Wiper motor

[TOMO28B]

Hi all,I recently sent in a question with regards to the wiper motor cable being jammed in the bundy cable,no amount of violence would shift it and luckily I managed to get hold of the complete cable and bundy for the car. Now I need help as the motor ,wipers etc are working great,the only thing is the wipers won't park and as soon as you switch them off they stop dead and carry on when back on. I know it's got something to do with the 'hat' on top of the motor and the little tang inside it but can anyone tell me the actual set up as it's a bit annoying having to time the sweep to switch the wipers off. Thanks buddies

[myoldjalopy]

What year is your car? Earlier models do not have self-parking wipers....not sure which year the change was though.

[ManyMinors]

All Minor 1000s had a self park. If you've had the lid off the motor, you need to adjust the self park by loosening the top and rotating the circular cover until the wipers park in the desired position.

[svenedin]

I am out at the moment. You should see a copper contact inside the wiper motor gearbox area. This should contact the domed lid on the inside. It may be broken, absent, dirty. Also, assuming all intact, the motor requires 3 functioning electrical connections. Earth, switched earth, permanent live.

Stephen

[59Elva]

Did you replace the motor as well as the cable and tubes? Did you try heat and a good penetrating oil on the old tube? Seems like it has to be rust or hardened grease. Both should respond to Kroil or PB Blaster and some gentle heating. I would try twisting as well.

[TOMO28B]

Yes motor,inner cable and bundy outer cable all good now

[svenedin]

Here you can see the self-parking contact. This enables the motor to run on after the dashboard switch has been switched off until the wipers reach the parked position.

Stephen

IMG_1380.jpeg (2.44 MiB) Viewed 293 times

[TOMO28B]

Thanks for that,mine looks nothing like the photo. The old knackered motor looks exactly the same,but new motor has a lot smaller tang and more on the left hand side. I'll take the old tang off the old motor and see if that works. Many thanks though that answers a big problem for me. Cheers

[svenedin]

Is the replacement motor a Lucas DR3a like the original?

The copper self park contact makes contact with an electrical track in the cap. That track in the cap is not continuous; there is a gap. The motor runs on until the contact runs up to the gap and it then stops (parks).

Stephen

[TOMO28B]

Yes,the new(ISH) motor is the same,but I think the last owner has had a play with it as it's not on the top like the photo and maybe they have broke it. Luckily my old one looks exactly the same as photo so I will swap them over. Many thanks for the help as I was literally pulling what's left of my hair out (and there's not much if that) trying to think what the problem was. I know the wiring is correct as one of the positive wires has a raised area on the spade to fit into a recess on the motor and the other a flat spade. The motor works well now as I stated the inner cable and bundy outer sleeve has been changed with newer wheel boxes fitted,it just won't park at the moment. Thanks again