eezibleed
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stuffedpike20
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eezibleed
I have bought an Eezibleed to help me change the brake fluid.
I have got a spare vented master cylinder cap to butcher. How do I block the hole, and add a spout for the pipe?
Could anyone who has done this let me know how to go about it please.
And which is the best Dot4 fluid to use?
Thanks
John
I have got a spare vented master cylinder cap to butcher. How do I block the hole, and add a spout for the pipe?
Could anyone who has done this let me know how to go about it please.
And which is the best Dot4 fluid to use?
Thanks
John
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philthehill
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Re: eezibleed
Your best bet is to buy a non vented cap from ESM and fit a pipe push on union into the top.
- Bill_qaz
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Re: eezibleed
Could you not drill and tap the hole to fit a suitable adapter?
Possibly use a bleed nipple.
Possibly use a bleed nipple.
Regards Bill
- svenedin
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Re: eezibleed
I covered this in an old thread but it was not a thread dedicated to this specifically.
You can do this the nice way or the functional bodge way.
The functional bodge way is to drill one of your spare vented caps to the nearest size to the brass threaded adapter in the Eezibleed kit. Then fix the adapter in the cap with epoxy glue and at the same time block the vent hole off with epoxy.
The better way is to start with a non-vented master cylinder cap (ESM). Drill the cap with a 8.75mm drill bit and then tap 1/8" x 28 BSP. Then you can screw the brass Eezibleed adapter straight in to the cap. Probably best to use a bit of thread sealant.
Stephen
You can do this the nice way or the functional bodge way.
The functional bodge way is to drill one of your spare vented caps to the nearest size to the brass threaded adapter in the Eezibleed kit. Then fix the adapter in the cap with epoxy glue and at the same time block the vent hole off with epoxy.
The better way is to start with a non-vented master cylinder cap (ESM). Drill the cap with a 8.75mm drill bit and then tap 1/8" x 28 BSP. Then you can screw the brass Eezibleed adapter straight in to the cap. Probably best to use a bit of thread sealant.
Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen
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stuffedpike20
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Re: eezibleed
Thanks folks.
Re: eezibleed
Glad I spotted this, as I have an Eezibleed and a couple of spare ventilated and non-ventilated caps kicking around! 
Maurice, E. Kent
(1970 Traveller)
(1970 Traveller)
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stuffedpike20
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Re: eezibleed
And which brake fluid do people consider the best?
- svenedin
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Re: eezibleed
All brake fluids have to meet stringent requirements whether Dot 4 or Dot 5 so use whichever you want (subject of course to using the correct type for your system)
Stephen
Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen
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stuffedpike20
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Re: eezibleed
I used to use Wilko. My local garage was not impressed. 
- svenedin
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Re: eezibleed
They all have to meet minimum standards but some have lower viscosity and higher boiling points for use in harsh conditions. Really not something a Morris Minor would encounter in normal road driving. Comma is what I used before I switched to Dot 5.
Far more important than the brand is to regularly change the brake fluid. If the Dot 4 brake fluid has 8% water in it, the boiling point drops to just over 100 C. In those circumstances, the brake fluid could boil easily under heavy sustained braking. If the brake fluid boils you're in serious trouble! It happened to me many years ago and we only escaped an accident with brutal engine braking and the handbrake.
Stephen
Far more important than the brand is to regularly change the brake fluid. If the Dot 4 brake fluid has 8% water in it, the boiling point drops to just over 100 C. In those circumstances, the brake fluid could boil easily under heavy sustained braking. If the brake fluid boils you're in serious trouble! It happened to me many years ago and we only escaped an accident with brutal engine braking and the handbrake.
Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen
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stuffedpike20
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Re: eezibleed
Thanks.
Yes it's been a year or two since I changed mine.
Yes it's been a year or two since I changed mine.
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Blaketon
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Re: eezibleed
I like Automec silicon, as it's not damaging to paint.
- svenedin
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Re: eezibleed
That’s what I use too. It’s also a delightful shade of violet-purple!
Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen
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stuffedpike20
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Re: eezibleed
Got my Eezibleed yesterday...got an unvented cap from ebay...found the correct tap.....but have not got the right drill bit. But I will sort it.
Is there a reason that you drilled your hole off centre?
- svenedin
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Re: eezibleed
No that’s just me being incompetent.stuffedpike20 wrote: ↑Tue Nov 04, 2025 6:38 amGot my Eezibleed yesterday...got an unvented cap from ebay...found the correct tap.....but have not got the right drill bit. But I will sort it.
Is there a reason that you drilled your hole off centre?
Remember you need a fibre washer for the seal between cap and master cylinder (also a little fibre washer under the eezibleed to cap connection). Before adapting the MC cap just check it threads nicely into the MC as there was a bad batch a while ago.
Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen
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myoldjalopy
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Re: eezibleed
It sounds like a good, easy system to use - but after bleeding, how do you deal with the tube from the reservoir bottle to the MC, which will still be full of fluid ? When you unscrew the cap, won't the fluid in the tube all spill out over the MC, which will also be left full to over-brimming?
- svenedin
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Re: eezibleed
No the MC fluid level seems to stay exactly as it was to start with so it is best to top it up to the correct level before starting. Presumably the air gap between fluid level and MC cap is maintained. Yes there is fluid in the eezibleed tube but before disconnecting the connection to MC the tyre connection is removed so there is no pressure. As to fluid in the tube spilling you just have to be reasonably quick and invert the tube and the fluid drains back into the plastic eezibleed bottle. As I use Silicone fluid I can be slightly careless with the fluid as it doesn't strip paint.myoldjalopy wrote: ↑Tue Nov 04, 2025 8:21 am It sounds like a good, easy system to use - but after bleeding, how do you deal with the tube from the reservoir bottle to the MC, which will still be full of fluid ? When you unscrew the cap, won't the fluid in the tube all spill out over the MC, which will also be left full to over-brimming?
Stephen
1969 1098cc Convertible “Xavier” which I have owned since 1989.
Stephen
Stephen
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myoldjalopy
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Re: eezibleed
Thanks. I must try this next time. Last time the MC failed when pumping the pedal in the old, time-honoured way 
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stuffedpike20
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Re: eezibleed
I went to the motor factor today and asked for some 'old fashioned dot4'.
He looked closely at a couple of containers and then sold me some Febi brake fluid. None of the writing on the bottle is English.
He assumed it would be ok because it did not say 'synthetic'.
Will it be ok? Not broken the seal yet so I don't know what colour it is.
Thanks
He looked closely at a couple of containers and then sold me some Febi brake fluid. None of the writing on the bottle is English.
He assumed it would be ok because it did not say 'synthetic'.
Will it be ok? Not broken the seal yet so I don't know what colour it is.
Thanks
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stuffedpike20
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Re: eezibleed
Sorry Stephen, I should have copied you in on my last question above. I am hoping to do the job today....so what do you think?svenedin wrote: ↑Tue Nov 04, 2025 8:34 amNo the MC fluid level seems to stay exactly as it was to start with so it is best to top it up to the correct level before starting. Presumably the air gap between fluid level and MC cap is maintained. Yes there is fluid in the eezibleed tube but before disconnecting the connection to MC the tyre connection is removed so there is no pressure. As to fluid in the tube spilling you just have to be reasonably quick and invert the tube and the fluid drains back into the plastic eezibleed bottle. As I use Silicone fluid I can be slightly careless with the fluid as it doesn't strip paint.myoldjalopy wrote: ↑Tue Nov 04, 2025 8:21 am It sounds like a good, easy system to use - but after bleeding, how do you deal with the tube from the reservoir bottle to the MC, which will still be full of fluid ? When you unscrew the cap, won't the fluid in the tube all spill out over the MC, which will also be left full to over-brimming?
Stephen
Thanks.