Some pics of Nell’s mods!

[mrs.smith2012]

As requested, here are a few pics of Nell to show her ‘tweaks’

She’s had her 948 engine replaced with a 1275 and gearbox is a 1098 (out of a Morris vanI believe).
She has been converted to negative earth and also has indicators, reverse light (with sound), fog lights, electric cut off (with a fob) and she alarms when you open the drivers door with lights on (handy). Also you can’t see on pics but she has a knob under the dash on the passenger side which turns the fuel pump on and off.

I think that’s it… still trying to figure it all out!

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[mike1864]

Thank you for the picture; lots to talk about here! (Not problems ).
Not a concern for the OP but....
For anyone fitting such a cut-off switch in the feed to the petrol pump, I reckon it's better for this to be a changeover (3 terminal) version. Then its NC (normally closed) terminal can be wired to a small buzzer. If not switched, this warns you that the car will stop in traffic a few hundred yards down the road, when the float chamber runs out . And the switch needs to be beefy to take the pump's current. Alternatively use a small, single pole, switch to drive a changeover relay whose NC terminal drives the buzzer. Choosing a switch operated by a removeable key adds another level of security.

[mrs.smith2012]

Thank you for the picture; lots to talk about here! (Not problems ).
Not a concern for the OP but....
For anyone fitting such a cut-off switch in the feed to the petrol pump, I reckon it's better for this to be a changeover (3 terminal) version. Then its NC (normally closed) terminal can be wired to a small buzzer. If not switched, this warns you that the car will stop in traffic a few hundred yards down the road, when the float chamber runs out . And the switch needs to be beefy to take the pump's current. Alternatively use a small, single pole, switch to drive a changeover relay whose NC terminal drives the buzzer. Choosing a switch operated by a removeable key adds another level of security.

You’ve completely lost me Do I need to do anything?

[mike1864]

Not really. Unless your forgetting to work the switch often leaves you dangerously stalled up the road. If the car simply doesn't start, the previous owner (PO) must have wired it into the ignition circuit; which is fine. So this "not starting" will of course remind you to throw the switch. No further action or work needed.
It was just that you mentioned a cut-off switch, and it prompted my general thoughts (with an electronics degree ) on the subject of installing them.

[mrs.smith2012]

Not really. Unless your forgetting to work the switch often leaves you dangerously stalled up the road. If the car simply doesn't start, the previous owner (PO) must have wired it into the ignition circuit; which is fine. So this "not starting" will of course remind you to throw the switch. No further action or work needed.
It was just that you mentioned a cut-off switch, and it prompted my general thoughts (with an electronics degree ) on the subject of installing them.

Yes I think this is what he did, the car will not start at all without first activating the fob… although the PO did reassure me that if the switch was to be accidentally pressed off while driving the engine won’t stop! Unlikely that will happen but good to know!

[ndevans]

Brake servo fitted (rear LH side of engine bay) but no sign of an underbonnet brake reservoir. Not totally essential, but much more convenient for brake fluid level monitoring & topping up. Unless it's out of sight in the photo?

[geoberni]

Brake servo fitted (rear LH side of engine bay) but no sign of an underbonnet brake reservoir. Not totally essential, but much more convenient for brake fluid level monitoring & topping up. Unless it's out of sight in the photo?

I don't recollect any mention of the car having Disc Brakes fitted; there is absolutely no reason to consider a remote reservoir just for having a Servo fitted.

From the looks of it, the Servo is not ideally orientated, but it's better than most so not worth disturbing it.
The Air Valve is supposed to be below the horizontal, it facilitate easier bleeding of the system.
.

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[mrs.smith2012]

I can confirm she’s had brake servos fitted but she still has her original drum brakes. So far I find her braking to be quite adequate as long as I remember to give myself plenty of room!

[panky]

I'm intrigued by the expansion tank in front of the air filter - what's that connected to.
Also it looks like the 1275 engine has the original 1098 head fitted, you can see the heater take off is straight across but a 12G940 head off a 1275 engine has the take off at an angle. Won't cause any issues but it won't produces much power as the matching head.

[mrs.smith2012]

I'm intrigued by the expansion tank in front of the air filter - what's that connected to.
Also it looks like the 1275 engine has the original 1098 head fitted, you can see the heater take off is straight across but a 12G940 head off a 1275 engine has the take off at an angle. Won't cause any issues but it won't produces much power as the matching head.

Oh really I wasn’t aware of that… interesting! Perhaps something I can address down the line? The engine swap was done quite some years back, she had the 1275 in her when the PO purchased her. I couldn’t even tell you what car the engine came out of.
Do you mean that yellow tank thing with the blue lid?

[ndevans]

If it runs well enough, and you're happy with it, I wouldn't worry about the head. It's not optimal for a 1275, but it'll work perfectly well.

[panky]

Yes that's the one. It looks like a radiator expansion tank but I can't see what it's connected to. The cylinder head on your engine is fine so don't concern yourself. If, however, in the future you want to improve the performance then fitting a matching head will pep things up a bit
Broom broom

[mrs.smith2012]

I’m happy with performance for now… she’s quite ‘forward’
But definitely something to keep in mind!
I’ll be under the hood at the weekend doing my weekly checks so I’ll try and get some better pics of that bit, as I don’t know what it connects to either!

[MMT1968]

You may have a look at my other post: 1275 head, fully ported.

That would fit your 1275 engine well and additionally improve the power output significantly…

You can identify a 12G940 head by the position of the heater valve but by the position of the mounting bolts of the thermostate housing. The latter are in line withe the head bolts in case of a 1275 head, in case of a 1098 head these bolts are at an angle.
The pic shows a 12G940 head.

Chris

[Bill_qaz]

Hope you are enjoying your moggy.
If your remote battery isolator, the black box above your battery, ever fails. I'v posted a picture for you below. If you connect the earth strap to the black box, directly back to the negative post of the battery, it will bypass the remote unit. You could do this by unbolting from the black box and putting direct to the battery or temporarily connecting with a jump start cable.
Also in your picture the positive battery post is close to the battery holding clamp( arrowed on pic) if they touch it will cause a major short circuit. It looks to have some insulation, hard to tell in picture, but make sure it has some insulation, an old piece of hose, split and put over the battery holding bar for example. Also check the battery holding clamp is tight so it doesn't move and touch the battery post.

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Hope you find this helpful

[mrs.smith2012]

You may have a look at my other post: 1275 head, fully ported.

That would fit your 1275 engine well and additionally improve the power output significantly…

You can identify a 12G940 head by the position of the heater valve but by the position of the mounting bolts of the thermostate housing. The latter are in line withe the head bolts in case of a 1275 head, in case of a 1098 head these bolts are at an angle.
The pic shows a 12G940 head.

Chris

I did spot that and was tempted…. But honestly I have a few other costs to meet before I start upgrading! This will probably be something I’ll get onto eventually… but not yet

[mrs.smith2012]

Hope you are enjoying your moggy.
If your remote battery isolator, the black box above your battery, ever fails. I'v posted a picture for you below. If you connect the earth strap to the black box, directly back to the negative post of the battery, it will bypass the remote unit. You could do this by unbolting from the black box and putting direct to the battery or temporarily connecting with a jump start cable.
Also in your picture the positive battery post is close to the battery holding clamp( arrowed on pic) if they touch it will cause a major short circuit. It looks to have some insulation, hard to tell in picture, but make sure it has some insulation, an old piece of hose, split and put over the battery holding bar for example. Also check the battery holding clamp is tight so it doesn't move and touch the battery post.
IMG_8947.jpg

Hope you find this helpful

That’s a huge help thank you!

I’ll show this to a couple of my classic car buddies, perhaps they can help me with this (scared to do anything all by myself right now but I’ll learn with guidance )

[MMT1968]

„I did spot that and was tempted…. But honestly I have a few other costs to meet before I start upgrading! This will probably be something I’ll get onto eventually… but not yet“

Good idea to keep funds together. But keep in mind those heads are not so easy to get and buying a new ported head is an expensive task. So this one obtainable for half the price from new is a rare opportunity.

Chris

[les]

It’s worth mentioning, the more power you get from an engine the more you have to be aware of things like upgrading brakes etc, so the expense goes on. I’m assuming mrs.smith is not wanting a road burner, just a usable car !

[mrs.smith2012]

You’ve hit the nail on the head there Les, my priority with Nell right now, particularly as she is my first classic, is to just keep her well maintained and running.
Perhaps later down the line I’ll think about upgrades… but I’m more than happy with my little mog for now! I think, if I gave her any more go I might be a little bit lethal