Help with fitting LED indicator bulbs

[KevinB]

I bought some LED bulbs, but as we know, they don't work with the original flasher unit. They don't flash.

So I have got this new flasher which is supposed to work with LEDs.

New flasher unit

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Can you please help with how to connect this in? The B, E and L.
I have also asked the seller.

Per the old wiring diagram, I have currently a green power wire, a green/brown to the indicator bulbs and a light green to the switch warning light.

Here's my current flasher unit.

Current flasher unit

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PS Thanks to who brought back the message board tonight.

PPS I have my Morris back after the welding and brake work, with a fresh MOT.

[jaekl]

Initial thoughts would be B is positive power input and E is negative earth for the flasher itself. Then L is for the lights. I'd suspect that the switch indicator light will need two inputs with diodes on each. The supplier should confirm.

[svenedin]

I'm not particularly inspired by the Chingrish on your flasher unit......IF it follows normal convention then

B is battery so that is the plain dark green wire

L is lamps so that is the green with brown trace wire

E is presumably earth so there is no connection for the pilot lamp on the indicator stalk (light green wire)

Conclusion: the unit is not suitable as for the MoT test there must be a tell-tale lamp for the indicators. It is also only suitable for negative earth it appears.

Get one of these which I can personally vouch for. They work perfectly. Note: must be connected to earth which you can do to the mounting bolt. The bracket will need the hole enlarged with a rat's tail file. Purchase the correct polarity unit as they are not interchangeable.

https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/produc ... -p-2-3-pin

Stephen

[KevinB]

Thank you jaekl and Stephen.

I was not encouraged by the language on it either! I shall have a play with it and try to understand. Hopefully without doing any damage to the car. And then almost certainly follow your advice Stephen.

[moggiethouable]

" About dodges three times"
Anyone fluent in Chinglish ?

[KevinB]

Quick update:
The chinglish flasher unit is working fine with my new LED bulbs, using the B E L wiring as said above. BUT as Stephen pointed out, there's no feed for the tell-tale interior light.
I don't quite know why this can't come from the L light feed too (?), but that would be clumsy so I will order one of his suggested units.

Thanks all for the help.

[svenedin]

Quick update:
The chinglish flasher unit is working fine with my new LED bulbs, using the B E L wiring as said above. BUT as Stephen pointed out, there's no feed for the tell-tale interior light.
I don't quite know why this can't come from the L light feed too (?), but that would be clumsy so I will order one of his suggested units.

Thanks all for the help.

Basically what you have there is a 2 pin flasher that needs an earth connection, not what you need which is a 3 pin flasher. It is actually possible to use a 2 pin flasher AND have the indicator stalk pilot lamp working but it is not straightforward. To make it work you have do some wiring behind the dashboard and use diode leads so that you take the flashed output for the indicator bulbs and feed it to the pilot lamp as well. The diode leads are needed or otherwise you end up with crossover (indicators on both side of the car flashing). It just isn't worth the bother!

If you are NEGATIVE earth you can also use a flasher unit like this (but it does not make a tick tock sound): https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/ ... asher-unit

This is the better option: https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/produc ... 95d4&_ss=r

I also have LED indicator bulbs but I am original positive earth. I did not want a modern flasher unit visible on the bulkhead so I sited the modern flasher unit under the dashboard and left the original flasher can on the bulkhead. This has the advantage that the modern LED flasher unit is nearer the driver and clearly audible. These units can also flash incandescent bulbs so you can go back to original bulbs if you want to or in an urgent situation replace a blown bulb with an easily purchased incandescent bulb if you don't happen to have an LED bulb at hand.

Stephen

[mike1864]

And if drawing current off the L terminal is the trigger for making the thing deliver pulsed current, then connecting a pilot bulb (or LED) there would draw just such current. So it would flash all the time? As Stephen says, you need diodes downstream of the indicator switch.

[KevinB]

Thank you both - I'm beginning to understand better.

I'm not going to bother with diodes etc indeed, Stephen! I shall order your better option. I am negative earth and have read your thread about moving the flasher unit.

Hazards are the next project for me, once I've got the normal indicators on LEDs.

[svenedin]

Thank you both - I'm beginning to understand better.

I'm not going to bother with diodes etc indeed, Stephen! I shall order your better option. I am negative earth and have read your thread about moving the flasher unit.

Hazards are the next project for me, once I've got the normal indicators on LEDs.

You're welcome. Hazards are really useful. I couldn't be without them now. As I drive my car a lot I have had the misfortunate to break down a few times (same issue all sorted now). Without the hazards these breakdowns could have been rather dangerous.

Stephen

[mike1864]

In addition to having fitted hazards (vital, as Stephen says), I keep an internally batteried beacon in the car.
Just in case the cause of the breakdown is a flat battery, rather than the (usual!) coil.
My particular model doubles up as a window breaker and seatbelt slasher. And torch!

[KevinB]

Thanks Mike. I have one of those magnetic beacons. (It doesn't do the slashing however!)
And thanks again Stephen.

This board is a rather useful place to be!