Draught Excluder Nightmare !

Post by **Peetee** » Tue Jun 17, 2003 8:22 am

If the old draught excluders were really in a bad state then the catches have probably been adjusted to compensate.
Mark their present position then unscrew them slightly and see if they will adjust outward to give a slightly larger gap.
It's important to mark them first. It's not uncommon to have a slightly distorted convertible and the problem may be elsewhere.

Post by **Cam** » Tue Jun 17, 2003 10:34 am

If the old draught excluders were really in a bad state then the catches have probably been adjusted to compensate.

Yep, I had to do that. They closed fine after just a small adjustment. Like you, mine would pop onto the 2d latch.

Post by **Willie** » Tue Jun 17, 2003 9:43 pm

The starting point should be, adjust the latches so that the door
is flush on the outside with the rest of the body,if this is not
possible,without the draught excluder in position,you may have
to fiddle with the door hinges to get it right(not easy). Once you
have reached the 'flush' position you can check the gap between
the door and the flange on to which the excluder fits. It is quite
likely that you will find a wildly varying gap around the door. Any
too close areas should be adjusted by BENDING THE FLANGE to the
correct gap. when happy,refit the exluder. If the door is too tight
then re-adjust the door latch so that the door protrudes but allows
the door to shut.......after a few months it should be possible to
move the latch further in.

Post by **Willie** » Tue Jun 17, 2003 10:01 pm

I think you will have to BASH it, try wrapping cloth around
the block of wood but have some touch up paint at the ready.
I forgot to say that the window assembly may have become
bent inwards so making the top of the door too tight if so, lower
the window and then persuade the whole lot in or out.
You should note that the standard draught excluder is rather
stiff (check any modern car, the rubber is very soft) so usually
gives trouble until it beds in.

Post by **lionellength** » Sat Jun 21, 2003 11:40 am

I know you have had a snazzy paint job and perhaps want everything to be original but i find the excluder they sell is too thick a section compared with the original. I've had the same problem as you and gave up and used modern alternatives as the rubber is much softer. You can get this from a decent car accessory shop or if you are tight like me you take it off any abandoned car! Metros are very handy for this, especially the tailgate rubbers.

Post by **brixtonmorris** » Sun Oct 26, 2003 10:06 pm

i feel that i my be a carrier of bad new. you may find that if there is no suitable adjustment to allow the doors to close, then it sujests that the door pillar has been repaired slightly in the wrong position. it may need to be cut at the bottom (where it connected to the sill) and repositioned. a quick fix is to shave some of the door catch, either the chrome part or the brass door catch, away. the door pin just below the catch, must go in the hole. a clue to the positioning of door due to missaligned door hindge pillar.

Post by **brixtonmorris** » Sun Oct 26, 2003 10:08 pm

ive just noticed its a convertable. tricky

Post by **Kevin** » Mon Oct 27, 2003 9:06 am

The reply`s just expain the problems associated with replacing the door rubbers and what to do to overcome the thickness of the new ones by adjusting the opening, this assumes no other work has been carried out, just a straight forward replacement if you can call the door rubbers straighforward.