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