engine

[moggyminor16]

hi all
right please can some one help i need some bits but i need somwer cheap
i need piston rings crankshat bearnings(will the conrods need new ones as well)
i have looked in the mag but it says look on the web site but i carnt find the spares bit also i dont know the real name for it all
so if some one out there can help with the names and how to get on the spares bitplease tell me

[Packedup]

Sounds like you need main bearings and big end bearings. And yes, it's false economy not to do both at the same time.

http://shop.morrisminorspares.co.uk/pro ... 518c7dd418

http://shop.morrisminorspares.co.uk/pro ... 518c7dd418

http://shop.morrisminorspares.co.uk/pro ... 518c7dd418

Wish I'd seen those prices when trying to do the pickup - Locally the best price was 30 quid for big ends! Due to budget we just got a set of those, and re-used the slightly worn mains

[moggyminor16]

thanks mate but is there meany diffrent ring set ie + and - what do i do

[bmcecosse]

Unless the crank is absolutely un-worn, it is a waste of money to fit new bearing shells. Note the shells also come in 'undersize' steps (actually the shells are oversize - it's the crank that's undersize ) and so you need to check what comes out - and double check with a micrometer on the crank journals. Same for the bores - if they are worn and/or the pistons are worn in the ring grooves then again it's a waste of time/money to fit new rings - it needs re-boring and new oversize pistons. You would also be mad not to fit a new oil pump and a new timing chain at the same time. Crank regrind + bearings =~ £100, and rebore with pistons and rings = ~ £100 depending where you source the pistons. Oil pump ~ £20, timing chain ~ £5 and gaskets also ~ £10. Maybe better and cheaper to source a known good condition engine instead !!

[moggyminor16]

well thats true
all that is wrong with the engine is useing a lot of fuel burning oil and chain rattle
i have a brand new chain already so its the rings that are the problem its had new valve stem rubbers ,
i use semy sinfetic oil top of the range which is hard to get and not meany places do it but if some one out there has a good engine in good condition i will get 25 ltrs of this oil for them as a swop

[Packedup]

If you're simply replacing worn items, and not having a rebore, regrind, etc, then you need the standard size, which is called just that, not plus or minus

I agree to an extent with what bmcecosse says, and ESM have a reground crank with shells and thrusts for around 75 quid plus VAT.

However, some minor wear on a crank is fine in my experience. It's always better to have perfect parts, but having driven OHV Triumphs for a few years now that's just not possible a lot of the time*. And good bearings will wear before the crank does, so if you catch it in time you'll be alright.

New oil pump etc is a good call, getting a known good engine is a lottery in my opinion. I'm sure I could dig one out that runs perfectly with no rattles or knocks, but to check just how good it is I'd be wanting to strip it most of the way down. By which point I might as well put new parts in it as it goes back together, false economy not to!

* Triumph small 4 engines pretty much need new big ends every fifth oil change! ;) Mine are daily drivers, so there's no chance to pull the engine out and rebuild/ regrind, it's a matter of drop the sump, slap on new shells, and hope for the best. Sometimes works, sometimes doesn't, but worth the 40 quid gamble for the amount of miles I do a year...

[bmcecosse]

Maybe that's the problem - oil too thin ! Try ASDA 20W50 - at only £2.74 for 4.5 litres. But seriously - it's unlikely to be just the rings - and if the rattle is the big-ends then all the above work will be required. What size engine is it - 948 or 1098 ?

[Packedup]

Too much fuel = Unburnt fuel washing down the bores and thinning the oil (and stuffing the bores and bearings if run too long like that)
Wrong oil being used anyway = More finding a way to leak or burn away
Timing chain rattle = They all do this to an extent, be sure the rattle isn't either tappets, or more seriously bearing rumble/ rattle.

Test the compression on each cylinder, drop the sump and check the state of the crank/ bearings, double check the tappets and timing, sort out the mixture. If the bearings are worn through to the copper, then they are shot, if the crank has any more than very smooth shallow wear marks (I know others disagree here, but it *can* be fine to have some wear on the journals in my experience of cars far harder on them than 1098 Minors) then new bearings won't last at all long. If the compression is poor and the tappets and head are good then you need a rebore anyway.

If you're lucky you've caught it in time, new shells and chain will do the trick. But chances are if you've been running too rich with teh wrong oil for too long, it's a major overhaul/ replacement engine time

[moggyminor16]

it 1098 and the rattle is the timing chain (normal a ser rattle ) there is no knocking at speed it still goes 70 no problem but it was off in a feild for 10 years before i got it
it over heated once so i put new head agskit on and it did not work needed new head out with the spare one and no problem just useing oil and fuel
but the valve rubbers are new and the rattle is at the timing chain
if there is no knocking then i thinking about just pistons
the oil well its the stuff thay use in the militry and the bedfords that are there are same age as my moggy thay have no problems

[moggyminor16]

comp test was 130 150 150 150 psi
and wet was 150 200 200 200
dose that help or give any idears

[Packedup]

Going by those readings dry and wet, 3 of your cylinders don't seem too bad, one has a poorly top end. They're all higher than the cold test I did on my 6 recently though!

I'd say you've got valves in need of grinding, or major valve/ seat problems on that low one. Not sure how that helps with the oil burning, but it needs looking at all the same. Could be too tight on the tappet adjustment if you're lucky, i suppose - But that'll lead to more serious problems if you keep going at 70 without doing anything about it ;)

Still not convinced on the use of synthetic oil, I've yet to come across anyone who uses it in old BMC/ BL cars for daily use.

[bmcecosse]

Since the readings improve when 'wet' it looks like the rings/bores are quite worn. And something is wrong with the valves on #1 bore. Pull the head and sort out the valves first - it will likely soldier one for a good few more miles yet.

[moggyminor16]

well thanks forthe help im going to take the lump out and swop it with my saloon thats getting dune up so it dont need the engine but will strip that one down one day over the winter so that i can put it back in cose im doing about 70 minles a day rain or shine or eithern snow

[Packedup]

Since the readings improve when 'wet' it looks like the rings/bores are quite worn. And something is wrong with the valves on #1 bore. Pull the head and sort out the valves first - it will likely soldier one for a good few more miles yet.

Quite worn, but not massively so - I'd say 150 is pretty good on a 34+ year old low compression engine myself, wish I'd got those results on most of my cars!

Agree on the valves on #1, and yeah, I reckon with that done the engine will keep going for quite some time to come

[rayofleamington]

I'd say 150 is pretty good on a 34+ year old low compression engine myself, wish I'd got those results on most of my cars!

The 1098 in my traveller only managed 110psi n the good cylinders and had been running ok until #1 cylinder gave up (30psi in #1 cylinder) so I certainly agree that 150 psi is good enough.

[moggyminor16]

thanks for that i will try the tapperts see if thay are too tight and then make sure that the movement are good on both valves but what about the blue smoke could it that the valves on number one are stuck and there for burning the oil that way who knows what lays ahead then
im shore that my saloon is the same but evrn on all 4
the car in question is a 1966 traveller that was in a feild for 10 years and its the same engine i did not take it out and striped it all i did was head off clean it all reground the vavles and new oil steems on it but it did over het some time ago and requerd a new head and gaskits so i still wunder were the oil is coming from
if you have low compression you can get piston sealer from halfords at £8 that will do all 4 pistons
moggyminor16

1962 2 door saloon
1966 traveller (bling mobile )
1967 convertible well whats left of it poor state (looking for any freee bits )

www.geocities.com/moggyminor16/moggyminors_moggys.html

[Cam]

thanks for that i will try the tapperts see if thay are too tight and then make sure that the movement are good on both valves

Good idea.

but what about the blue smoke could it that the valves on number one are stuck and there for burning the oil that way who knows what lays ahead then

probably worn valve guides if it's on start-up (or stem oil seals if you have them). If it's when running (especially under load then it's rings).

if you have low compression you can get piston sealer from halfords at £8 that will do all 4 pistons

Yike! I don't like the sound of that, or any other 'mirace cures' in bottles from car accessory shops!

[Packedup]

Yike! I don't like the sound of that, or any other 'mirace cures' in bottles from car accessory shops!

So you don't fancy paying 40 quid for a gallon of that "classic restore oil" always on Ebay then? ;) It claims to be a perfect cure for worn bearings, tappets, rings... Personally I prefer to replace the bits if they're that worn, and put normal oil in, but that's just me...

[Peetee]

classic restore oil" always on Ebay then? It claims to be a perfect cure for worn bearings

What does it do? Turn into tar on contact with metal?!

[Packedup]

I quote "Bottom end knock? Ouch!
Bottom end knock normally means a short motor or new shell bearings and maybe a new crank costing up to £3000.
If the damage is not too severe RESTORE will repair the damage for under £30 within a 100 miles of gentle driving....... read on about this unique metal treatment bringing breakthrough technology to the motoring world, and 100 : 1 savings compared to conventional repairs......."

Of course, how 30 quid (odd it's a few pence shy of 40 though) is 100 times cheaper than a regrind, new shells and a few hours labour charge to fit them I don't entirely know.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 4574495533

I also believe it's quite good if you've got any squeaky adders, or groaning cobras...