Retronics Hazard Light Switch Puzzle

[rh8369]

Ive begun installing the Retronics switch in my 1969 Morris Minor. I do use the major roads in France so a hazard upgrade seemed sensible. The hazards work perfectly when the switch is pulled but when the hazard switch is off and I indicate left or right all 4 indicators flash and for the love of all things technical I can't figure out why.

I have an 8 pin unit and terminals are wired as follows;
T1: Wired to always on fuse connection (2A) from Fuse Box to pull switch and out to T1
T2, Earth
T3, Unused
T4, Unused
T5, Wired to always on fuse connection (10A) from Fuse Box (Actually a double jumper with T1's fused connection
T6, Unused
T7, Left Hand Indicator feed (Green & White) in 4 way bullet connector joint with feeds out to indicators and stalk feed link
T8, Right Hand Indicator feed (Green & Red) in 4 way bullet connector joint with feeds out to indicators and stalk feed link

The pull switch is earthed too.

The flasher unit is original, the bulbs aren’t LED.

If I remove the T7 & T8 feeds the indicators work normally but of course the hazards don't .... can anyone help me save what little hair I have left please?! I can’t figure out what’s back feeding the indicators.

[Bill_qaz]

Can you post a diagram, does it use a separate flasher can for the hazards? Some 4 ways switch of indicators to prevent cross over.
Have a look at previous post.
viewtopic.php?p=721772&hilit=Hazard+lights#p721772

[rh8369]

Hi Bill, instructions and diagram attached. Thé Retronics RHLM module has a flasher built into the box.

[geoberni]

First Question, is your car Positive or Negative Earth?

According to your first post a few months ago, it appears it's Neg Earth

Afternoon all, I know gauges can be contentious but I’d like to add a water temp, oil pressure and ammeter to my 1969 1098 -Earth, Dynamo installed Convertible. The car lives in France and summer temps are +40C so the water temperature is to tell me the cars not cooking before it cooks. I’ve managed to get a lovely old Smith’s 3 way gauge rebuilt and whilst I’m happy with the feeds for the water temp via sensor and voltage regulator, the oil pressure via a t-piece etc in the block and a braided pipe to the gauge the ammeter is puzzling me. Ideally is there a easy way to wire this (I’m also thinking of fusing the inbound feed) to the ammeter and back again so that if the ammeter fails for any reason the car is still startable? I’ve got suitably rated cable and lugs and grommet plugs and insulation for the cable but can anyone suggest a way of wiring it as I mentioned above? Thanks in advance. I live in constant fear of my wife finding out how much I paid for the Minor and my Mk2 Mini … versus what I said I paid …. Richard

Please post an image of the full instruction page and/or give us the kit model name as there are several different instruction documents on the website.
How old is the kit, the one they sell now is 'V2'...

[Bill_qaz]

With hazards and indicators and ign off, (just so no power) check for continuity pins 7 and 8 on the unit, if so unit is faulty.
Are you connections from 7&8 definitely after the indicator switch, output side as per the instructions?

[rh8369]

Hi, Negative earth. I’ve taken the output from 7&8 into the double bullet connector for the lights which has the two red and green wires in one and the two white and green wires in another in the dash behind the drivers glovebox. Each also has the feed from the indicator stalk in each so in effect a full double bullet connector.

[geoberni]

Hi, Negative earth. I’ve taken the output from 7&8 into the double bullet connector for the lights which has the two red and green wires in one and the two white and green wires in another in the dash behind the drivers glovebox. Each also has the feed from the indicator stalk in each so in effect a full double bullet connector.

I asked the additional questions because the RHLM instructions on the website are not the same as the ones you have...

https://retronicsonline.com/wp-content/ ... ctions.pdf

RHLM.JPG (122.86 KiB) Viewed 1107 times

[rh8369]

I have the version 2 kit and was following the instructions in the box that came with it. I’ll take a look this afternoon .. if it’s only swapping ports around I’ll be happy! Thanks

[geoberni]

I have the version 2 kit and was following the instructions in the box that came with it. I’ll take a look this afternoon .. if it’s only swapping ports around I’ll be happy! Thanks

it seems very strange that both Pos and Neg Earth versions on the website instructions have outputs from 5 & 6, but your instructions has the outputs from 7 & 8.

If they've totally changed the internal terminal layout, you might have damaged something internally.

[rh8369]

Ive asked Retronics too

[rh8369]

Fixed! The Retronics instructions in the box were incorrect and terminals 5&6 not 7&8 were needed to supply the flashers independent of the stalk. I rewired the unit to provide power to T8 and hey presto everything is just fine. Phew! Thanks for all your comments and queries ans thankfully the unit wasn’t fused after following the wrong (boxed) instructions. I’ll tape it all up securely tomorrow and put the glovebox liner back in!

[geoberni]

That's a ridiculous situation to arise. How does a 'wrong drawing' even exist, let along get into the packaging.
I think they should compensate you for the time and effort wasted resolving the matter... I'll let you keep my percentage cut

[Bill_qaz]

I'm glad you sorted it damage free. As Berni stated, it is really bad to issue the wrong instructions with the product. Luckily, there is no damage to your car.

[rh8369]

Thanks both! I’m awaiting Retronics call back or email but yes I’m
Thankful it hasn’t damaged the unit and once again the MMOC experts have come to the rescue!

[svenedin]

Glad it's sorted. Andy Winters at Retronics is very helpful. Retronics also make an expensive but very robust condenser for the distributor.

Stephen