leg replacement

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gluck
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leg replacement

Post by gluck »

Some years ago the legs of my moggie were partially replaced. the person who did it was silly enough to cut the replacement parts to avoid a part of job. So as you could imagine the leg is rotten some centimeters after the welding and i've a whole...

In Belgium we may not patch the chassis leg so this possibility is out. The only other one is the leg replacement.

So some questions...
How much would it cost?
How to do that?
Is it hard to weld? (i've a MIG but never welded)
Can i do it myself?
Other things to be said?
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Cam
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Re: leg replacement

Post by Cam »

gluck wrote:How much would it cost?
The cost of the full length leg is £42.50 + VAT + postage from ESM. The cost of fitting depends on how much the welder charges per hour, or if you are doing it yourself, probably about £5 in MIG wire and gas.
How to do that?
Measure the distance from the eyebolt hole to the crossmember, unbolt everything attached to the chassis leg, cut it out, line the new one up and weld it on! Then re-attach all the things you unbolted. Of course painting and waxoyling helps too.
Is it hard to weld? (i've a MIG but never welded)
It's a skill that's best practiced first before you undertake major structural repairs to the car. It's not 'hard', but does require practice to get strong, neat welds.
Can i do it myself?
Yes, if you have the time and inclination.
Other things to be said?
Best to roll the car on it's side to do a chassis leg. It's MUCH easier than trying to do it upside down and getting badly burnt by falling molten metal.
rayofleamington
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RE: Re: leg replacement

Post by rayofleamington »

Some years ago the legs of my moggie were partially replaced. the person who did it was silly enough to cut the replacement parts to avoid a part of job.
That's fairly normal - You can buy the repair parts just for half the chassis leg from the Minor centres. I think most of the previous repairs were done by a Minor centre advertising in the MMOC magazine, but I won't name them on here ;-)
They also cut down the crossmember repair panel (really silly, but quite common) so I had to weld it as the next part was rotted.

To reduce the risk of the car not being straight, you can remove the engine and gearbox before removing the chassis leg.
The job is quite big for a beginner! I'm surprised that you can't repair a chassis leg - A good repair should be very strong, and as long as it is not rotted by the suspension eye-bolt then there are no inner strengthening parts. (In the UK you can pass the MOT with a patch by the eye-bolt but this is usually not safe because the inner strengthening is also rotted!)
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.

Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
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June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
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Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block :(
gluck
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RE: Re: leg replacement

Post by gluck »

repairing is permitted but not to patch them so i planned to buy the repair part and weld it
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gluck
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RE: Re: leg replacement

Post by gluck »

yet a question, i have Co2 for free (from a pub) is it good to weld or i have to use Ar?
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Cam
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RE: Re: leg replacement

Post by Cam »

CO2 is fine.
gluck
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RE: Re: leg replacement

Post by gluck »

to fo it i need to roll the car on his side. So i have to remove all the liquids and the battery. Need i to remove else other? (wings, door, wheel...)?
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SR
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RE: Re: leg replacement

Post by SR »

ello gluck ,just finished the chassis legs on my car, i found it a great help with all panels to paint strip the black primer ,then in areas to be welded clean further with coarse sandpaper, this greatly reduces the risk of bad welds due too contamination, have a look at the pics on my weblink,steve
http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?folder_id=1070767
gluck
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Post by gluck »

and to roll on the side?
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rayofleamington
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Post by rayofleamington »

and to roll on the side?
You don't have to do that, but it will make it a lot easier!
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.

Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block :(
gluck
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Post by gluck »

i have only jacks to work under the car so to repair the leg, it will be a lot easier... But have i to put out other things than liquids, engine, gearbox and axle to do it? (wings, doors...) Risk i to damage then?
How to do that?
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Post by markhughz »

Regarding the CO2 gas - a lot of pub gas nowdays has some kind of chemical in it so people can't use it to weld. I didn't realise this and all my welds were terrible! I got argon and co2 mix and it made a huge difference but maybe you CO2 bottle won't have that chemical - try it and see.
Cam
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Post by Cam »

gluck wrote:i have only jacks to work under the car so to repair the leg, it will be a lot easier... But have i to put out other things than liquids, engine, gearbox and axle to do it? (wings, doors...) Risk i to damage then?
How to do that?
You don't have to remove doors, wings, wheels etc, just things that will spill / spoil if tipped up like the battery, oil, etc. Oh and you'll have to seal the brake master cylinder otherwise the fluid will probably leak out of the breather hole on the cap. But (if I remember) I think Ray did not seal his and had no problems?
gluck
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Post by gluck »

and i don't risk to brake some parts?
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Cam
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Post by Cam »

Depends on how you roll it! But if you take the doors and wings off then you'll just damage the B-post or roof gutter instead of you roll it badly. If you use a proper roll-over frame then you should be OK.

How are you planning to roll it?
gluck
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Post by gluck »

i don't know at the moment so i'm getting information. The books don't speak a lot about the way to do it...
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simmitc
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Post by simmitc »

Often the "roll onto side" refers to the use of a special ji the attaches to the car and keeps it suspended off the ground. These jogs are good, but quite expensive to buy for a single operation, and also require storage.

The cars can be rolled with suitable preparation. For example, flat level ground, an old mattress on the ground, and plenty of padding. You alos need some people to help, don't try it on your own. With enough people you can almost lift the car onto its side. You''' also need help to bring it back down again. I would remove mirrors before tipping over, and also if appropriate petrol filler and anything else that "sticks out".

As to the repair, before removing the old leg, make up a frame from some old angle iron or dexion so that it fits snugly between the existing legs. You can then use this as a guide when fitting the new leg to ensure that everything is parallel.
gluck
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Post by gluck »

i'm not going o use the special jig as i have to buy it and to import it in Belgium so it would be a lot too expensive for me. I'll use the second way
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Cam
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Post by Cam »

Be VERY careful using the second way. I personally would not recommend it as it's dangerous and you COULD break, bend and scratch your car. I was assuming you were going to use a jig to roll it.
gluck
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Post by gluck »

Scratch it is not a problem as the next work is the paintjob.

Did someone use this way? Is everyone ok with Cam or has somebody advise to do it carrefully?
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