Engine steady

[Grovervan]

Hi everyone, just fitted an engine steady on my 63 van , however I had to leave the washer out on the stud so as to leave enough thread to secure the bracket. Is this acceptable and water tight? I have posted two photos one with washer and one with out.
Would appreciate any advice, help. John.

[svenedin]

Not that it really matters but you have fitted the bracket upside down. There is a special stud for the engine steady bracket that is longer than the others. Is that stud longer than the others or the same length? The longer stud for the bracket is a longer version of the short studs, not as long as the long studs.

Stephen

[Grovervan]

Thanks, it’s the same length as the others.
Can stud be extracted with cylinder head on?

[svenedin]

Thanks, it’s the same length as the others.
Can stud be extracted with cylinder head on?

Yes it can if there is enough thread to use the two nuts locked together technique (or two half-nuts) but I would drain the coolant below the level of the cylinder head before doing this. The special long version of the short stud is rather difficult to find. It is listed as 51K244 or 51K254. I did find one a few years ago but I really can't remember where from. I think you can use a short A+ plus cylinder head stead which is just a bit longer than the short pre-A+ stud and so is perfect for the bracket. This may be what I did actually but I would have to look tomorrow.


Stephen

[Grovervan]

Thanks for your help Stephen.
Much appreciated. John.

[philthehill]

When the engine steady was incorporated a longer stud Pt No: 51K244 or 51K254 was used for the bracket on the head. Over the years these studs became displaced and a normal head stud Pt No: 51K256 was used.
As regards the fitment of the nut on the stud without the washer - the bracket can be considered as the washer. You seem to have sufficient thread engagement between the stud and head nut so I consider the stud to nut contact to be sufficient and requires no more concern. Just leave as is and enjoy.
Whether the steady bracket is upside down or not depends upon the fitment. The steady bar should be fitted so as to be level with no deflection of the rubber bushes at either end. Therefore the head bracket can be fitted either way up with the proviso that the bar is level with no deflection of the rubbers. There is no correct way up or down no matter what is shown in the wksp manual. The rubbers at the end of your bar appear to be perfect without distortion. The parts list I have AKD559 shows the bracket fitted as per your photo. Again I consider it all to be ok and fit for use. In my opinion no further action required.
Regarding engine steadies - I consider Mr Grumpy's engine steady conversion a good investment and much better than the after thought steady fitted by BMC.
Phil

[svenedin]

I just popped out to look. I have used a long stud not the special length longer version of the short stud. In my case note the bracket is the other way up (I have just seen Phil's comments above). This is a high tensile stud with flanged nut (no washer).

This stud is suitable for the steady bracket. It is not a special high-tensile stud. https://www.minispares.com/tam1617-head ... front-stud

Stephen

IMG_3621.jpeg (1.79 MiB) Viewed 1505 times

[Grovervan]

Hi, Phil and Stephen, thanks for your knowledge and experience. I have ordered a longer stud from ESM but for now will give the van a run out tomorrow and check performance. Many thanks John.
The photo was a great help.

[les]

I’m wondering why I can’t see the pictures, they usually appear when one opens the post. Strange.

Hi everyone, just fitted an engine steady on my 63 van , however I had to leave the washer out on the stud so as to leave enough thread to secure the bracket. Is this acceptable and water tight? I have posted two photos one with washer and one with out.
Would appreciate any advice, help. John.

[Bill_qaz]

I've just opened the post and I can see a picture on Stephens post is that the one you mean?

Screenshot_20260805-234207_Samsung Browser.jpg (367.9 KiB) Viewed 1344 times

[Bill_qaz]

As in Phils reply mine is a normal nut with no washer on the bracket. With a stud much shorter than the one in Stephens pic.
I've not had any issues.

20250905_141123.jpg (1.31 MiB) Viewed 1331 times

Its also the grumpy version mentioned by Phil that goes over to the front shock area to attach.

20250905_141012.jpg (1.92 MiB) Viewed 1309 times

[geoberni]

See my post from 2023.... viewtopic.php?t=76531

Exact same situation, I've left it as is.

[Bill_qaz]

See my post from 2023.... viewtopic.php?t=76531

Exact same situation, I've left it as is.

Yes we discussed in previous post,forgotten that one
Proves what goes around comes around Berni

[les]

Yes, thanks Bill.

[svenedin]

Now I'm not so tired and it's another day, I remember why the engine steady stud on my engine is rather long. When the engine was rebuilt (not by me) it was fitted with high tensile studs but the rebuilder used a standard short stud for the engine steady stud. This was not long enough for the steady bracket and the nut (not enough thread) so I replaced it with a long high-tensile stud. The longer short special engine steady position stud was never available in the high tensile variant as far as I know.

Stephen

[Sleeper]

A length of stainless screwed rod , no need to un-tension the head stud, and easily removeable ( slotted brackets )

engine steady.jpg (197.67 KiB) Viewed 839 times

John ;-)

P.S Talking about sump magnets.... on the oil filter...

[philthehill]

Sleeper
Sorry to be critical - but above is a good example of by not having the rod level results in the distortion of the cup washers/rubbers at the body end of the steady bar. If as it looks the cup is touching the body steady bracket it negates the need for fitting the rubber bush.
It does not help that the engine steady body bracket is not angled so as to suit the rod. The Mr Grumpy's engine steady body bracket is angled to align with the rod.
With the fully threaded rod there is no need for the hole(s) in the brackets to be slotted. Undoing and removing the nuts allows the rod to be pulled out. I have the threaded rod fitted to the engine steady on my Minor and can change the cup rubbers without undoing the brackets at either end. In fact I cannot remove the bracket at the body end of the steady bar as it is welded to the upper face of the cross member.

engine steady bar.jpeg (87.97 KiB) Viewed 775 times

Phil

[Bill_qaz]

Also in your picture sleeper you have the bracket held to the cylinder head stud by a separate nyloc nut with the cylinder head nut under the bracket, so removal doesn’t effect the head nut, so why slot the bracket? It also raised the bracket so angling the rod as Phil comments.

[Sleeper]

Slotting the bracket makes it easier to remove , just have to loosen the nuts, not remove them completely , the rod is not horizontal but the brackets have been angled to sit at 90 degrees to the rod.. Sorry but there is no metal to metal contact..
The cylinder head bracket is that way to allow better access to the nuts/rubbers.

John ;-)